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Lady Violette

The Romantic Lifestyle

Posts Tagged ‘Textiles’

Beaded and Metallic Gold Embroidered Black Velvet Evening Handbag, Belt, Buttons, Scarf/Shawl ~ A Vintage Ensemble Inspired by Matching Accessories from India Circa 1930’s in Razia Zardozi Style

Sunday, July 24th, 2011

Vintage Ensemble Featuring Accessories From India Decorated in Metallic Embroidery & Glass Beads & Stones ~ Silk Satin Evening Dress, Black Silk & Velvet Belt with Gold Embroidery, Sheer Black Silk Chiffon Scarf/Shawl Trimmed with Gold Edgings & Red Glass Stones, and Embroidered East Indian Evening Bag ~ all circa 1930. On the Table a Pair of Black Suede Evening Pumps Trimmed with a Satin Bow by Palter De Lisa circa 1950 with Large Black Velvet, Pearl and Metallic Gold Embroidered Buttons Used as Shoe Clips. Jewelry by Liz Palacios San Francisco.

I am posting more photos of the Vintage Black Velvet Indian Embroidered & Metallic Beaded Evening Purses and adding pictures of the matching accessory items ~ belt, evening scarf/stole/shawl, and buttons ~ of the same textile technique/ ethnic art form so you can view them as I described them in my post yesterday. I am often inspired to put together an entire look by a key piece, such as one of these evening bags, or by a technique used to create a textile or embellishment. I love this look! It reminds me of English  Elizabethan gowns, the glamorous movie stars of the 1930’s and graceful East Indian women in saris all at the same time. I have borrowed a little something from each of them to achieve my own unique look with items from my eclectic collection.

The Three Embroidered Evening Clutches that Constitute My Mini Collection of 1930's Indian Embroidered & Beaded Evening BagsI am often asked where I find the items in my collections and I am going to try to explain that as often as possible. It is not an easy answer ~ I don't just go to one place and buy them! They are hard to find, It often takes years of searching and a good trained eye to spot them. I patiently sift through immense amounts of junk to eventually locate just one treasure - I go to antique stores - where you find things at the highest prices, because they often know what they have. I also shop flea markets, fun because you never know what you might find there. Thrift stores, charity shops, church bazaars, rummage sales, hospital donation shops, the Goodwill, (but I don't find much there as they are now selling anything they recognize as special on their eBay stores.) The Salvation Army is doing eBay as well. I buy and sell on eBay sometimes, but I feel it is very difficult. I prefer to see, inspect, hold and decide on an item in person. Garage and yard sales, estate sales, sometimes auctions, antique malls with many dealers in small booths, consignment shops, estate sales, asking friends if I know they are moving, or not interested in those goodies they inherited in a trunk when Grandma dies, elderly friends who are downsizing and moving into retirement homes, the retirement homes themselves often hold senior sales where the residents can sell things they are no longer using and do not have space for. These are a great source for well cared for vintage hats, purses, costume jewelry, treasured sets of fancy antique dishes, vases, even old wedding dresses. I even got a sewing machine and button hole attachment at one of these. The people are nice and love to see their things go to young women who appreciate them.

Embroidered Evening Handbag #1 ~ Circa 1930

 

 

 

Embroidered Evening Handbag #2 ~ India Circa 1930

 

 

 

 

I am one of those younger women whose taste can be summed up like this: If your grandmother liked it I probably will too. So these ladies love me! I have bought something they had on display and started to talk to them and they make appointments with me to come back to see other things they think I might like that they hadn’t brought along to this sale. They love to have me over to tea and show me things and tell me all about the stories of their youth, when they wore the items and what life used to be like back in the old days. I also enjoy this! I have ended up making some wonderful friends and great connections by spending the time listening to these women tell me the stories. One lady, of 96 years had just recently remarried! She was like a young bride of 28! Full of joy, but also full of the wisdom of her age. She had moved out of a large home to live with her new husband and had had to downsize considerably. She was selling many of her belongings on Craig’s list. I answered her add for a Singer Featherweight 221 sewing machine. During the discussion she told me she had sewed all her own clothes for many years and still had all the patterns. I expressed interest! She was really pleased! When she returned from her honeymoon I visited her in her new home and she gave me her life in sewing patterns. And the stories of each outfit she had made and the fabrics she had used. I have Dorothy’s life in her sewing patterns! And it is an amazing story. I am planning to post this story on my blog at some point.

