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Lady Violette

The Romantic Lifestyle

Archive for the ‘Manton de Manila’ Category

Christian Dior on Scarves in 1951 “Scarves can give the final touch to your frock…”

Thursday, March 10th, 2011

Vintage Fleurs-de-Lis Silk Scarf

Today I was lucky to make two wonderful finds while browsing in a thrift store ~ a never worn pure silk vintage scarf with hand rolled hems and original tags still attached and a pretty little hardback book titled “The Little Dictionary of Fashion” by Christian Dior! It was written in 1951, published by Abrams, is full of good, still  pertinent advice, loaded with charm and fun to read. Since I have been writing about scarves I went right to the S section to find out what Christian Dior had to say. French women are famous for their ability to style and wear scarves with tremendous flair. In 1951 CD said,

“In many cases a scarf gives a final touch to a frock. But you have to experiment and try many ways of wearing a scarf before you find the way that suits you best. It is a very personal matter; and what one woman does will not necessarily suit another. A scarf is to a woman what a necktie is to a man and the way you tie it is part of your personality.” Christian Dior

I love the way he used the word frock instead of dress or outfit. It sounds quaint today but it is so charming and feminine! Throughout the book he also puts great emphasis on individual personality.

The scarf is an 18″ silk square. It is printed with Fleurs-de-Lis which are stylized irises that have long been associated with the French monarchy. This shape and size of scarf can be tied in many ways. I’ll experiment and demonstrate several of them soon. Fortunately this pretty little scarf is still in perfect condition. I was lucky to find the green scarf (just in time for Saint Patrick’s Day!) with its stylized iris flowers and the book for only $2.99 each!

Christian Dior would have approved of this too because he also says, in the introduction of his book, “It is possible for a woman to be elegant without spending very much money on her clothes, if she is careful to choose the clothes that suit her personality. Simplicity, good taste and grooming are the three fundamentals of good dressing and these do not cost money. First you must study yourself. Learn to know what suits you and what does not. And study your own needs.”

 

 

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Lady Violette Single Handedly Vows to Bring Colorful Gloves Back in Style!

Tuesday, March 8th, 2011

Flower Colored Vintage Gloves From the 1950's

Gloves were made in all colors in the 1950’s and came in all kinds of fabrics and styles… You could really pick a glove like you could pick a flower! And wear it as an accent to your outfit every day like a corsage!

There was something available to go with every mood and every ensemble…

They were like beautiful colorful flowers!

I have arranged my collection of vintage circa 1950’s  gloves in gorgeous spring colors in a straw basket so I can easily pick a pair to accent an outfit.

Why not think of them as art as well and put them out where they can be seen and enjoyed as interior decor?

The colors are amazing! In this arrangement alone there are Lilac, Violet, Periwinkle, Bluebell, Lavender, Apple Blossom, Azalea. Rose, Cyclamen, Honeysuckle, Queen Anne’s Lace, Bells of Ireland, Mint, Dahlia, Tulip, Iris, Buttercup, Goldenrod, Delphinium, and more…

You see? Just like flowers! And there are many more varieties to be had! Why did women stop wearing pretty gloves? They were so attractive and so entertaining! Beautiful hands were a tremendous asset to women in bygone eras. They continue to be so today, its just that not many people take notice of them. However, if you wear a attractive glove or an elegant ring or colorful nail polish and take good care of your hands people will respond to them  in a positive manner. I have experimented with this and proven it to be so for myself. Why not try it and see what happens? It is another one of those Feminine Arts we so badly need to revive! For our own pleasure and well being!

I have found most of my gloves in thrift stores. I have dyed pure white ones, or slightly dingy with age white ones, pretty colors in the washing machine using Ritt dye. It is very easy to do. And it is not messy at all. You can throw in some lingerie and dye it to match at the same time as well. Vintage cotton and nylon dyes beautifully and easily. You an even over dye prints and get some very interesting effects.

You can find new gloves in bridal shops and costume supply stores. Bridal shops carry many colors in satins and laces to go with brides and bridesmaids dresses. The bridesmaids ones are usually very reasonably priced. You can decorate your gloves with little buttons or ribbons or beads. Let’s bring pretty gloves back and enjoy ourselves!

