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Lady Violette

The Romantic Lifestyle

Archive for August, 2011

Storing and Caring For Vintage Shoes

Friday, August 19th, 2011

Six Pairs of Treasures Vintage Alligator Shoes in the Lady Violette Shoe Collection

You might wonder how I store the vast number of shoes in my collection?

This is constantly evolving. I have some shoes, flats, mules, ballets and slipper types, stored in traditional hanging shoe bags on the backs of my closet doors. I have the shoes I wear often stacked in shoe boxes or standing, ready to wear, in neat rows on the floors of my closet. Special shoes that I do not use often are stored in either their original shoe boxes neatly stacked according to maker and designer or color or style, or in the cases of shoes that do not have their original boxes, stored in new shoe boxes all the same size and color carefully labeled on both the top and one end of the box.I have a closet under a stairway in my house that is pretty big so all these shoe boxes are stored stacked in it. It is still roomy enough to get in there to get them out! I do not want to acquire so many that I cannot get at them! For this reason I am editing constantly. I decide to weed out some shoes for one reason or another. It is hard. They are all beautiful. Right now I have about 10 pairs for sale in my Etsy vintage store. They are great, just don’t go with my collection. When you collect you have to be very serious and have discipline. You cannot keep everything!

Because I am currently attempting to photo document all the shoes in my collection I am also going through all of them and repacking them carefully to be sure I have them properly stored. Some old and delicate shoes require me to keep them in archival cloth wrapping rather than tissue paper. I use old scarves for this purpose or pieces of clean cotton cloth cut into squares or rectangles with pinking sheers. I pre-wash the cotton fabric before cutting it into wrapping size pieces to remove any chemicals that could adversely effect the shoes.

Archival storage boxes should be used for very old and delicate shoes. I am in the process of researching the best source of such boxes now.

Shoes in boxes take up more room than they do without boxes. However it is important not to let the shoes knock against each other or get scratched or squashed. Shoes are actually quite delicate and require special handling. When moving large numbers of shoes I have packed them, all in their individual boxes, into large moving boxes. That seems to be the best way to do it so that every surface is protected.

Someone asked me recently if I had those gigantic fancy closets that you see in celebrity homes in magazines with rows and rows of shoes lined up on custom built shelves. The answer is no! I do not! I cannot afford to build such closets in terms of space or financial cost. I also should caution people about storing shoes that way because they are exposed to both light and dust. It is best to keep them covered and stored in darkness in their boxes so that light does not deteriorate the colors or fabric or leather surfaces.

Take good care of your vintage shoes! Think of keeping each special pair of shoes wrapped up in its little blanket carefully tucked into its own little box sleeping peacefully until you are ready to use it again.

Another important point is keeping your vintage shoes clean and dry. After wearing a pair clean it off if necessary, then let it air out completely for a day before putting it away. This way it should last many more decades. Of course, when I acquire a new pair of old shoes I clean them up if necessary and take them to my shoe repair shop if they need any repairs or renovations. Most of them do need cleaning and work when I receive them.

I wear a lot of my shoes. Carefully! I do not wear them out if it is raining, or to walk in tall wet grass for instance! I am cautious about what I expose them to and often carry an extra pair of less special shoes with me if I need to switch into them. I do not wear the oldest ones if they are in danger of falling apart. But, for the most part, I have found that aware wearing of the shoes seems to be good for them. After all they were made to be worn and enjoyed. And I certainly enjoy them!

With proper restoration and care vintage shoes you acquire and collect should last a long time.

The shoes in the photo are a small sampling of my vintage alligator shoe collection. All of them will be discussed and shown in detail in future posts.

Photo by Fredrich Lehrman, styled by Violette de Courcy.

