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Lady Violette

The Romantic Lifestyle

Posts Tagged ‘History’

Lady Violette’s Diaries ~ Do check This Out! ~ What Do You Think?

Tuesday, September 20th, 2011

This is a Free Premiere to a Fake Movie! : It is produced by Heineken Beer as an Advertisement for their Beer. The movie is is titled Lady Violette’s Diaries. You can watch it by clicking on the live link below. I urge you to do so as it is really really bizarre! It is short so it will only require a couple of minutes for you to watch it. Please read this first so you understand what you are watching.

Being the real Lady Violette de Courcy I have to try to keep up with what is happening in the media regarding me, my image. and my name. Yesterday, quite by chance and unexpectedly, I came across this bizarre entry Lady Violette’s Diaries for a fake “romantic” movie put out as an advertisement for Heineken Beer. At first It really confused me ~ there were hundreds of entries. I couldn’t tell what it was. I could tell that it was creepy and weird and I found it disturbing.

It took a beautiful name and romantic concept and mocked it. It promoted drinking oneself into oblivion in a sleazy dirty pub as an alternative. It promoted immature and irresponsible male drinking behavior at the expense of mocking women’s desire to be inspired by something interesting and beautiful. By this I mean it endorsed wanting to go to a bar with your buddies and get drunk as super cool and being dragged out n a date with a woman to see a romantic historical movie about a woman’s life as tedious, boring and a complete drag. There was no actual movie ~ just the concept of one, and some initial credits on the screen, but the idea of what they (the Heineken Beer People and their add agency) endorsed and promoted are as I stated.

You should also note that this commercial was slickly and expensively produced. It costs a great deal to bring something like this, with the commercial production values involved, to the screen!

This is the advertising agencies scam: In their own words! To remember their consumers that it is always better going out with friends for a beer while maintaining an easy going attitude than becoming an adult and losing some sacred moment with friends. (Note this “sacred moment with friends” is a group of bawdy coworkers gathered in a smoky tavern for a few of beers – on which they are becoming decidedly inebriated. ) ~ to illustrate this point they invite many of their beer drinking consumers to a cinema, to view the opening of a new film, Lady Violets’s Diary, or Lady Violette’s Diary (It is spelled both ways!) where they trap them, creating a singular event. (Note: it is implied, with a heavy hand, that attending a romantic movie, which is also intellectual, historical ~ with your girlfriend or wife is a real drag!)

For this occasion they created a few minutes of a fake film based on a very long romantic paradoxical story. This film was shown at the cinema on one selected night. During the screening suddenly appeared the claim, “Are you still with us?” to remind their consumer that “fell in this trap” that it is always better to stay with friends in an entertaining way. (Note: Meaning getting drunk at the local rowdy tavern, ) rather than, attend a romantic, intellectual and most likely historical movie on a date with your girlfriend or wife! or any other kind of  “intellectual” performance or entertainment such at the ballet, an opera or the symphony.

After sitting through some very tedious and long minutes of film credits (Note: for a film that never really happens because it is fake and does not exist! ) they offered the audience an opportunity to watch an action movie (adapted for beer drinkers!) : like G.I.Joe; The Rise of Cobra, etc!

In this commercial the totally bored beer drinking male faction of the audience who were falling asleep has suddenly perked up and found the hidden energy they lacked during the screening of The Diaries of Lady Violette! .

Note: Are the women (wives and girl friends) supposedly going to enjoy the action movie as well? This is not addressed. Personally, I doubt it. And I base this reaction on personal experience!

I had to read the ad agencies comments on this add several times to figure out what they were actually trying to achieve. I found the entire thing insulting and chauvinistic to the max!

This commercial has been shown at the Cannes Film Festival, The Art Director’s Club of Europe and The Art Director’s Club of Italy.

I will be most interested to hear your opinions on this. It certainly makes one think about naming things, the associations in names, film making, and making art. At least if your name actually is Lady Violette de Courcy! Please note: I had no involvement of any kind with this project.

 

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Sharing Collections of Delicate Antique Textiles & Vintage Shoes ~ A Few Important Words of Caution

Saturday, August 20th, 2011

On Parade ~ Six Pairs of Treasured Vintage Alligator Shoes From the Lady Violette Shoe Collection. On the Left From Front to Back: DeLiso Debs, Herbert Levine, Anne Klein. On the Right From Front to Back: Andrew Geller, Via Spiga, Foot Flairs

I am eager to share my enthusiasm for vintage shoes and clothing with anyone who is interested. And I am always happy to share my knowledge and my collections – as long as nothing bad happens to them! I am delighted to be able to blog about them and post pictures and discuss the details with people online. I am pleased that this venue for sharing has evolved because it is so much safer and easier on the vulnerable vintage clothing and shoes to share them this way. Lending your physical collections out can be risky and hard on the delicate items. Please be warned by my past experiences.