Easter ~ therefore Spring ~ has always been a traditional time to wear a new hat and a pair of gloves. If you don’t celebrate Easter you can always celebrate Spring! Celebrate the beauty of nature, the fruit tress coming into bloom, bulbs coming up and flowers blossoming… Join them in being colorful! They will love it!

 

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Beautiful “Violets are Blue” Gloves for Spring from Lady Violette’s Private Collection

Monday, March 7th, 2011

"Violets are Blue" 1950's Vintage Glove Collection

But of course Lady Violette has a blue violet glove collection! And strong opinions about gloves!

Here it is ~ my collection of dainty little blue vintage gloves for spring from the 1950s ~ when ladies still wore  gloves to protect their pretty hands almost all the time!

They wore them whenever they went outside and for activities such as  driving, when shopping (and they kept them on for that) when going out to lunch, tea or cocktails, definitely for church, for dinner, to dances. to the country club. There were special gloves for almost every occasion. From gardening to protect the hands from dirt and sun, to long elegant evening gloves for the glamourous evenings out.It was not unusual to switch back and forth and end up using five pairs of gloves per day.

The goal was to keep your hands young looking, white, and soft. You were to keep them out of the sun in summer and warm in winter. They often put petroleum jelly on their hands, then wore white cotton gloves over it while they slept. (I tried it. But I couldn’t sleep! It felt too weird!”) A bit of hand cream during the day and at bedtime is all I can manage.

It was a common practice to check ones fingernails each morning, file them carefully to points, lightly buff the surfaces, and apply fresh polish daily. My grandmother did this while having morning coffee and reading the newspaper as she let her nails dry. She pushed her cuticles back with an orange stick wrapped in cotton. She didn’t paint the moons. She insisted that oiling the cuticles and never cutting them was the secret to beautiful nails. She also took vast amounts of gelatin as she was sure it was beneficial to having both healthy hair and nails. Natural nails were considered beautiful.

The thick, extra long, fake looking acrylic ghetto-fabulous nails many women wear today would have horrified her! They look like talons! They are not lady-like! Feminine, pretty and healthy nails were the goal… And you must never look like you had to do any work with your hands. The goal was to give the impression that your husband or father was successful enough in business to afford household help. Amazingly women actually did do a lot of household work and cooking and still managed to maintain their hands nicely.

This has to have been due to their attention to taking care of their hands. Their dedication to wearing gloves, filing and buffing their nails, and moisturizing. Historically beautiful hands were greatly admired. Women made caring for their hands a priority.

Gloves are so utterly feminine, so perfectly girlish and charming! I have been collecting them for years. They are getting very hard to find. They don’t seem to be making them anymore! Anywhere that I know of. (If you know of a good source, please, let me know! ) You used to be able to walk into any fine department store and go to the glove bar where there would be a great selection of practical and dressy gloves available in a vast array of sizes. Not one size fits all! And every season an amazing array of high fashion and highly entertaining options would emerge.

There used to be glove bars and hat salons in major department stores. Those were the days! And those are the kind of gloves I covet! I want them in every length, color, style, and fabric. Vogue Patterns is offering vintage patterns for making your own now. I am going to try it.

I provide pictures and descriptions of the real thing now for inspiration.

The Blue Violet Vintage Gloves clockwise from the top:

1) Pale blue/gray nylon ruched elbow length gloves – size  small

2) Robin’s egg blue kidskin gloves from Italy – size 7

3) Palest  ice blue Kid gloves from France – size 7

4) Periwinkle blue nylon wrist length gloves size 7.

5) Blue super soft and velvety cotton gloves – size 7

Did you know that gloves fit the same way as shoes? A woman’s shoe and glove size is usually the same. Or within the range of 1/2  a size difference. Thus if you wear a size 6 1/2 shoe, you will most likely take a size 6 and a half glove – if you wart a size 8 shoe you will probably wear a size 8 glove.

!

 

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The Teal Box Hat – A Vintage 1995 Design by MIndy Fradkin of Important Hats.

Monday, March 7th, 2011

Teal Box Hat by Mindy Fradkin Important Hats~ 1995

Here is another lovely hat designed by Mindy Fradkin when she made “Important Hats”. This one was done for her Winter 1995 Collection. It is hand pleated and sewn teal silk topped with black cock feathers with a blue/green sheen and accented with a vintage black lace flower with a rhinestone center. MIndy is now better known as Prncess WOW! She still designs the occasional hat for a private client but is primarily involved in full time work for the Smile Revolution. She continues to wear her own designs in her work because hats are joyous creations that make people smile. You can click on the link at the end of this post for more information on Mindy and her work.