Embroidered India Evening Handbag #3 ~ Circa 1930

These Indian Handbags came respectively from a #1) thrift store in Seattle, WA, in 2002, #2) an elderly lady who was moving in Portland, OR, in 2000, and #3) a church charity store in Houston, Texas in 1998.

Collecting vintage items is both fun and frustrating. One of my friends who is in IT and is an online gamer compares it to World of Warcraft for guys! He says it is all about the joy of the hunt. You never know what you may find! what unique and fantastic treasure may be lurking around the corner!  Once he came up with this explanation I seemed to be able to be more tolerant of his interest in gaming and he understood why I like going to estate sales and antique malls and charity and  thrift stores! But he won’t go with me! He has not got the patience for it. Thus he doesn’t get the rewards – except for the current favor I have done him by showing him that you can find fantastic designer and vintage silk men’s ties in the same types of places I find my treasures! And these are good for the times you have to dress up in business suits and look good and don’t want to spend $130 t0 $180 on a new tie! The vintage ties are often more beautiful and in great condition. And I find them for $2 to $12 versus the $80 To $200 range in better men’s stores.

Besides, recycling is so good for the environment! these lovely items from the past are in good shape and beautifully made and deserve to be used and appreciated again! And your style is so much more fascinating and original if you mix new and old together to create something totally original and unique!

The Three Exotic East Indian Evening Handbags Juxtaposed ~ Circa 1930's ~ Black Velvet Decorated with Metallic Embroidery, Cabochon Stones and Glass Beads

So, here are the Three Vintage Indian Circa 1930’s Handbags, again, and I will also list the matching accessory items I have found over the years: A slim velvet evening belt trimmed in the same metallic embroidery, two large buttons which can be used to fasten a black jacket or cape or to decorate a pair of evening pumps, and a sheer black silk chiffon scarf/stole/shawl trimmed with matching embroidery and stones at each end to wrap around your neck or drape seductively around your shoulders! I saw a gorgeous black velvet evening jacket completely covered in this metallic embroidery and cabochon stones and beads attributed to the 1930’s in a thrift shop in Philladelphia. It was totally encrusted and weighed a ton. It was also an extra large size and extremely expensive. Due to the huge size and weight of the piece I couldn’t even consider it! I am small and it would have drowned me, but the decorative work was utterly amazing! I mention this so that you know these pieces exist and you might be lucky enough to find one! I think the jacket was priced at about $500. It looked as if it had never been worn. I think these kinds of items survived because they were very dressy and people only wore them for special occasions then kept them carefully wrapped and boxed up in a drawer or closet. This is good for us as they have survived in good shape for us to rediscover and use again!

Shoes Trimmed with Buttons as Shoe Clips

The pretty evening bags surface from time to time. I think they were popular gift items too and also were given as Christmas, birthday, anniversary and Valentine’s Day presents. I have a theory that beautiful bags, gloves, scarves, men’s silk ties, lingerie and costume jewelry often fell into that category and being valued as special occasion treasures were worn very little. I have often found them in their original boxes or paper wrappings with the gift card enclosed ! ~ from 80 years ago!

Details ~ Handbag, Belt & Shawl

This is utterly amazing! I posted a blog about my three Indian Evening Bags yesterday, and began to write and photograph this piece. Then I had to go to an appointment and found another one that very afternoon in a horribly junky little thrift store in Kirkland, WA. It was just dumped into the filthy purse bins in the back of the store. Fortunately it hadn’t been crushed! But it was very dirty. I brought it home and cleaned it up and now it looks quite good! It is different that these three! It has more green stones. I have to mend it a bit, but then I will post photos so you can see it. I’ll post a photo of all four of them so you can see how the designs differ. I love the fact that they are handmade and no two seem to be alike!