Shoes from the Lady Violette de Courcy Shoe Collection

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The Art or Lack of it on Shoeboxes! Some of DeLiso Debs Curious Vintage Boxes…

Wednesday, August 17th, 2011

I’ve shown several pairs of vintage DeLiso Debs by Palter DeLiso here on my blog and I also happen to have two vintage DeLiso boxes. It is always desirable to keep the original shoe boxes if possible but seldom happened in the vintage shoes in my experience. The boxes were originally only meant to house the shoes, protect them in transport and keep them clean until they reached their owner. Many people threw them away and stored their shoes in closets or hanging shoe bags. I am lucky (I guess,  but don’t decide until you see the way they look!) to have two of the early versions of the DeLiso Debs (or however you spell it!) boxes.

I recall seeing a dull gray blue cardboard one with white writing on it that came from the 40’s. I do not have one of those at this time. But the majority of the DeLiso boxes I have seen were either the orange or the blue or the gold version of the orange& pink one pictured below. This was what I call their Mid-Century Modern box design and I think it was the most popular and well known of the DeLiso boxes. It was first introduced in the 1950’s and stayed in use in one color version or another for a couple of decades. It became recognizable to the ladies who bought DeLiso Debs as their box.

Nowadays this packaging and branding is considered very important. Keep that thought in mind as you read on and ponder what they did next!

A Vintage 1950's Mid-Century Modern DeLiso Debs Shoe Box

The actual orange & pink box in this picture above was given to me with a different pair of shoes in it! A non-DeLiso pair of shoes! That is weird, but that is what happened. I know the brown Alligator shoes pictured would have come in a similar box so I am admittedly cheating a bit by sticking this pair of shoes in the box for the sake of a more interesting picture! It you look carefully the label on the end of the box says it originally housed a pair of black shoes! I know these came in the same era and the same style and color of box so, this is legitimate for the purpose of illustration. I have seen the same box design in a blue & aqua version and a gold & yellow version. The DeLiso logo was the same on all of these box colors – only the colors of the boxes changed.

I call this box design the Mid-Century Modern DeLiso Debs Shoe Box . (Please note, that is my name for it, not an official company name.) The company used this box for several decades. I find it cute and recognizable as the DeLiso Debs shoe box. The company grew and became more and more popular and successful.

The Horror of the "New DeLiso Box " - Circa late 1970's

Then, suddenly, in the late 1970’s, somebody in advertising suggested DeLiso change both their boxes and their name and the way they spelled it! They updated their image and boxes to the unbelievably horrible version in the yellow, gold and brown cardboard box shown above! They took the Debs out of the name! They respelled the name in ugly lettering. The eliminated all class and all vintage charm from the name, the label and the box!

Note the change in presentation of the name and how it is spelled. This was constantly changing and it never seemed to settle down. The only advantage to that was that a customer never had to worry if she was or was not spelling it correctly. It became terribly confusing. And it still is. It is as if all the letters that spell DeLiso have been agitating in a washing machine cycle for several decades. Where ever the letters land when the agitator stops is the way we’ll spell it today! This drives me nuts when I am trying to write about the company! It’s like the Dutch language, constantly evolving!

I wish the old box had crushed the new one and risen to prominence again!

I hate the 1970’s box! But, as far as I know there was not another box or container design after that. And the visual horrors do not end there! Wait until you see what they did to the inside of the shoes they made after that!

 

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Amalfi by Rangoni’s Famous Delicate T~Strap Design With Feminine Flower Trim Popular in the 1950’s & Early 1960’s

Tuesday, August 16th, 2011

 

An exquisitely graceful Amalfi style decorated with a charming flower.

Amalfi made some of the prettiest most feminine shoes of the early 1950’s ~ 1960’s. This delicate T-strap trimmed with a flower is made of  rich coppery brown suede accented with metallic leather is a lovely example ~ and yet another example of a very desirable and attractive brown shoe! They were made in Italy of course.

Amalfi's had lovely lines and always featured feminine touches.

 

I like brown shoes! Maybe because I also like chocolate! I associate brown with delicious chocolate and luxury leather goods! Amalfi’s shoes were always luxurious.

 

Alluring Amalfi's created desire in women's hearts ~ after all, what woman doesn't long for shoes, chocolate and flowers?

