The Italian company Garolini made beautiful feminine shoes that were extremely popular in the 1970’s high fashion world. Shoes for La Dolce Vita! Here is a lovely pair done in cream leather with delicate straps wrapping around the heel and buckling at the ankle. The vamp is designed, cut and stitched to look like leather cut linen lace. I think these shoes work beautifully with this Moygashal Linen Cut Work Lace Dress from the same time period! A perfect wedding ensemble! The dress is actually going to be worn as a wedding dress on September 6th, in New York. The perfect girl and the perfect dress found each other!
La Dolce Vita ~ Classic 1970 Garolini Evening Sandals in Cream Leather Fashioned Like Cut Work Linen Lace
August 25th, 2011 by violette
My Amazing Quest for Beautiful Liberty of London Vintage Ties
August 21st, 2011 by violette
A while back I wrote a post about my Liberty of London Scarf collection. That is one of my favorite blog posts I have done yet!
After doing it I received a nice response from the Liberty of London Social Media Team complimenting me on my scarf collection, writing and photographs. They seamed really pleased that I had the collection of their vintage scarves and had put up the photos to share them. I have been thinking about that ever since as I have several other Liberty items. I love the fabrics. I realize I have scarves, skirts, blouses, and now men’s ties! I even have some makeup in packages designed by Liberty of London in collaboration with Mac Cosmetics.
Because the scarves go so beautifully and comfortably around women’s necks I felt it was logical to explore what went around men’s necks next! I have seen artistic and fashionable men wear one of the Liberty of London Scarves occasionally and personally I think it looks great ~ but, let’s face it, not many men are wearing ascots these days! That was popular in Victorian times and in the 1940’s and 50’s. Men are getting really casual about their dress in the last couple of decades. They hardly even wear ties anymore! But they were in fashion for everyman in the middle of the last century! Doesn’t that phrase sound long ago? I feel like I just said something straight out of Oscar Wilde! The Importance of Being Ernest, perhaps, because I am earnest about this!
In the 1950’s, 60’s and very early 70’s Liberty of London made elegant ties for men out of their signature prints and fabrics. The earlier ones were traditional rather narrow width styles in the 1950’s and 60’s, elegantly done, in paisleys and small traditional silk prints and often utilized many of the subdued English Arts and Crafts type botanical prints in silks and wools. These suited the traditional English Tailored Gentleman Style of dressing very well.
Then, with the Flower Child Style eruption in the 1960’s bold full blown colorful flower patterns became popular. Liberty of London’s ties were often wider and more dramatic in both shape and coloring. They were made from some of the more flamboyant archival floral prints from the Liberty of London Fabric Collection. I have seen them done in cotton, silk, and wool challis. The Liberty designers also issued new prints to meet the 1960’s fashion world’s demand for color and big flowers. Liberty’s style was particularly suited for this opportunity! As the demand for these more flamboyant men’s ties emerged some women’s scarves were also issued in brighter palettes for the more fashion forward. Somebody in the marketing department of Liberty was very wisely looking ahead ~ making sure to attract a younger clientele for the present and future success of the company. Liberty of London has always been very aware of its market combined with what is happening in the society at any given time. That is one of their very strong points as a company.
The mainstream fashion world’s high point for popularity for mens’ Liberty of London ties was the 1960’s. They were coveted by hip dressers in the fashion forward cities in the United States, Canada and Western Europe. That fad died down in 1970’s, but Liberty, of course, continued to make traditional ties as they always had for their English Tailored Gentlemen Style customers. Elegant, subdued and distinctive these ties could be spotted a mile away by those in the know. I saw them now and then on distinguished gentlemen.
This is a good point to mention that the Liberty of London Company is very British and steadfast in the sense that they always can be relied upon to consistently produce certain types of old reliable items that their permanent admirers want – fashion fads notwithstanding.
I became really interested in exploring the Liberty of London print ties right after writing my blog post on the Liberty scarves. I had long been aware of them, but I had never owned any before that. Two things happened to whet my appetite for finding some. My general resurgence of interest in all things Liberty of London because of my scarf tying and writing post and secondly, the fact that a friend of mine asked me to help him shop for and co~ordinate a business wardrobe. We went shopping for men’s clothes for 2 days – in a big hurry because he had to leave for Tokyo for a week of meetings, and being in IT in Seattle, had been dressing casually for work for the last 10 years. He had no dress clothes! We had to do everything at once. That is hard and I do not recommend it. You ideally need to allow more time to co~ordinate things and get alterations done!
