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Lady Violette

The Romantic Lifestyle

Posts Tagged ‘Feminine Arts’

Christian Dior said, “I Have Designed Flower Women.” in describing his new look silhouette after World War II

Saturday, March 12th, 2011

Christian Dior 1957 - Ultimate Elegance

On FLOWERS, in his dictionary of style, Christian Dior said,

“After women, flowers are the most lovely thing God has given the world.”

“But being so sweet and so charming they must be used with care. A flowered hat may be lovely or ridiculous. A flower in your buttonhole or in your belt or in your decollete may be extremely nice… but choose a variety of flower and a color to suit your personality. ”

“Flowered prints I think are wonerful…silk prints in beautiful colors are lovely for afternoon suits, dinner frocks, or cocktail dresses.”

“In brilliant colors, too, flowered prints can be gay for holiday clothes.”

“… flowers can bring a touch of color to a dark dress. A spray of purple pansies and yellow gold  mimosa can do wonders to light up a dark dress.”

Interestingly, many  years latter, we continue to feel the same way. I think it is because they cheer us up and it is such a natural thing to do ~ see a pretty flower, pick it and tuck in in our hair so we can be just as lovely and alluring as the flower itself!

Three year old Coco put flowers in her hair a few postings back. I pinned a flower on my own dress yesterday. Today we are contemplating hats with flowers in them. Spring is in the air and we all want to be fresh and new and colorful just like the flowers!

In fact, we want to be flowers!

//fashionlvr.com/5407/christian-dior-spring-2011-haute-couture/ here is the Spring 2011 Dior show as designed by John Gallianos – in the midst of much controversy – still, it is artistically brilliant! And I suggest you check it out keeping that fact in mind.

 

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Christian Dior on Hats in 1951 ~ “Now We Come to the Most Pressing Problem of This Time. Shall You or Shall You Not Wear a Hat?”

Friday, March 11th, 2011

Hat from Spring 2011 Dior Collection

“I think that in town you cannot be really dressed without a hat. It is really the completion of your outfit and in another way, it is very often the best way to show your personality. It is easier to express yourself sometimes with your hat than it is with your clothes. Hats are important!

A hat can make you look gay, serious, dignified, happy – or sometimes ugly if you don’t choose it well! A hat is the quintessence of femininity with all the frivolity this word contains!

Women would be very silly not to take advantage of such an efficient weapon of coquetry.

And with hats it is the same as with handbags and your clothes – always select the best possible materials.

In the winter velvet and good quality felts are lovely and very versatile and you can get wonderful, rich colors in those materials.

Fur is lovely, too – and besides being warm a little fur hat is very feminine. If you cannot afford a fur coat but yearn for a little something fur for cold days, then, by all means, have a fur hat!

The line of a hat is just as important, too, as the line of your frock. Too many hats are just  “shapes” cluttered up with numerous decorations in the form os feathers or flowers. If a hat has a good line it will still be attractive without any trimmings as all.

Equally when you have a hat with a good line don’t clutter it up with a bunch of flowers you suddenly have a whim to wear!

For summer, little silk or straw  hats are very nice – and I purposely say “little” because they are much more convenient to have than big ones. You quickly tire of having hats with enormous brims and except on very still summer days  they are difficult to wear elegantly – you do not always want to be holding onto the brim!

Of course on the right day and for the right occasion – like a garden party – nothing is nicer or more provocative than a really big hat, sometimes covered with a profusion of flowers.

For sport or in the country, I do not very much like hats – unless rain wind or strong sun draws them back to their original use which is to cover the head.”  From the entry on Hats in Christian Dior’s Little Dictionary of Fashion published by Abrams in 1951

As Lady Violette I am delighted to see that Christian Dior used  the term important hats! And that he says a hat is one of the best ways to show your personality. And he goes on to say that hats are the quintessence of femininity and are such an efficient weapon of coquetry!

A Charmingly Veiled Cocktail Hat - Spring 2011 Dior Collection

The hats pictured are by John Gallianos for Dior 2011 Spring – just before his firing! Too bad! He was and still is a brilliant designer!

See my next post for a Dior hat in an ensemble designed by the master himself.

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Lady Violette Single Handedly Vows to Bring Colorful Gloves Back in Style!

Tuesday, March 8th, 2011

Flower Colored Vintage Gloves From the 1950's

Gloves were made in all colors in the 1950’s and came in all kinds of fabrics and styles… You could really pick a glove like you could pick a flower! And wear it as an accent to your outfit every day like a corsage!