 

My mother found reason’s to buy them, like this pair, because it matched her auburn hair and an emerald green pair because it looked so good with her Titian hair. Of course owning and wearing beautiful shoes and handbags made her happy. She was very fastidious about her shoes and bags, selecting the exact right ones to wear each day with every suit or dress.

The soft velvety copper brown suede and smooth metallic leather are such a complimentary combination!

 

In the mid sixties my mother took a trip to Italy with her sisters and her father for the express purpose of buying shoes and purses. At least that is why the women went along. My grandfather went to study the architecture and took them with him for the experience. They dutifully toured buildings and museums for a couple of hours a day and shopped for the rest. He dutifully paid for all their purchase! Lucky girls! He joked on their return about how little energy they had for studying and how much they had for exploring the shops! He also loved fine leather good and shoes and came back with several pairs of custom made boots.  He was a great appreciator of the Italian design and craftsmanship.

Ever after that sojourn my mother referred to her auburn hair as Titian because it sounded so much more romantic and European! After they returned to the United States they could continue to enjoy aspects of Italy each day by wearing the shoes and handbags they had brought home. It cheered them up and kept them going.  My mother always said, “You should wear the best shoes you can get! It will make people treat you with respect.” My grandfather always said, “You should buy the best shoes you can because they will last a long time!” Both have proven correct in my experience!

Ugo Rangoni began his shoe company in the early 1930’s in Florance in two rooms of his house. Within a few years he had become so well known for his workmanship that he was making shoes for Christian Dior and other couture designers. In the 1950’s he invented the T~strap design like the ones shown above and it was so popular he sold over two million pairs. There were variations on the design and its adornment and colors but the basic shoe was thus.

Note: Rangoni was credited with inventing the T~strap but I think he just made his version very popular. Because I know, for a fact, that variations on the T~strap design existed in the 1920’s and 30’s and were made by other designers. It has long been a popular style for dance shoes because the straps keep the shoes on while dancing as well as flattering the foot and ankle.

I have other vintage Amalfi shoes in my collection as well as other T~strap designs from Amalfi and other designers. I also have a beautiful pair of elegant vintage Amalfi boots in the most delicious caramel color I will be sharing soon. It is rare to find vintage Amalfi’s in these charming old designs. They were notoriously comfortable and were often used until they wore out completely. As far as I can find out the alluring and delicate vintage styles of yesteryear are no longer being manufactured, thus, if you happen to come across a vintage pair and love them you should get it. They are very rare! There aren’t many left because they were loved to pieces!

The Amalfi by Rangoni company is still in production, now in a big factory in Florence. They are now known for casual and comfortable shoes still made to the highest standards of Italian workmanship, rather than the whimsical couture creations of yesteryear. They have their own shops in major cities and are sold in shoe stores all over the world as well as online. They are beautiful practical shoes of high quality and still very desirable.

Photographs by Fredric Lehrman.

Styled by Violette de Courcy.

Shoes from The Lady Violette Shoe Collection.

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Stephane Kelian’s Contemporary Wine Suede Parisian Peep Toe Pumps Inspired by 40’s Vintage Film Heroines

Monday, August 15th, 2011

Stephane Kelian's Parisian Peep Toe Beauty!

Here is a beautiful wine suede peep toe pump by contemporary Parisian designer Stephane Kelian. Every bit as elegant as any Hollywood movie star’s shoes from the 1940’s.

Exquisite & Unusual Design & Coloring Undoubtedly Inspired by Vintage Sensibilitie!

The lining and the trim on the toes is a bronze metallic leather making an unexpected and sophisticated  combination of colors. Perfect pumps to wear with vintage or modern clothing.

Shoe Shapes Inspire Abstract Sculptural Interpretations ...

These shoes have lovely lines that accentuate the curve of the foot in the most subtle ways and beg to be photographed as art pieces and displayed as sculpture when not being worn.

Classic Profiles!

Something this lovely begs to be looked at all the time! When not being worn, I display my favorite shoes as art pieces throughout my house so I can enjoy them more often.