We flew into action. I must admit I am very good at this and I really enjoy personal wardrobe consulting. I knew what stores to go to for what brands and what was on sale. This man is very tall and thin and has a hard time finding ready made shirts and jackets with long enough sleeves and slim bodies ~ as well as pants with small waists and long enough inseams. This is one reason he hates going shopping and puts it off as long as possible. We bought everything! And after getting the main pieces down we got to the fun part ~ selecting ties. Until we looked at the prices! The new silk designer ties are really expensive! As much as, or more than, women’s designer scarves! My friend had sticker shock! We had to buy three because we had no time to search for bargains. He had to get alterations done and leave town packed by the next day. I had an alterations connection who was willing to do a rush job. We got him packed, and off to Tokyo looking fantastic with enough clothes for a week of business meetings in the very critical Tokyo design and advertising world where the men are very fashion conscious. They even flash their labels to show you who designed what they are wearing. They are absolute competitive fashion sharks! The modern day version of the dandies of the French court.
His clothes worked out. Everything was a hit. While he did business in Tokyo I got busy learning about vintage ties. I went online and searched for vintage tie dealers and looked at their offerings and prices. They were considerably less expensive than the boutique and department store ties we had just looked at and had to buy in the shops due to the rush we were in. I memorized the desirable designer names and absorbed their looks. I made myself a mental tie dictionary. Ties are complicated! And very sophisticated. New ones, as I mentioned above, are very costly. I decided to hit the local thrift shops, consignment and vintage shops to see what I could find. Ties are something I like to see, feel and inspect in person. ties are very sensual.
I live in Seattle, WA. Men have not been dressing up much for work in the IT industry here for decades. For me this was very fortunate. No one was buying ties and there were lots to be had. Especially lots of awful ones! These little resale shops were loaded with possibilities! This was how I began my Liberty Tie Collection. I searched for vintage ties, knowing what kind I was hoping to find and after looking at about 1,000 truly, finally, found one Liberty of London vintage tie!
I was spurred on! About 500 ties later, I found another one! About 2,000 ties after that, yet another! And so on. Last week, I had four and decided it was time to photograph them to write this post. So I did. Then, driving home from town last night, I stopped at the Goodwill and jackpot! I found yet another one! I now have five! Altogether 5 Liberty of London vintage ties. 5! I am so excited! And, just so you know, I have to get excited to write about these things!
And I must admit I have also picked up many other ties that are really nice from different designers as well. I now have a basic collection of about 40, altogether, great men’s vintage ties. Why? You may wonder, being a woman? Well, because I like the fabrics and the way they are made, and I decided it would be fun to have them around to loan to my male friends who are always needing help with their clothes! I am also figuring out ways to use them myself and think I will incorporate them into my own wardrobe in some very feminine menswear inspired looks this fall and winter. Something to look forward to! Hopefully I will blog about that! I will certainly try!
I decided the time was ripe, I must write about my Liberty of London Vintage Tie Quest this this very weekend.
As I drove home I thought about this: Vintage shopping takes time. You cannot go to a store because you know you need something and find it right then and there. You have to have a lot of patience and search and search. Over time. I cannot emphasize how long it takes to put together a decent collection of wearable art in this way. It is a constant work in progress. And it requires tremendous self discipline. I am always editing up. I have a rule, I have a limited amount of physical space and I must take as much out of my collections and get rid of it as I bring into them. Thus I am sorting and recycling constantly. I have kept many items for decades and some for only a few months. The hunt is part of the fun. You never know what will be around the next corner, what you may find, what new desire this might kindle within you. And, when you get one of these desires going you have to keep it smoldering in the back of your mind constantly, in order to keep the quest for finding it it fueled. Somehow, sending the message that you want something old and odd or unusual helps it to appear on your horizon. This really works! But you must have patience. Sometimes it takes two years or longer for something special to appear.
This is how it was, as you have read, with the Liberty Vintage Ties!
Then, all of a sudden, as I was driving home I remembered this:
About two years ago, when I was rushing around doing household errands in Target of all places, in Seattle, Washington, I remembered I had seen some men’s Liberty of London print ties for sale! They were part of the Liberty of London for Target collaboration that produced a variety of popular lifestyle accessories, from lamp shades, through throw pillows, clothing and my favorite ~ screen printed bicycles for women and children! I was busy. I was not paying attention. I did not look very hard. I did not buy anything from Liberty of London issued in collaboration with Target that day. In fact, at the time the Target/Liberty campaign was going on I didn’t get into it at all! I missed out on the entire thing! I wish I hadn’t! But I must say, I live in an area where Target is not very active. Very little of that companies special campaigns merchandise make it into the stores in my area. I have since become aware of this because some people I know are collaborating with Target merchandising and PR on developing on their I-phone Application. In fact, one of those very people is the man whom I was helping with his trip to Tokyo business wardrobe.
