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Lady Violette

The Romantic Lifestyle

Posts Tagged ‘History’

An Amazing Kelly Green Ball Gown from Emma Domb Circa 1960’s

Monday, March 14th, 2011

This is an elegant vintage 60’s formal gown of heavy green silk shantung lined in China silk. The front is a classic figure fitted column. The back is a cape like skirt attached to a yoke with dramatic covered buttons. I particularly like the side view with the cape like effect of the drape.

Designer Emma Domb was American and famous for her bridal gowns, prom dresses and ball gowns. This is an austere model for her as most of her dresses were full skirted tulle concoctions. This green, in person, is about as strong a kelly green as you can get so it seems perfect choice to wear for Saint Patrick’s Day Ball to me!

Front is a Simple Long Shift

Side View with Elegant Drape

Back Has a Cape Like Skirt

Classic Emma Domb Label

Detail of Yoke with Covered Buttons

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From I. Magnin and Perfectly Fit for the Mad Men Saint Patrick’s Day Party!

Sunday, March 13th, 2011

Silk Dress with Jacket

Silk Paisley Brocade Dress with Jacket

This is an adorable circa 1962 emerald green silk paisley brocade dress suit with jacket. Even more amazing it is new old stock from the prestigious San Francisco store I. Magnin, which means it was never sold and never worn and still has the original tags on it!

Backview

It is perfect! A real gem!

Beautifully Fitted Bodice

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Saint Patrick’s Day is Just Around the Corner ~ One is Supposed to Wear Green!

Saturday, March 12th, 2011

Green Gaberdine Suit Circa 1948

This is an amazing opportunity that comes around once a year to get out the gorgeous green vintage items from the 1940’s and 50’s when the exact right color of Irish green was popular for suits, hats, and dresses.

I have some amazing pieces in my collection and I think posting them in my blog during the week before St. Patrick’s Day is the perfect way to show off several! And inspire people to plan the right special green ensemble in advance of March 17th!

Here is a beautiful late 40’s suit worthy of any Hollywood heroine! It is the epitome of femininity!  There is no label in it so I do not know who designed it.

The structure of this suit is just beautiful! Note the princess seamed bodice, wide lapels, shoulder pads of just the right proportions, nipped in waist that tapers to a point in the back elongating the lines of the torso, and the graceful peplum. It is made of wool gaberdine and is lined in rayon crepe of the same green. The skirt is unlined as was customary of the times because women wore half slips under their skirts.

It has hand sewn self-bound buttonholes and black shiny buttons which are probably bakelite. I think it would be perfect worn with black suede pumps and a little black suede box purse and, of course, the perfect little black hat. I think Lauren Bacall would have worn this on Saint Patrick’s Day!

The A-line Skirt

Detail of Peplum Jacket

Detail of Jacket Tailoring

Back View of 1940's Green Suit

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Christian Dior on Hats in 1951 ~ “Now We Come to the Most Pressing Problem of This Time. Shall You or Shall You Not Wear a Hat?”

Friday, March 11th, 2011

Hat from Spring 2011 Dior Collection

“I think that in town you cannot be really dressed without a hat. It is really the completion of your outfit and in another way, it is very often the best way to show your personality. It is easier to express yourself sometimes with your hat than it is with your clothes. Hats are important!

A hat can make you look gay, serious, dignified, happy – or sometimes ugly if you don’t choose it well! A hat is the quintessence of femininity with all the frivolity this word contains!

Women would be very silly not to take advantage of such an efficient weapon of coquetry.

And with hats it is the same as with handbags and your clothes – always select the best possible materials.

In the winter velvet and good quality felts are lovely and very versatile and you can get wonderful, rich colors in those materials.

Fur is lovely, too – and besides being warm a little fur hat is very feminine. If you cannot afford a fur coat but yearn for a little something fur for cold days, then, by all means, have a fur hat!

The line of a hat is just as important, too, as the line of your frock. Too many hats are just  “shapes” cluttered up with numerous decorations in the form os feathers or flowers. If a hat has a good line it will still be attractive without any trimmings as all.

Equally when you have a hat with a good line don’t clutter it up with a bunch of flowers you suddenly have a whim to wear!

For summer, little silk or straw  hats are very nice – and I purposely say “little” because they are much more convenient to have than big ones. You quickly tire of having hats with enormous brims and except on very still summer days  they are difficult to wear elegantly – you do not always want to be holding onto the brim!

Of course on the right day and for the right occasion – like a garden party – nothing is nicer or more provocative than a really big hat, sometimes covered with a profusion of flowers.

For sport or in the country, I do not very much like hats – unless rain wind or strong sun draws them back to their original use which is to cover the head.”  From the entry on Hats in Christian Dior’s Little Dictionary of Fashion published by Abrams in 1951

As Lady Violette I am delighted to see that Christian Dior used  the term important hats! And that he says a hat is one of the best ways to show your personality. And he goes on to say that hats are the quintessence of femininity and are such an efficient weapon of coquetry!

A Charmingly Veiled Cocktail Hat - Spring 2011 Dior Collection

The hats pictured are by John Gallianos for Dior 2011 Spring – just before his firing! Too bad! He was and still is a brilliant designer!

See my next post for a Dior hat in an ensemble designed by the master himself.

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Christian Dior on Scarves in 1951 “Scarves can give the final touch to your frock…”

Thursday, March 10th, 2011

Vintage Fleurs-de-Lis Silk Scarf

Today I was lucky to make two wonderful finds while browsing in a thrift store ~ a never worn pure silk vintage scarf with hand rolled hems and original tags still attached and a pretty little hardback book titled “The Little Dictionary of Fashion” by Christian Dior! It was written in 1951, published by Abrams, is full of good, still  pertinent advice, loaded with charm and fun to read. Since I have been writing about scarves I went right to the S section to find out what Christian Dior had to say. French women are famous for their ability to style and wear scarves with tremendous flair. In 1951 CD said,

“In many cases a scarf gives a final touch to a frock. But you have to experiment and try many ways of wearing a scarf before you find the way that suits you best. It is a very personal matter; and what one woman does will not necessarily suit another. A scarf is to a woman what a necktie is to a man and the way you tie it is part of your personality.” Christian Dior

I love the way he used the word frock instead of dress or outfit. It sounds quaint today but it is so charming and feminine! Throughout the book he also puts great emphasis on individual personality.

The scarf is an 18″ silk square. It is printed with Fleurs-de-Lis which are stylized irises that have long been associated with the French monarchy. This shape and size of scarf can be tied in many ways. I’ll experiment and demonstrate several of them soon. Fortunately this pretty little scarf is still in perfect condition. I was lucky to find the green scarf (just in time for Saint Patrick’s Day!) with its stylized iris flowers and the book for only $2.99 each!

Christian Dior would have approved of this too because he also says, in the introduction of his book, “It is possible for a woman to be elegant without spending very much money on her clothes, if she is careful to choose the clothes that suit her personality. Simplicity, good taste and grooming are the three fundamentals of good dressing and these do not cost money. First you must study yourself. Learn to know what suits you and what does not. And study your own needs.”

 

 

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