Conversation Pieces!

Worn or displayed as fine art people love shoes. Just seeing them, appreciating them and talking about them opens up the most interesting interactions. Beautiful shoes inspire people!

Photographs by Fredric Lehrman. Styled by Violette de Courcy. Shoes from The Lady Violette Shoe Collection.

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Kushins by Barefoot Originals From The Lady Violette Shoe Collection

Sunday, August 14th, 2011

The Divine Kushins From Barefoot Originals!

This beautiful pair of late 50’s stiletto pumps is from the same period as the Arias from DeLiso Debs I posted yesterday. I wanted this one to follow the Arias so you could see the similarity in the two styles and compare the two tone treatment in the complimentary shades of brown used again here in a similar combination of leather and patent.I haven’t any records showing the exact dates either pair were produced or originally purchased, but I am confident, based on research, the names, structure, style, personal experience and exposure to other shoes from the same companies that is the late 50’s.

I love the names of some of the vintage shoe lines. This is a great example. Kushins by Barefoot Originals! The names sounds so comfortable and good for your feet!

Sleek & Elegant They Epitomized Feminine Style in The Late 50's

Do you think they were? When you see the style? Or was the name the ultimate in advertising art? They were certainly extraordinarily sexy and sleek!

Kushin’s implies extraordinary softness along the balls of the feet when wearing these! That is a stretch of the imagination!

I do wear them, but only for a couple of hours at a time. If you are going to wear super high heels, I recommend switching back and forth from high to low heels often to take pressure and stress off the balls of your feet. I am a dancer so I know! The heels on this pair are 4 and 1/4 inches high! This style of shoe is comfortable and safe to wear for short periods if you wear the right size ( usually a half size to a full size longer than you normally wear) in lower healed shoes. And if you pamper your feet in between by wearing different types of shoes. It is not healthy to put pressure on the balls of your feet day in and day out.

I am aware that I both advocate wearing high heels and warn against the pitfalls of doing so too much at the same time. I believe they are like fine chocolates – to be enjoyed in moderation! I personally find that wearing shoes of different styles and different heel heights exercises and strengthens my feet. That is another good reason to acquire many shoes of different and interesting types. Just be sure to change shoes often.

I love saying the name “Kushins by Barefoot Originals!” It is ridiculously retro and upper crust which adds to the fun of wearing the shoes! I have seen ads for Barefoot Originals in old magazines advocating the Town & Country lifestyle. The model is always wearing a pencil skirt, a cashmere sweater and a fur trimmed coat with gloves while carrying a gorgeous ladylike frame handbag. The exact same look works equally well today! And it conjures up images of the same fantasy lifestyle, even if you have put the entire look together out of brilliant vintage finds for a $100 – $150 which is quite possible to achieve. (Yes, I am writing this in 2011!)

They called this color of leather caramel, and the color of the patent leather butterscotch. Yummy! Another reason why I find vintage brown shoes anything but plain and absolutely delicious! Note how shiny the patent leather has remained! No wonder it was coveted back in the day! It is real leather and it has lasted in perfect like new condition with much use from both the original owner and me.

I have written previously that my vintage shoes are used shoes and are old and that I began collecting shoes in order to wear them. Thus I am showing them with all their signs of use and age and imperfections purposely in my photographs. In many cases I have had to do considerable restoration to extend the lives of the shoes or bring them back to life. I will point that out in some cases so you will know what has been done. These needed new heel tips and a good cleaning. Good shoemakers are delighted to get a chance to work on these elegant old shoes in my experience. They are wowed by the design and the craftsmanship.

It is well worth the investment to restore and maintain such shoes either to wear yourself or to have as works of art and examples of quality style and workmanship in a previous time.

Photos are by Fredric Lehrman & are styled by Violette de Courcy. The Kushins by Barefoot Originals are from The Lady Violette Shoe Collection.

 

You Can See The Famous Name Kushins in Luxurious Gold Script on the Insole.

 

 

The Beautifully Engineered Heel ~ Very Thin & Highly Stable

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