This guy is a computer person. He is an IT professional. He is also a gamer. He has long teased me for my penchant for vintage shopping and collecting. He recently observed that thrifting is like gaming – it is all about the hunt, the unknown, the quest, what you will find around the next corner when you go out looking, and what that will lead you onto next. The reward, we vintage shoppers get, in our game, is the treasure we find to add to our collection at a price we are willing to pay. He has observed that people who are “addicted” to thrifting are similar to gamers in this way. He uses this as justification for spending much time gaming, of course! Time I think he should be spending some of shopping so that his wardrobe is ready when he needs it!
I do know some thrift shoppers who love to shop because they find it “so relaxing.” these people buy something of everything. I am different. I actually find thrift shopping quite stressfull. I think this is because I am honing in on a particularly small areas of highly specialized and hard to find items. Rare stuff that one hardly ever comes across. And I am way over the thrill of looking through tons of garbage to possibly find it. I actually do not like to have too much stuff around. And all of it must be orderly and neat and in very good condition. I turn down 90% of what I find because it is not pristine enough to fit my standards.
I clean and repair everything as soon as I acquire it if that is necessary. I don’t want to have anything dirty or needing renovation lying around. This, in my opinion, is the advanced stage of successful collecting! These are the ways I have managed to assemble my own collections. I would say that operating within limitations is generally a good guideline. In this case I was looking specifically for the men’s version of the Liberty of London neck pieces ~the ties ~ made in the same time period as my women’s vintage Liberty of London scarves. I was also looking for about the same number of them ~ four or five. I often actually set out with a number like this in mind as I don’t want to feel overwhelmed by having to find or take care of too many. I find that I use and enjoy things if I have numbers of them that are under control.
Photographs of the ties are by Fredric Lehrman
Photographs of the scarves are by Violette de Courcy
Sharing Collections of Delicate Antique Textiles & Vintage Shoes ~ A Few Important Words of Caution
August 20th, 2011 by violette
I am eager to share my enthusiasm for vintage shoes and clothing with anyone who is interested. And I am always happy to share my knowledge and my collections – as long as nothing bad happens to them! I am delighted to be able to blog about them and post pictures and discuss the details with people online. I am pleased that this venue for sharing has evolved because it is so much safer and easier on the vulnerable vintage clothing and shoes to share them this way. Lending your physical collections out can be risky and hard on the delicate items. Please be warned by my past experiences.
I learned this the hard way when I loaned three dozen pairs of prize vintage one of a kind shoes to a venerable institution for display. They displayed them in light boxes which were supposed to be archival and safe for delicate dyes, cloth and leathers. Unfortunately, their museum light boxes turned out to be regular light. Even more unfortunately the dyes in my shoes were bleached or the colors turned by the strong light and the delicate old leathers dried out and shriveled up in some cases. The fabric shoes were bleached out beyond recognition. Just as your skin would be by over exposure to the sun. Remember, leather is skin!
All the shoes loaned out in that display were completely ruined. Fortunately, I had insurance, but it was an awful experience. And the shoes I lost can never be replaced. The worst of it is that I had carefully inquired to be sure the light boxes were safe and the shoes would be protected before they went on display and I was assured, beyond the shadow of a doubt, that the light boxes were museum safe. As it turned out, the people in charge of the loaning and display contracts did not know what they were talking about!
Unfortunately I have heard horror stories of owners of delicate vintage clothing and accessories loaning them to local museums and department stores to display in their exterior facing store windows. The antiques are exposed to natural sunlight in store window displays. The sun exposure lasts all day, day after day. And, within a very short time, (it can happen in just one day!) the delicate old clothing and accessories are bleached and damaged beyond recognition by the sun! And permanently ruined. I think it is absolutely tragic to have something exquisite that has lasted decades or generations or centuries ruined in an instant of carelessness! It is completely irresponsible and tragic!