Green Vintage Alligator Shoes by Maraolo ~ circa 1980's

I learned this the hard way when I loaned three dozen pairs of prize vintage one of a kind shoes to a venerable institution for display. They displayed them in light boxes which were supposed to be archival and safe for delicate dyes, cloth and leathers. Unfortunately, their museum light boxes turned out to be regular light. Even more unfortunately the dyes in my shoes were bleached or the colors turned by the strong light and the delicate old leathers dried out and shriveled up in some cases. The fabric shoes were bleached out beyond recognition. Just as your skin would be by over exposure to the sun. Remember, leather is skin!

All the shoes loaned out in that display were completely ruined. Fortunately, I had insurance, but it was an awful experience. And the shoes I lost can never be replaced. The worst of it is that I had carefully inquired to be sure the light boxes were safe and the shoes would be protected before they went on display and I was assured, beyond the shadow of a doubt, that the light boxes were museum safe. As it turned out, the people in charge of the loaning and display contracts did not know what they were talking about!

Unfortunately I have heard horror stories of owners of delicate vintage clothing and accessories loaning them to local museums and department stores to display in their exterior facing store windows. The antiques are exposed to natural sunlight in store window displays. The sun exposure lasts all day, day after day. And, within a very short time, (it can happen in just one day!) the delicate old clothing and accessories are bleached and damaged beyond recognition by the sun! And permanently ruined. I think it is absolutely tragic to have something exquisite that has lasted decades or generations or centuries ruined in an instant of carelessness! It is completely irresponsible and tragic!

A large and very well known (and extremely successful) store in my city expanded a few years ago and sent out a call to the local citizenry for “interesting fashion objects that might have been bought there over the last 100 years” to put on display during the month of their grand opening. People with interesting items to loan sprang out of nowhere. The array of unique things was amazing and filled every store window. People were eager to participate and contribute to this bit of local history. Special things like Grandma’s wedding dress with a 30 foot train and Grandpa’s wedding tuxedo from 1910 were graciously loaned for their historical relevance and sentimental value.

Alligator Pumps by Foot Flairs ~ circa 1950's

Incidentally no one was compensated for loaning out their priceless family and personal treasures. Unfortunately, every article was returned to the owners, after being on display for a month, with terrible sun damage. The department store did not take any responsibility for any of this. They did not even apologize! Instead, they would not answer phone calls or inquiries or respond to calls or letters from concerned and disappointed owners when they received their damaged antique textiles back after the show. No one knew what to do because this place who had borrowed and displayed the items was well known and well respected in the community and therefore, expected to be responsible and know what they were doing! They didn’t. And when it came right down to it, they didn’t care!

Alligator Springolators By Beth Levine ~ circa 1950's

The same thing, essentially,  happened to me when my vintage shoes were returned to me, damaged, after I loaned them out for display as described above! Had I heard about the antique clothing incident prior to my own experience I would have been much more guarded that I was. I only learned about the above people who loaned things for the ill-fated window displays after my own shoe loan fiasco!

What I learned from this experience is that big businesses and corporations love to associate themselves with interesting people who have interesting collections that make them (the stores in this case) look good. These corporations are completely self serving. If something goes wrong, as in the cases with the antique clothing described above, or my vintage shoes being on display, they vanish, taking no responsibility for the items or individuals involved. This was all very unfortunate. Not to mention impolite and inconsiderate!

Another thing I learned from this is never to let other people handle my collections when I am not present. They will not be respectful or careful enough. No matter what they say! They do not have the knowledge or experience in most cases to handle valuable and delicate antiques with proper care. Now, if other people want to view or photograph my collections, I insist on being present so I can watch over the entire process.

I also insist on being paid for my time. After the shoe collection fiasco described here I also make sure the collection is adequately insured. However, insurance doesn’t completely protect one – it cannot even replace items like these because there are no replacements to be had! It can only compensate you with a little money if you are lucky, for irreplaceable items you have lost. This isn’t enough to make it worth it. I know because I have been through it.

Photograph by Frederic Lehrman, styled by Violette de Courcy.

Shoes from The Lady Violette Shoe Collection.