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Recycling Inspiration – a Beautiful Wedding Dress

Monday, June 6th, 2011

The Parachute Wedding Dress

This is both beautiful and inspiring! A wedding-dress made from a life-saving WWII parachute – this was not the only one – many parachutes were brought home to girlfriends who fashioned everything from lingerie to their wedding gowns out of them. But this one is especially lovely and clever! I like the way she devised to make the skirt short in the front and long in the back! So clever. these parachutes contained up to 40 yards of silk so you could do quite a lot  with that!

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Lady Violette de Courcy’s Etsy Store is Now Up and Running! Featuring Romantic Tea Dresses and Beautiful Vintage Lingerie

Friday, June 3rd, 2011

A 1930's Style Silk Chiffon Tea Dance Dress by Ralph Lauren Now Available at Lady Violette de Courcy's Shop on Etsy

Here is the link to my Etsy store which is under the name of Violette de Courcy .

A Vintage Black Flowered and Beaded Rayon Tea Dress with Flutter Sleeves and Multi-Layered Skirt

This is how you search for it: ladyviolettedecourcy (for those of you who are having trouble finding it.) Here is the live link: and I hope it works for you this time. Lady Violette de Courcy’s Etsy Store . Currently featuring some lovely summer dresses!

Olga's Elegant Long Fire Engine Red Vintage Nylon Robe - Definitely Fit for a Siren!

And scrumptious Lingerie!

Miss Elaine's Long Black Nylon and Lace Nightgown from Lady Violette de Courcy on Etsy

You can costume your own romantic summer get away or a 1930’s film noir at the Lady Violette de Courcy Etsy Store! A source for lovely wedding honey moon attire.

 

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Interior Construction of the Moygashel Linen Cut Work Lace Dress

Monday, May 30th, 2011

The Cutwork Linen Dress

I have taken additional photos showing the backside or wrong side – the inside – of the dress, the extraordinarily large seams and deep hem. This would be of interest to anyone wanting to make such a dress. or alter it as it is styled for a form hugging fit. It is highly unusual. the dress is smooth and tightly fitted from the outside and series of thick knotty seams on the inside. My two previous blog posts show more details. I am providing some photos of the inside seams and portions of the dress taken on the right side laid out flat for comparison:

Flat Front View of the Dress

Flat Back View of the Dress

Skirt Back Shown on the Right Side

Skirt Front from the Right Side

Skirt Front Shown on the Right Side

Bodice Back Shown From the Right Side

Bodice Front From the Right Side

An Inside View of One of the Side Seam. all Side Seams in this Dress are at Least 1" Deep.

The Deep Hem and Wide Center Back Seam Demonstrated on the Wrong of that the Bottom Back of the Skirt

The 5 " Deep Hem and Wide Center Back Seam Shown on the Wrong Side of the Kick Pleat at the Center Back Skirt Hem

A Long View of the Wide Center Back Seam and The Metal Zipper Which Helps Date the Dress as Pre 1970

The Wide Center Back Seam - Demonstrated in Relation to the Normal Standard Size Width of the Zipper

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More on the Mysterious Moygashel Linen Wiggle Dress

Saturday, May 28th, 2011

The Sheath Style Dress in all its Glory

This Natural Cream Colored Heavy Irish Linen Cutwork Lace Wiggle Dress is an Absolutely Amazing Example of This Rare Type of Hand Done Lace Which is Rarely Seen in Clothing!

Close Up Of Cut Work Lace Flowers

I think it may have been made to wear as a wedding dress in the 1960s. It is a small size but has very wide seams (more than 1 Inch deep) throughout which would allow it to be altered considerably for a custom fit.

