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Lady Violette

The Romantic Lifestyle

Posts Tagged ‘Making Art’

The Teal Box Hat – A Vintage 1995 Design by MIndy Fradkin of Important Hats.

Monday, March 7th, 2011

Teal Box Hat by Mindy Fradkin Important Hats~ 1995

Here is another lovely hat designed by Mindy Fradkin when she made “Important Hats”. This one was done for her Winter 1995 Collection. It is hand pleated and sewn teal silk topped with black cock feathers with a blue/green sheen and accented with a vintage black lace flower with a rhinestone center. MIndy is now better known as Prncess WOW! She still designs the occasional hat for a private client but is primarily involved in full time work for the Smile Revolution. She continues to wear her own designs in her work because hats are joyous creations that make people smile. You can click on the link at the end of this post for more information on Mindy and her work.

I wore this with a belted black lace  tunic over a teal silk camisole with sheer black silk chiffon float pants and a set of two teal and turquoise long flapper style necklaces and delicate dangling earrings of of my own design. I added vintage black lace court shoes. A long black velvet evening cape closed with Oriental frogs, decorated with huge silk tassels and lined in teal brocade printed with butterflies modeled after one I’d seen in drawings of Paris fashions from the 1910’s, subtly completed my look. I say subtly because the cape initially appeared to be all black. It was only after opening it that one would know is was lined in bright silk butterflies. It was all luscious but the hat was the attention getting center piece of the ensemble. I wore this to a performance and benefit concert for the Martha Graham Dance Company at New York City Center Theater and a party afterward where most of the guests were wearing vintage Halston. I think my outfit got more attention than most of the others worn that night. I felt as if  I had stepped out of a scene from  Scheherazade and  was dressed by Leon Bakst. Everyone asked me who had designed my hat! And I told them ~ Mindy Fradkin of Important Hats, of course!

Back View of Teal Box Hat

Someone at this Martha Graham event who was producing a Broadway play wanted Mindy’s contact information so he could discuss designing hats for a Follies-Bergere influenced show he was working on. I did refere them to each other. It was typical to have people ask for the designer’s contact information when I wore Mindy’s hats. I was always delighted to provide this.

I love the way the teal fabric is pleated and overlapped  in the back of this hat. You always know you look just as elegant and intriguing from the back as you do from the front in one of Mindy’s Fradkin’s Important Hat Creations. She designed her hats to flatter the wearer from all directions.

Inside this hat is equally beautiful. All hand stitched and lined in black silk and has one of her handmade labels. She paints these herself for each of her creations so they are essentially “signed” by the artist. Each of Mindy’s hats is really like a small sculpture. When you wear one you are wearing a work if art. Each one is completely handmade. They are true couture creations! What I love about couture clothing and accessories is the care that goes into the conception and production of each piece. And the fact is that each piece is totally unique. For me, as the owner and wearer of such a piece, I derive great personal pleasure in my own appreciation of the designer’s skills and the beauty of the execution of her vision. I love the handmade workmanship and the artist’s individual mark. The quality is unquestionable! That is the private experience of wearing couture.

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Fairy Rescued! “The Lavender Fairy” is Now Safe in Lady Violette’s Salon!

Thursday, March 3rd, 2011

"The Lavender Fairy" in needlepoint

Yesterday, I was browsing through a really grungy thrift and junk shop on highway 99 in the middle of absolute nowhere when I came upon a prime example of the Feminine Arts ~ an exquisitely executed portrait of “The Lavender Fairy” hand done in extremely fine needlepoint on linen and accented with the  smallest glass seed beads, embroidery and tiny pearls.

The Lavender Fairy  is sitting delicately on a branch ~ as she might be in your garden ~ and holding a wand with glittering white fairy dust coming out of it. She is an elegant adult fairy of Victorian sensibilities.

Technically the piece is very well done. It couldn’t be better! It is also beautifully professionally matted and framed. And it is quite large – the image is about 2′ x 3′ before matting and framing. It is in a lovely antiqued silver painted wood frame. I cannot take the glass off the picture to photograph it without damaging the matting and framing job. Thus I have photographed it with the glass on and there is glare, alas!

The picture is not signed by the artist. That is too bad, as I would like to know who made it. Some woman spent many hours lovingly creating this picture. Not only in executing the needlework involved  in this particular piece, but also in learning how to do it! All in all it is very impressive! I just had to have it. Because I truly appreciate it and in order to take good care of it.  Fortunately for me it was very reasonably priced.

So, I brought “The Lavender Fairy” home with me and I am now in the process of cleaning it up and finding a nice place to hang it in my house. I will hang her in my Lady Violette Salon ~ the one very feminine room in the house. It is actually a little sitting room I have created upstairs and filled with all manor of little feminine objets d’art such as this that I am dedicated to preserving and caring for. I have decorated it like I think a tiny Paris apartment might have been in a novel in the 1920’s.