There was something available to go with every mood and every ensemble…

They were like beautiful colorful flowers!

I have arranged my collection of vintage circa 1950’s  gloves in gorgeous spring colors in a straw basket so I can easily pick a pair to accent an outfit.

Why not think of them as art as well and put them out where they can be seen and enjoyed as interior decor?

The colors are amazing! In this arrangement alone there are Lilac, Violet, Periwinkle, Bluebell, Lavender, Apple Blossom, Azalea. Rose, Cyclamen, Honeysuckle, Queen Anne’s Lace, Bells of Ireland, Mint, Dahlia, Tulip, Iris, Buttercup, Goldenrod, Delphinium, and more…

You see? Just like flowers! And there are many more varieties to be had! Why did women stop wearing pretty gloves? They were so attractive and so entertaining! Beautiful hands were a tremendous asset to women in bygone eras. They continue to be so today, its just that not many people take notice of them. However, if you wear a attractive glove or an elegant ring or colorful nail polish and take good care of your hands people will respond to them  in a positive manner. I have experimented with this and proven it to be so for myself. Why not try it and see what happens? It is another one of those Feminine Arts we so badly need to revive! For our own pleasure and well being!

I have found most of my gloves in thrift stores. I have dyed pure white ones, or slightly dingy with age white ones, pretty colors in the washing machine using Ritt dye. It is very easy to do. And it is not messy at all. You can throw in some lingerie and dye it to match at the same time as well. Vintage cotton and nylon dyes beautifully and easily. You an even over dye prints and get some very interesting effects.

You can find new gloves in bridal shops and costume supply stores. Bridal shops carry many colors in satins and laces to go with brides and bridesmaids dresses. The bridesmaids ones are usually very reasonably priced. You can decorate your gloves with little buttons or ribbons or beads. Let’s bring pretty gloves back and enjoy ourselves!

Easter ~ therefore Spring ~ has always been a traditional time to wear a new hat and a pair of gloves. If you don’t celebrate Easter you can always celebrate Spring! Celebrate the beauty of nature, the fruit tress coming into bloom, bulbs coming up and flowers blossoming… Join them in being colorful! They will love it!

 

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Beautiful “Violets are Blue” Gloves for Spring from Lady Violette’s Private Collection

Monday, March 7th, 2011

"Violets are Blue" 1950's Vintage Glove Collection

But of course Lady Violette has a blue violet glove collection! And strong opinions about gloves!

Here it is ~ my collection of dainty little blue vintage gloves for spring from the 1950s ~ when ladies still wore  gloves to protect their pretty hands almost all the time!

They wore them whenever they went outside and for activities such as  driving, when shopping (and they kept them on for that) when going out to lunch, tea or cocktails, definitely for church, for dinner, to dances. to the country club. There were special gloves for almost every occasion. From gardening to protect the hands from dirt and sun, to long elegant evening gloves for the glamourous evenings out.It was not unusual to switch back and forth and end up using five pairs of gloves per day.

The goal was to keep your hands young looking, white, and soft. You were to keep them out of the sun in summer and warm in winter. They often put petroleum jelly on their hands, then wore white cotton gloves over it while they slept. (I tried it. But I couldn’t sleep! It felt too weird!”) A bit of hand cream during the day and at bedtime is all I can manage.

It was a common practice to check ones fingernails each morning, file them carefully to points, lightly buff the surfaces, and apply fresh polish daily. My grandmother did this while having morning coffee and reading the newspaper as she let her nails dry. She pushed her cuticles back with an orange stick wrapped in cotton. She didn’t paint the moons. She insisted that oiling the cuticles and never cutting them was the secret to beautiful nails. She also took vast amounts of gelatin as she was sure it was beneficial to having both healthy hair and nails. Natural nails were considered beautiful.

The thick, extra long, fake looking acrylic ghetto-fabulous nails many women wear today would have horrified her! They look like talons! They are not lady-like! Feminine, pretty and healthy nails were the goal… And you must never look like you had to do any work with your hands. The goal was to give the impression that your husband or father was successful enough in business to afford household help. Amazingly women actually did do a lot of household work and cooking and still managed to maintain their hands nicely.

This has to have been due to their attention to taking care of their hands. Their dedication to wearing gloves, filing and buffing their nails, and moisturizing. Historically beautiful hands were greatly admired. Women made caring for their hands a priority.