The hem is also 5 inches Deep! Therefore, upon close examination the dress I found that it could be let out 2 inches on each side and 2 Inches in the back! And made up to 4 Inches longer!  Thus I wonder what its story is?

Deep Center Back of Hem "Walking Slit"

It is beautifully shaped and well made, but I have to wonder – given the wide seams and hem treatment – was it originally a somewhat larger dress that was expertly remade by a professional seamstress to fit some very small woman as a wedding dress? And wisely left in tact so that it could be altered back again for someone who was not so small Look at the 5″ deep hem in the photos below. And it is folded over an inch at the top before folding for the hem which makes a toal of 6 extra inches at the bottom of the skirt!

 

Walking Slit at Center Back hem Flipped Back to Reveal the 5" Deep Hem!

The fabric is really strong and tough as true untreated sturdy pure Irish linen is famous for. The fabric was made for a dress not for a table cloth or any such thing. You can tell this if you know sewing and fabrics because of the way it is cut and woven around the neckline, the armholes and the hemline. It is designed to out line the neckline and arm holes with strategically placed lace points that echo the flower petals. It is a fascinating example of its kind and absolutely exquisite! here are photos showing the neckline and armhole treatments from both the back and the front:

Note the Neckline and Armholes

Note the Neckline

Center Front of Neckline

I am going to show the dress to a textile restorer who works at the Henry Art Museum to see what she thinks the histories of this dress and the cloth it is made from are and get her feelings on remaking and resizing it now are. I think it can be done and that may be a better option at this time! I will decide whether or not to keep the dress or sell it at that time.

Taking the dress apart to remake it would require hand picking out every seam including removing the metal zipper stitch by stitch so as not to break a single thread or fiber. There are darts in the front and back of the dress to mold it to the body around the bust and waist. These I would leave in because the cutwork is made around them and includes them. they cannot be taken out without ruining the lace. Darts also slant downward  from tops of the armholes to shape them against the shoulders. The dress is essentially sculpted fabric – sculpted linen lace formed to cover a body. The more closely I inspect it the more amazed I am by the way in which it is made!

It would be a huge amount of work to take it apart and remake it – a real labor of love – but I think worth it in order to be able to wear it! I am now intrigued!

The Moygashel Linen Label is applied sideways at the top and back of the neckline near the metal zipper.

It currently  measures 17 – 12- 17 flat. that is 34 inch bust, 24 inch waist, 34 inch hips at the seams allowing no ease for movement. Two inches should be allowed for movement which would mean the measurements of the wearer of the dress were 32 – 22 – 32 which is a very thin size. I advise 2 inches for movement because there should be no stress or strain put on the lace. The immensely deep seams, let out and carefully re-sewn could possibly increase the dress to a size 2 – 4 in modern day sizing. Now that I have determined that I can let my breath out! There is hope! I might be able to restore and remake this dress to the size it was originally designed to be and that might actually fit me! ( I am a modern size 4.) I hate my clothes to be tight. Tight is very uncomfortable!

Spot at Waistline Area on Left Side

Note the location of the one spot on the dress at the waistline area on left side

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

All around the design of the lace and cutwork pattern fits into the shaping of the garment. There are no holes or defects throughout the piece. Currently there is one spot located at the waistline on the left side. I have not tried to clean it yet. I will take it to a professional to see what they advise. It is a brown spot. I have no idea what it is. It is about 3/8 of an inch and smudge like and it looks like it will come out. If it didn’t it could be covered by a belt. There is no belt, but a matching leather or self fabric covered one would look good.

There is always more to these vintage textiles and dresses than initially meets the eye! In this case the deep seams and hemline and the potential for restoring the dress to its originally intended size – the size the actual textile was made to fit exactly! And a more realistic one for today’s figures and wearability. I am intrigued and inspired! I have wanted to make some dresses from lace doilies and table clothes which I intended to use as decorative motifs – but this is way beyond what I was envisioning! It is really inspiring and special. I’ll post more when I know more!

 

 

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