My Lady Violette Salon is a perfect little place to go when someone comes over to visit for a cup of tea and a delicious little pastry and an hour or so of knitting or embroidery. I have created it as a tiny escape nest from the modern world! A little retreat to a quieter and gentler time. It is also a perfect place to read.

As Lady Violette de Courcy I am truly dedicated to finding, restoring and preserving the finest examples of The Feminine Arts and to maintaining a touch of the civilized past in my life and those of my friends and family. I am delighted to now have The Lavender Fairy in my care!

A note about the Feminine Arts. In times past a well bred young woman would be expected to be able to paint a little, sing a little, play the piano and pen occasional bits of poetry. Often a little meant quite proficiently! But heaven forbid she wished to become an actual  professional artist! Mama and Papa would be horrified. For professional artists were considered  bohemian and risque!  Something to think about!

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Cooking up Costumes for a Princess! Cutting & Sewing in the Kitchen!

Wednesday, March 2nd, 2011

The kitchen island makes a perfect cutting table!

I’m hard at work making costumes for Princess WOW! to wear for her upcoming concerts in New York. My kitchen has been a serving as a sewing studio all week. The kitchen has become a cutting room while I”m cooking up colorful costumes!

 

For a day, every surface was taken over by the cutting process for two long gowns!

 

Tricks of the trade! Canned goods make perfect weights to hold down pattern pieces!

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What Makes The Picture a Good Portrait? About “Fur is Fabulous!” … Part 2

Sunday, February 27th, 2011

"Fur is Fabulous"

Continued from Part 1, published on 2/16/2011.

*As a portrait the picture “Fur is Fabulous” is good because it captures me as a unique person and tells a lot about me. I also like it and what it says about me. I look like an exotic French bird of some sort. It reminds me of a film still from an old black and white French or Italian movie from the 1950’s or 60’s, an era in film which I love. Several of the kinds of art work I do are shown in the picture – my vintage clothing restoration work, my sewing, my passion for creating and wearing hats. I have often worked as a hat model (for hat designing friend, Princess WOW! several others milliners, and several photographers,) – is that not obvious? (I say in jest!) As well! And I am wearing an antique black silk kimono which I love and am very comfortable in.

Then there is the “hat/sleeve” thing going on. There is a saying, “He is wearing his heart on his sleeve.” which refers to him showing his emotions, what is in his heart, very directly, upfront, not trying to conceal it in deep secrecy. He is being very open about what he truly feels. It just happened that I was admiring and appreciating the softness and Absolute Beauty of the luxurious black Norwegian fox fur cuffs and I put one on my head to try it out as a hat and suddenly I was wearing my sleeve on my head!” Which brings me around to the other reason this photo is successful.

The brain is the center of thought. It is located inside the head. If one calls attention to that which is deep in his heart – by wearing his heart on his sleeve – it follows that one is bringing her thoughts on a subject to the fore by wearing them on her head! As I said, “Fur is Fabulous!” I was expressing my deep appreciation for fur’s Absolute Beauty.

By Absolute Beauty, I mean in the deepest purest sense. As a work of nature, as the coat of a wonderful creature, my appreciation for the beautiful animal from which it came, for that animal’s soul, and for his freedom to live in our world and be himself – running free and exquisite. I was thinking as I stroked the long dark soft fur of the Norwegian Fox, that he must, in his natural habitat, be a shining silky black creature living in a beautiful white snowy place, with deep green fir trees laden heavy with snow …..” And while I was thinking about him out there, blissfully and innocently living his life, streaking swiftly and gracefully through the forest…

I was also thinking about, and appreciating, the exquisite work of the professional fine art furrier who had made these beautiful cuffs and designed the 70 plus year old vintage coat I was rescuing from abandoned oblivion. I was thinking about the old furrier’s skill at working with the exquisite shining black fox pelts and how this ultra-skilled profession is also coming to an end. How it is, sadly, dying out.

I was thinking about my lovely and wise 96 year old friend who was a life-long professional furrier. And was, also, a teacher, in a now closed down fashion institute, specializing in designing and sewing with real and valuable furs. We have talked a lot about her career in the fur industry in the old days and what she knows about furs. She too is a dying breed. Even more in danger of extinction than the animals on the endangered species lists. This too is sad! Is it not?

That is what I was thinking! I was thinking that I must interview her formally and write about her and her work before it is too late. She is healthy now, but she is getting on in years and I have to do this before it is too late.