I wore this with a belted black lace  tunic over a teal silk camisole with sheer black silk chiffon float pants and a set of two teal and turquoise long flapper style necklaces and delicate dangling earrings of of my own design. I added vintage black lace court shoes. A long black velvet evening cape closed with Oriental frogs, decorated with huge silk tassels and lined in teal brocade printed with butterflies modeled after one I’d seen in drawings of Paris fashions from the 1910’s, subtly completed my look. I say subtly because the cape initially appeared to be all black. It was only after opening it that one would know is was lined in bright silk butterflies. It was all luscious but the hat was the attention getting center piece of the ensemble. I wore this to a performance and benefit concert for the Martha Graham Dance Company at New York City Center Theater and a party afterward where most of the guests were wearing vintage Halston. I think my outfit got more attention than most of the others worn that night. I felt as if  I had stepped out of a scene from  Scheherazade and  was dressed by Leon Bakst. Everyone asked me who had designed my hat! And I told them ~ Mindy Fradkin of Important Hats, of course!

Back View of Teal Box Hat

Someone at this Martha Graham event who was producing a Broadway play wanted Mindy’s contact information so he could discuss designing hats for a Follies-Bergere influenced show he was working on. I did refere them to each other. It was typical to have people ask for the designer’s contact information when I wore Mindy’s hats. I was always delighted to provide this.

I love the way the teal fabric is pleated and overlapped  in the back of this hat. You always know you look just as elegant and intriguing from the back as you do from the front in one of Mindy’s Fradkin’s Important Hat Creations. She designed her hats to flatter the wearer from all directions.

Inside this hat is equally beautiful. All hand stitched and lined in black silk and has one of her handmade labels. She paints these herself for each of her creations so they are essentially “signed” by the artist. Each of Mindy’s hats is really like a small sculpture. When you wear one you are wearing a work if art. Each one is completely handmade. They are true couture creations! What I love about couture clothing and accessories is the care that goes into the conception and production of each piece. And the fact is that each piece is totally unique. For me, as the owner and wearer of such a piece, I derive great personal pleasure in my own appreciation of the designer’s skills and the beauty of the execution of her vision. I love the handmade workmanship and the artist’s individual mark. The quality is unquestionable! That is the private experience of wearing couture.

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Original Design From Mindy Fradkin Important Hats – Circa 1992 Collection

Saturday, March 5th, 2011

The Feather Beret - circa 1992 by Mindy Fradkin Important Hats

This is the dramatic Feather Beret which was one of Mindy Fradkin Important Hats most popular styles. It was designed and produced in 1992, so it is now vintage! I had two ~ this one in green and brown and black feathers on a black base and a beautiful hot pink one with kelly green feathers. The latter was so beautiful that someone stole it! Which, I guess, is the ultimate compliment to the designer, although I was pretty upset about it because I loved it and wanted to wear it more myself! I only got to wear it once and then it mysteriously disappeared! It vanished from a coat check room in a fancy restaurant! Now I keep my hats on all evening until I get home where they will be safe and sound!

Back View of the Feather Beret

 

MIndy Fradkin designed this hat when she was know primarily at a hat designer. She is now better known as the Princess of WOW! and works full time for The Smile Revolution. She still wears her own hat designs in her work & makes hats for private clients as time permits. You can contact her at

twww.theprincessofwow.com
www.thesmilerevolution.com

Mindy has some important things to say about hats;

” Hats bring joy to people. They make people smile. For centuries people wore hats. I feel it is innate to wear a hat. I have a whole theory on this…”

“Historically hats were important and that is why I called my company Important Hats…”

“It’s a spiritual thing. In churches, and synagogues people wore hats. Royalty wore them. Donning a headpiece was both spiritual and significant of power and position…”

“The right headpiece on a man, woman or child brings that person recognition and a unique identity, as well as beauty and glamor…”

” In my opinion, taking off the hat, in the 60’s was a downfall of morals in a lot of ways in the society. It was a wonderful time, too, but hats represented civility and the world was changing rapidly.”

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