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Recycling Inspiration – a Beautiful Wedding Dress

Monday, June 6th, 2011

The Parachute Wedding Dress

This is both beautiful and inspiring! A wedding-dress made from a life-saving WWII parachute – this was not the only one – many parachutes were brought home to girlfriends who fashioned everything from lingerie to their wedding gowns out of them. But this one is especially lovely and clever! I like the way she devised to make the skirt short in the front and long in the back! So clever. these parachutes contained up to 40 yards of silk so you could do quite a lot  with that!

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More on the Mysterious Moygashel Linen Wiggle Dress

Saturday, May 28th, 2011

The Sheath Style Dress in all its Glory

This Natural Cream Colored Heavy Irish Linen Cutwork Lace Wiggle Dress is an Absolutely Amazing Example of This Rare Type of Hand Done Lace Which is Rarely Seen in Clothing!

Close Up Of Cut Work Lace Flowers

I think it may have been made to wear as a wedding dress in the 1960s. It is a small size but has very wide seams (more than 1 Inch deep) throughout which would allow it to be altered considerably for a custom fit.

The hem is also 5 inches Deep! Therefore, upon close examination the dress I found that it could be let out 2 inches on each side and 2 Inches in the back! And made up to 4 Inches longer!  Thus I wonder what its story is?

Deep Center Back of Hem "Walking Slit"

It is beautifully shaped and well made, but I have to wonder – given the wide seams and hem treatment – was it originally a somewhat larger dress that was expertly remade by a professional seamstress to fit some very small woman as a wedding dress? And wisely left in tact so that it could be altered back again for someone who was not so small Look at the 5″ deep hem in the photos below. And it is folded over an inch at the top before folding for the hem which makes a toal of 6 extra inches at the bottom of the skirt!

 

Walking Slit at Center Back hem Flipped Back to Reveal the 5" Deep Hem!

The fabric is really strong and tough as true untreated sturdy pure Irish linen is famous for. The fabric was made for a dress not for a table cloth or any such thing. You can tell this if you know sewing and fabrics because of the way it is cut and woven around the neckline, the armholes and the hemline. It is designed to out line the neckline and arm holes with strategically placed lace points that echo the flower petals. It is a fascinating example of its kind and absolutely exquisite! here are photos showing the neckline and armhole treatments from both the back and the front:

Note the Neckline and Armholes

Note the Neckline

Center Front of Neckline

I am going to show the dress to a textile restorer who works at the Henry Art Museum to see what she thinks the histories of this dress and the cloth it is made from are and get her feelings on remaking and resizing it now are. I think it can be done and that may be a better option at this time! I will decide whether or not to keep the dress or sell it at that time.

Taking the dress apart to remake it would require hand picking out every seam including removing the metal zipper stitch by stitch so as not to break a single thread or fiber. There are darts in the front and back of the dress to mold it to the body around the bust and waist. These I would leave in because the cutwork is made around them and includes them. they cannot be taken out without ruining the lace. Darts also slant downward  from tops of the armholes to shape them against the shoulders. The dress is essentially sculpted fabric – sculpted linen lace formed to cover a body. The more closely I inspect it the more amazed I am by the way in which it is made!

It would be a huge amount of work to take it apart and remake it – a real labor of love – but I think worth it in order to be able to wear it! I am now intrigued!

The Moygashel Linen Label is applied sideways at the top and back of the neckline near the metal zipper.

It currently  measures 17 – 12- 17 flat. that is 34 inch bust, 24 inch waist, 34 inch hips at the seams allowing no ease for movement. Two inches should be allowed for movement which would mean the measurements of the wearer of the dress were 32 – 22 – 32 which is a very thin size. I advise 2 inches for movement because there should be no stress or strain put on the lace. The immensely deep seams, let out and carefully re-sewn could possibly increase the dress to a size 2 – 4 in modern day sizing. Now that I have determined that I can let my breath out! There is hope! I might be able to restore and remake this dress to the size it was originally designed to be and that might actually fit me! ( I am a modern size 4.) I hate my clothes to be tight. Tight is very uncomfortable!

Spot at Waistline Area on Left Side

Note the location of the one spot on the dress at the waistline area on left side

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

All around the design of the lace and cutwork pattern fits into the shaping of the garment. There are no holes or defects throughout the piece. Currently there is one spot located at the waistline on the left side. I have not tried to clean it yet. I will take it to a professional to see what they advise. It is a brown spot. I have no idea what it is. It is about 3/8 of an inch and smudge like and it looks like it will come out. If it didn’t it could be covered by a belt. There is no belt, but a matching leather or self fabric covered one would look good.