A large and very well known (and extremely successful) store in my city expanded a few years ago and sent out a call to the local citizenry for “interesting fashion objects that might have been bought there over the last 100 years” to put on display during the month of their grand opening. People with interesting items to loan sprang out of nowhere. The array of unique things was amazing and filled every store window. People were eager to participate and contribute to this bit of local history. Special things like Grandma’s wedding dress with a 30 foot train and Grandpa’s wedding tuxedo from 1910 were graciously loaned for their historical relevance and sentimental value.
Incidentally no one was compensated for loaning out their priceless family and personal treasures. Unfortunately, every article was returned to the owners, after being on display for a month, with terrible sun damage. The department store did not take any responsibility for any of this. They did not even apologize! Instead, they would not answer phone calls or inquiries or respond to calls or letters from concerned and disappointed owners when they received their damaged antique textiles back after the show. No one knew what to do because this place who had borrowed and displayed the items was well known and well respected in the community and therefore, expected to be responsible and know what they were doing! They didn’t. And when it came right down to it, they didn’t care!
The same thing, essentially, happened to me when my vintage shoes were returned to me, damaged, after I loaned them out for display as described above! Had I heard about the antique clothing incident prior to my own experience I would have been much more guarded that I was. I only learned about the above people who loaned things for the ill-fated window displays after my own shoe loan fiasco!
What I learned from this experience is that big businesses and corporations love to associate themselves with interesting people who have interesting collections that make them (the stores in this case) look good. These corporations are completely self serving. If something goes wrong, as in the cases with the antique clothing described above, or my vintage shoes being on display, they vanish, taking no responsibility for the items or individuals involved. This was all very unfortunate. Not to mention impolite and inconsiderate!
Another thing I learned from this is never to let other people handle my collections when I am not present. They will not be respectful or careful enough. No matter what they say! They do not have the knowledge or experience in most cases to handle valuable and delicate antiques with proper care. Now, if other people want to view or photograph my collections, I insist on being present so I can watch over the entire process.
I also insist on being paid for my time. After the shoe collection fiasco described here I also make sure the collection is adequately insured. However, insurance doesn’t completely protect one – it cannot even replace items like these because there are no replacements to be had! It can only compensate you with a little money if you are lucky, for irreplaceable items you have lost. This isn’t enough to make it worth it. I know because I have been through it.
Photograph by Frederic Lehrman, styled by Violette de Courcy.
Shoes from The Lady Violette Shoe Collection.
Storing and Caring For Vintage Shoes
August 19th, 2011 by violette
You might wonder how I store the vast number of shoes in my collection?
This is constantly evolving. I have some shoes, flats, mules, ballets and slipper types, stored in traditional hanging shoe bags on the backs of my closet doors. I have the shoes I wear often stacked in shoe boxes or standing, ready to wear, in neat rows on the floors of my closet. Special shoes that I do not use often are stored in either their original shoe boxes neatly stacked according to maker and designer or color or style, or in the cases of shoes that do not have their original boxes, stored in new shoe boxes all the same size and color carefully labeled on both the top and one end of the box.I have a closet under a stairway in my house that is pretty big so all these shoe boxes are stored stacked in it. It is still roomy enough to get in there to get them out! I do not want to acquire so many that I cannot get at them! For this reason I am editing constantly. I decide to weed out some shoes for one reason or another. It is hard. They are all beautiful. Right now I have about 10 pairs for sale in my Etsy vintage store. They are great, just don’t go with my collection. When you collect you have to be very serious and have discipline. You cannot keep everything!
Because I am currently attempting to photo document all the shoes in my collection I am also going through all of them and repacking them carefully to be sure I have them properly stored. Some old and delicate shoes require me to keep them in archival cloth wrapping rather than tissue paper. I use old scarves for this purpose or pieces of clean cotton cloth cut into squares or rectangles with pinking sheers. I pre-wash the cotton fabric before cutting it into wrapping size pieces to remove any chemicals that could adversely effect the shoes.
Archival storage boxes should be used for very old and delicate shoes. I am in the process of researching the best source of such boxes now.
Shoes in boxes take up more room than they do without boxes. However it is important not to let the shoes knock against each other or get scratched or squashed. Shoes are actually quite delicate and require special handling. When moving large numbers of shoes I have packed them, all in their individual boxes, into large moving boxes. That seems to be the best way to do it so that every surface is protected.
Someone asked me recently if I had those gigantic fancy closets that you see in celebrity homes in magazines with rows and rows of shoes lined up on custom built shelves. The answer is no! I do not! I cannot afford to build such closets in terms of space or financial cost. I also should caution people about storing shoes that way because they are exposed to both light and dust. It is best to keep them covered and stored in darkness in their boxes so that light does not deteriorate the colors or fabric or leather surfaces.