Lastly, I was thinking about the fact that I was recycling an elegant old coat. I had cleaned it, relined it, changed the buttons as it was missing one, and cleaned and mothproofed the fur. In changing the buttons I had found appropriate vintage replacements from the same era. I was now in the process of putting the cuffs back onto the coat so I could wear it. I am very proud of my textile and clothing restoration abilities and of the part I am doing to restore and reuse elegant clothing from earlier eras. I resurrect it. I give it a new life. I wear it. I photograph and document it. It gets used, seen, admired, enjoyed, generally talked about. The artists and designers who made it long ago and were forgotten about are remembered. In a way, I make all of them, including the animals whose pelts are in the coats live again. I think this is far better for them than having them molder away into total extinction, long forgotten, in a damp closet or attic somewhere!

I feel that, when I am wearing these beautiful vintage clothes elegance is, on some small level, restored to our modern world. I get a lot of interesting comments about my clothes and how I look. It opens peoples eyes to what was done historically and to what is still possible if you care to put the time and effort into dressing this way. In fact, into every aspect of your whole life. If you choose to contemplate on it you will become aware of many more ways in which you can reclaim elegance from the past and incorporate it into the here and now.

Sometimes, when I am asked about my interesting clothes I get the chance to explain that I restore them and sew by hand and on old sewing machines. And that I also find and restore the old sewing machines and other tools of the trade that I use. I may get to explain that I am a major recycler. My entire house is filled with things I have found and gotten second hand. I have, for instance, a vintage Italian Pavoni Espresso machine. I use it everyday. I love it! I love the processes of doing everything from scratch. Doing things this way, by myself, pleases me.

I happen to have met the furrier I told you about because I responded to her posting on Craig’s list when she was downsizing and selling her Singer Featherweight 221 sewing machine. I went to her home to look at the machine, she saw my clothes and my style, we began to talk and we immediately hit it off! Her name is Dorothy.

I did purchase Dorothy’s sewing machine. She told me she also had boxes of old vintage sewing patterns and would I like them? I said yes! As it turned out she gave me a couple of hundred old patterns – and she had made all of them herself at one time or another during her life. The dates of the patterns she gave me began in 1932 when she was 17 with the dress she wore to her high school prom. and extended through to 2008 when she decided to stop making all her own clothes. Each pattern was carefully labeled with the date she made it and what occasion it was made for. In many cases there was a sample of the fabric she had originally used attached to the pattern envelope.

Dorothy gave me the documented story of her life in her sewing patterns. I spent a lot of time listening to her stories which I find fascinating. And from which I learned a lot. She apprenticed with a fine furrier when she got out of high school and spent her entire life working for his firm. She was also married and socially active. She also became a professor at The New York Fashion Institute teaching furrier design, construction and sewing techniques.

She is the only person I know who is able to explain how an older style fur coat or hat was made and identify the unusual types of furs in some vintage pieces. She has an amazing personal collection of vintage fur coats and yes, she still wears them, regularly. Dorothy is a treasure.

The Peta people wouldn’t dare mess with Dorothy. She commands there respect. She is also for the most part, on their side. She loves the animals that produce the fur and wants to protect them. She does care.

Anyway, Dorothy has been a fascinating person for me to get to know. I think she feels the same way about me. She told me that she likes being friends with me because she doesn’t have many of her old friends left any longer. And we have a lot of shared interests.

I am so glad that I have met her! And that we have become friends. And it all happened because we appreciate fur for it’s Absolute Beauty. We both think, “Fur is Fabulous” including the animals it comes on!  Mostly for that reason, actually. And we have become friends because we share this deep appreciation.

Amazingly, all these thoughts were going through my head when I said “Fur is Fabulous” and my son was taking that picture. He only made one exposure by the way. It was a very spontaneous experience.

To be continued with Part III, of “Fur is Fabulous”

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The Fine Art of Draping the Human Figure

Saturday, February 26th, 2011

The Fine Art of Draping the Figure

Artists have drawn and painted the human figure draped in beautiful folds of cloth to enhance its intrinsic grace for as long as they have been making art.

And I have been thinking about this all week as I have studied the pictures of Tricia’s beautiful scarf tying techniques.

What could be more stylish and feminine in any time in history or in any culture than a beautifully draped human figure? I can’t think of anything! But I can think of many beautiful examples of draping.

There were the, the Egyptians, the Greeks, the Romans, the East Indian Women in their exquisite saris, Isadora Duncan the modern dancer, and more beautiful sculptures and paintings than anyone ever could list – just to mention a few examples. Every museum is full of them!

Draping the female figure alluringly is most definitely an example of the Feminine Arts throughout History.

Here Tricia has again used her basic wrap of the white silk shawl, then decorated it with a Ficcare Maximas Clip. These are designed to use in the hair to hold French twists and buns in place, but we have found them to work as excellent shawl and scarf clips as well.

I will post instructions for tying and styling these scarves soon. In the meantime you may visit International Scarf Stylist Tricia James at scarfgenie.com

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