Gloves are so utterly feminine, so perfectly girlish and charming! I have been collecting them for years. They are getting very hard to find. They don’t seem to be making them anymore! Anywhere that I know of. (If you know of a good source, please, let me know! ) You used to be able to walk into any fine department store and go to the glove bar where there would be a great selection of practical and dressy gloves available in a vast array of sizes. Not one size fits all! And every season an amazing array of high fashion and highly entertaining options would emerge.

There used to be glove bars and hat salons in major department stores. Those were the days! And those are the kind of gloves I covet! I want them in every length, color, style, and fabric. Vogue Patterns is offering vintage patterns for making your own now. I am going to try it.

I provide pictures and descriptions of the real thing now for inspiration.

The Blue Violet Vintage Gloves clockwise from the top:

1) Pale blue/gray nylon ruched elbow length gloves – size  small

2) Robin’s egg blue kidskin gloves from Italy – size 7

3) Palest  ice blue Kid gloves from France – size 7

4) Periwinkle blue nylon wrist length gloves size 7.

5) Blue super soft and velvety cotton gloves – size 7

Did you know that gloves fit the same way as shoes? A woman’s shoe and glove size is usually the same. Or within the range of 1/2  a size difference. Thus if you wear a size 6 1/2 shoe, you will most likely take a size 6 and a half glove – if you wart a size 8 shoe you will probably wear a size 8 glove.

!

 

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The Teal Box Hat – A Vintage 1995 Design by MIndy Fradkin of Important Hats.

Monday, March 7th, 2011

Teal Box Hat by Mindy Fradkin Important Hats~ 1995

Here is another lovely hat designed by Mindy Fradkin when she made “Important Hats”. This one was done for her Winter 1995 Collection. It is hand pleated and sewn teal silk topped with black cock feathers with a blue/green sheen and accented with a vintage black lace flower with a rhinestone center. MIndy is now better known as Prncess WOW! She still designs the occasional hat for a private client but is primarily involved in full time work for the Smile Revolution. She continues to wear her own designs in her work because hats are joyous creations that make people smile. You can click on the link at the end of this post for more information on Mindy and her work.

I wore this with a belted black lace  tunic over a teal silk camisole with sheer black silk chiffon float pants and a set of two teal and turquoise long flapper style necklaces and delicate dangling earrings of of my own design. I added vintage black lace court shoes. A long black velvet evening cape closed with Oriental frogs, decorated with huge silk tassels and lined in teal brocade printed with butterflies modeled after one I’d seen in drawings of Paris fashions from the 1910’s, subtly completed my look. I say subtly because the cape initially appeared to be all black. It was only after opening it that one would know is was lined in bright silk butterflies. It was all luscious but the hat was the attention getting center piece of the ensemble. I wore this to a performance and benefit concert for the Martha Graham Dance Company at New York City Center Theater and a party afterward where most of the guests were wearing vintage Halston. I think my outfit got more attention than most of the others worn that night. I felt as if  I had stepped out of a scene from  Scheherazade and  was dressed by Leon Bakst. Everyone asked me who had designed my hat! And I told them ~ Mindy Fradkin of Important Hats, of course!

Back View of Teal Box Hat

Someone at this Martha Graham event who was producing a Broadway play wanted Mindy’s contact information so he could discuss designing hats for a Follies-Bergere influenced show he was working on. I did refere them to each other. It was typical to have people ask for the designer’s contact information when I wore Mindy’s hats. I was always delighted to provide this.

I love the way the teal fabric is pleated and overlapped  in the back of this hat. You always know you look just as elegant and intriguing from the back as you do from the front in one of Mindy’s Fradkin’s Important Hat Creations. She designed her hats to flatter the wearer from all directions.

Inside this hat is equally beautiful. All hand stitched and lined in black silk and has one of her handmade labels. She paints these herself for each of her creations so they are essentially “signed” by the artist. Each of Mindy’s hats is really like a small sculpture. When you wear one you are wearing a work if art. Each one is completely handmade. They are true couture creations! What I love about couture clothing and accessories is the care that goes into the conception and production of each piece. And the fact is that each piece is totally unique. For me, as the owner and wearer of such a piece, I derive great personal pleasure in my own appreciation of the designer’s skills and the beauty of the execution of her vision. I love the handmade workmanship and the artist’s individual mark. The quality is unquestionable! That is the private experience of wearing couture.

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