Take good care of your vintage shoes! Think of keeping each special pair of shoes wrapped up in its little blanket carefully tucked into its own little box sleeping peacefully until you are ready to use it again.
Another important point is keeping your vintage shoes clean and dry. After wearing a pair clean it off if necessary, then let it air out completely for a day before putting it away. This way it should last many more decades. Of course, when I acquire a new pair of old shoes I clean them up if necessary and take them to my shoe repair shop if they need any repairs or renovations. Most of them do need cleaning and work when I receive them.
I wear a lot of my shoes. Carefully! I do not wear them out if it is raining, or to walk in tall wet grass for instance! I am cautious about what I expose them to and often carry an extra pair of less special shoes with me if I need to switch into them. I do not wear the oldest ones if they are in danger of falling apart. But, for the most part, I have found that aware wearing of the shoes seems to be good for them. After all they were made to be worn and enjoyed. And I certainly enjoy them!
With proper restoration and care vintage shoes you acquire and collect should last a long time.
The shoes in the photo are a small sampling of my vintage alligator shoe collection. All of them will be discussed and shown in detail in future posts.
Photo by Fredrich Lehrman, styled by Violette de Courcy.
Shoes from the Lady Violette de Courcy Shoe Collection
The Art or Lack of it on Shoeboxes! Some of DeLiso Debs Curious Vintage Boxes…
August 17th, 2011 by violette
I’ve shown several pairs of vintage DeLiso Debs by Palter DeLiso here on my blog and I also happen to have two vintage DeLiso boxes. It is always desirable to keep the original shoe boxes if possible but seldom happened in the vintage shoes in my experience. The boxes were originally only meant to house the shoes, protect them in transport and keep them clean until they reached their owner. Many people threw them away and stored their shoes in closets or hanging shoe bags. I am lucky (I guess, but don’t decide until you see the way they look!) to have two of the early versions of the DeLiso Debs (or however you spell it!) boxes.
I recall seeing a dull gray blue cardboard one with white writing on it that came from the 40’s. I do not have one of those at this time. But the majority of the DeLiso boxes I have seen were either the orange or the blue or the gold version of the orange& pink one pictured below. This was what I call their Mid-Century Modern box design and I think it was the most popular and well known of the DeLiso boxes. It was first introduced in the 1950’s and stayed in use in one color version or another for a couple of decades. It became recognizable to the ladies who bought DeLiso Debs as their box.
Nowadays this packaging and branding is considered very important. Keep that thought in mind as you read on and ponder what they did next!
The actual orange & pink box in this picture above was given to me with a different pair of shoes in it! A non-DeLiso pair of shoes! That is weird, but that is what happened. I know the brown Alligator shoes pictured would have come in a similar box so I am admittedly cheating a bit by sticking this pair of shoes in the box for the sake of a more interesting picture! It you look carefully the label on the end of the box says it originally housed a pair of black shoes! I know these came in the same era and the same style and color of box so, this is legitimate for the purpose of illustration. I have seen the same box design in a blue & aqua version and a gold & yellow version. The DeLiso logo was the same on all of these box colors – only the colors of the boxes changed.
I call this box design the Mid-Century Modern DeLiso Debs Shoe Box . (Please note, that is my name for it, not an official company name.) The company used this box for several decades. I find it cute and recognizable as the DeLiso Debs shoe box. The company grew and became more and more popular and successful.
Then, suddenly, in the late 1970’s, somebody in advertising suggested DeLiso change both their boxes and their name and the way they spelled it! They updated their image and boxes to the unbelievably horrible version in the yellow, gold and brown cardboard box shown above! They took the Debs out of the name! They respelled the name in ugly lettering. The eliminated all class and all vintage charm from the name, the label and the box!
Note the change in presentation of the name and how it is spelled. This was constantly changing and it never seemed to settle down. The only advantage to that was that a customer never had to worry if she was or was not spelling it correctly. It became terribly confusing. And it still is. It is as if all the letters that spell DeLiso have been agitating in a washing machine cycle for several decades. Where ever the letters land when the agitator stops is the way we’ll spell it today! This drives me nuts when I am trying to write about the company! It’s like the Dutch language, constantly evolving!
I hate the 1970’s box! But, as far as I know there was not another box or container design after that. And the visual horrors do not end there! Wait until you see what they did to the inside of the shoes they made after that!