In 1920’s Paris The Fourrures Weil, founded in 1912, by three furrier brothers, Jacques, Marcel and Alfred Weil were well known for their elegant designs in fur. Weil Furriers was a family business with an elite clientele. A customer of theirs asked them if there was a specific type of perfume one could wear with real furs that would enhance the fur wearing experience and, importantly, be safe to wear with furs. Back then furs tended to acquire their own smell, a musty animalistic odor and this client wanted to mask that with an appealing scent that would not damage the furs.
It just so happened that several members of the Weil family were also interested in Perfumes and creating them so they set about developing specialized scents for this sector of the luxury marketplace. That market was, specifically, Perfumes to Wear with ones Expensive Fur Coats to Enhance the Fur Wearing Experience. Parfums Weil was launched in 1927. The original idea was to pleasantly scent fur coats but this quickly evolved into developing other regular types of perfumes as well. All perfumes that were sold between 1927 and 1954 came in glass bottles made by Baccarat.
In 1928 Weil Furriers developed and introduced a line of 3 Perfumes in Paris for the fur scenting purpose. The perfumes were named after the luxurious furs they were meant to enhance: They were Chinchilla Royal to wear with soft grey chinchilla, Zibeline to wear with rich brown Sable, and Hermine to wear with elegant white Ermine. This was a new concept in the luxury perfume industry and became an overnight success with the wealthy fur wearing clients of Weil Furriers Paris. It also launched the Weil Perfumes as a company separate from Weil Furriers that gradually produced its own line of regular perfumes.
The original vintage perfumes intended to be worn with furs came in beautiful sculptural glass bottles with ground glass stoppers manufactured by Baccarat such as the one pictured below.
A Later Bottle of Hermine- The To Wear with Ermine Perfume
This is a print advertisement showing early boxes and bottles for Zibeline and Chinchilla Royal: note the line drawings depicting the fur animals: Zimbeline for Sable and Chinchilla for Chinchilla Royal. The glass bottles came with elegant ground glass stoppers and one could also purchase atomizers to spray on the perfume in a light mist which the furriers recommended doing in their directions on how to use these fragrances to scent your furs.
A later version of a Zibeline bottle
Following are images of fur fashions from the 1920s and one from Weil Furriers in the 1940s to illustrate the furs worn in that era. I always find such gorgeous photos an inspiration in putting together outfits to wear now whether going all out vintage or just a little! Enjoy!
Fur Fashion of the 1920s Fur Coats by Weil furriers 1940sA Fashionable Flapper in Fur Coat – 1920sWomen Wearing Clutch Fur coats with Fur Collars – 1920sWoman Applying Perfume with an Atomizer Before Donning Her Furs – 1920sFlapper with Fur collar and Cloche Hat – 1920sFur Collar 1920sHigh Fashion Fur Ensemble – 1920sAn amazing design for an Ermine Evening Coat from the 1920s
Rare and beautiful historic clothing and accessories and vintage fragrances are for sale in my online shops. If you see something on this blog that you are interested in buying, but do not find it for sale in my shops message me on Etsy or Ebay and I will get back to you about availability. I check messages daily and can always prepare a special listing for you if you do not find it already listed in the shops. Some perfumes and vintage furs and fur trimmed items are currently listed for sale in my shops and others will be listed as they are ready to sell. Items are always in process of being readied for listing so all inventory is not already listed and photographed. Feel free to message me on Ebay or Etsy if you are seeking something in particular as I may have it or be able to find it for you. There are contact seller buttons on all listings in the stores which allow you to write me messages.
As I explained in my previous post Christian Dior commissioned a perfume named Dioressence to accompany his 1969/70 Fall Winter Collection which featured furs. He wanted this new fragrance to live up to the tagline “Le Perfume Barbare” – the barbaric perfume – and serve as an accessory to the fur fashions he had created for this season. The perfume was inspired by the barbaric fashions he had designed. And, once again, you were supposed to see it as an accessory to the furs and wear it with the furs. all furs used in this collection were real fur.