There is always more to these vintage textiles and dresses than initially meets the eye! In this case the deep seams and hemline and the potential for restoring the dress to its originally intended size – the size the actual textile was made to fit exactly! And a more realistic one for today’s figures and wearability. I am intrigued and inspired! I have wanted to make some dresses from lace doilies and table clothes which I intended to use as decorative motifs – but this is way beyond what I was envisioning! It is really inspiring and special. I’ll post more when I know more!

 

 

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The Original Description For the City or Paris Goldenrod Hat!

Wednesday, May 18th, 2011

The Lovely Goldenrod Hat From the City of Paris

Goldenrod Colored Fur Felt Midinette Beret Hat from The City of Paris

This is a Goldenrod Colored Fluffy Fur Felt Stylized Beret style Hat made by the French designer Midinette for the grand San Francisco department store, The City of Paris and labeled accordingly. It was made in the early 1960’s. It appears to have never been worn or was worn only once or twice and was stored carefully in a hat box. It is clean and in excellent condition. It measures 21 inches inside the brim circumfrence. Inside the hat is stamped Empress Body made in Western Germany. The brim trim and bow are made of a stiffened knit fabric. There is a lot of elegant hand sewing and hand work on this lovely hat. I worked in NYC for a couture hat designer in the 1990’s  and learned to recognize and appreciate these techniques.

I found that this hat can be worn in at least 20 ways! See all the photos! I was only limited by my imagination. And my imagination was only limited by the fact that I had to get some other things done!

Inside View

I tried the hat on tilting and turning it in every direction I could think of. It is very versatile. For example, the bow can be worn in the front or in the back! It is adorable either way. Or you can position the bow to be worn on the side, tilted forward, up or down – front back or sideways! It can be worn over a French roll if you have long hair, or a bob tilted like a saucy beret. It would be darling over a short haircut too! I photographed the Midinette for city of Paris Goldenrod Hat in many positions and from many angles to give you ideas on how to position it on yourself. I was having so much fun figuring them out! The sky seems to be the limit with this piece! It has loads of personality! And I think it would work for many women of many styles and many ages! From a Gigi Ingenue to a Sophisticated Socialite to a First Lady! I could see it on one of the stylistas in Mad Men with a belted black sheath and matching yellow gloves, or on Michelle Obama with a black pencil skirt and chic silk print blouse! It would look lovely accented with gold jewelry! I would wear it myself as a stiffened high crowned French Schoolgirl Beret – think Madeline of Paris – with black capri pants, red patent ballet flats, and a short  black or yellow or tweed swing coat. The possibilities seem endless!

The ways you can wear this little beauty are only limited by your imagination…I can see the right person wearing it to church with an elegant matching suit or an artsy Bohemian type wearing it to a gallery opening with wide legged pants and long flowing hair………………New images of women in this Midiette Goldenrod Hat just keep popping up in my mind – like flowers popping into bloom in a meadow overnight!

Designer's Label

Incidentally, If you like the Midinette Goldenrod Felt Hat you might also like The Issa of London 1970’s geometric print silk jersey wrap dress I have listed. I think they are darling together and would combine to make a stunning ensemble!

I love vintage clothing and the history of fashion and I have amassed a vast personal collection over the last 20 years. Please check back often as I will be listing many more very special unique pieces over the next few weeks. I am at the point where I have to whittle down as I have no more space! Everything I have collected I have chosen for myself. You can be sure it is very special as my standards are very high. Alas, it is time to edit a bit and pass on some of my things to other people who will enjoy them. I do love to help people assemble wardrobes for life and outfits for special occasions. I have many things to list. It will take some time to sort through them, photograph and get them up. Please be patient and keep checking back. I will be happy to try to find you something unique from the depths of my collection if you have a special request as well. I always enjoy such a challenge. I just love matching a special piece or co-ordinating a costume for a special person or occasion. You never know! I just might have the very thing you are wishing for! Thank You for looking! And please visit again! Lady Violette

For my blog readers, this was the original description I wrote to accompany my listing to sell the hat on eBay for the listing of The Goldenrod Hat. It was accompanied by many of the pictures showing the ways it can be worn which I put on yesterdays blog post! This is how much work is involved showing and selling a used vintage item online!

Additionally you must answer many inquiries and re-list the item several times! I finally sold it at a substantial discount after 9 months! A crazy difficult sale wouldn’t you say? Poor little hat is worth more than all that! And it is such a cute hat! I really do miss it!

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