This description, of course, peaked my curiosity. I had to see what kinds of furs would actually inspire a new perfume and a name which made me envision a caveman throwing his woman over his shoulder and carrying her into a cave to ravish her …
As we know fashion houses always have to strive to create something new and attention getting, something that will position them at the front of the pack and insure that they get attention from the press and attract clients who will buy and wear the clothes they have created. In my mind Dior has always epitomized femininity and elegant good taste so, this name seemed like a departure from the usual and got my attention if nothing else!
Here is a collection of images showing the furs photographed on the street outside of the Dior store in Paris and inside the Dior Salon in London when the models were rehearsing the choreography for the actual runway show. Please note all the furs used in this collection were real fur.
The caption accompanying the photos read: “Christian Dior today showed in London a collection of furs for the Winter 69-70 from Paris. The girls who showed the furs, came from Paris. They are pop ballet dancers, and accompanying them was Dior’s first ever male model, 24 year old Aigle Hasper who has just joined Dior. The dancing girl in the lead position is Lubia Rosche a professional ballet dancer. The other models are also trained ballet dancers who are members of her troupe. “
The photographer is Mirrorpix
Rare and beautiful historic clothing and accessories and vintage fragrances are for sale in my online shops. If you see something on this blog that you are interested in buying, but do not find it for sale in my shops message me on Etsy or Ebay and I will get back to you about availability. I check messages daily and can always prepare a special listing for you if you do not find it already listed in the shops. Some perfumes and vintage furs and fur trimmed items are currently listed for sale in my shops and others will be listed as they are ready to sell. Items are always in process of being readied for listing so all inventory is not already listed and photographed. Feel free to message me on Ebay or Etsy if you are seeking something in particular as I may have it or be able to find it for you. There are contact seller buttons on all listings in the stores which allow you to write me messages.
In 1969 French couture designer Christian Dior commissioned perfumer Guy Robert to create a perfume to be worn with his furs. He had done a series of luxe fur coats, evening furs and day designs with fur trims for his Fall/Winter 1969 Collection and wanted a special scent to accent them. He considered this perfume to be a fragrant accessory to wear with his furs.
Dior requested a scent in his own words that would be “intensely animalic, sensual and brutal!” He wanted it to run counter to the luminous blends that had made Dior perfumes famous up to that point. They came up with Dioressence, a deliciously rich chypre, very powerful and tenacious, and quite different than anything the house of Dior had previously issued. It caused a sensation when it came out and has become famous as one of the greatest perfumes of all time. Women liked its balance of earthy depth and elegance. It combined the fleshy ripeness of animalic notes with the autumnal warmth of patchouli and moss. Wrapped in jasmine and rose it had a glamorous and exotic aura, but remained surprisingly pleasing and easy to wear. It became very popular.
The original formula of Dioressence issued in 1969 was available from Dior and in high end stores like Saks Fifth Avenue for 10 years.
Here is one of the early ads for Dioressence.
I also noticed that this vintage Dior ad seems to be inspired by the painting “Repose” by John White Alexander (1895). Just a bit of art trivia for you.
In 1979 the Dior company decided to update the original formula of Dioressence for a relaunch. This new fragrance was created by Max Gavarry, and it followed the same general outlines as the original Dioressence but it was made plusher and sweeter. The rich glitter of warm spices was enriched, and the dense pungency of ambergris in the ’69 version was substantially reduced. Most vintage Dioressence on the market today is from this 1979 relaunch.
Vintage Chinchilla Stole – a timeless vintage fur that will always be the epitome of elegance.
In the original 1969 launch Dioressence By Dior was marketed as the height of luxury, the ultimate in sensuality and sophistication meant to enhance the experience of wearing a beautiful fur and being a beautiful woman. But times were changing ….. and there was no reason you could not wear Dioressence when not wearing a fur. And, hopefully, they would sell a lot more of this exotic scent if it could be worn anytime with anything.
Vintage Mink Stole – and Vintage Christian Dior Jewelry – exquisite vintage elegance is always in style!
Thus the Dior company issued this description of their 1979 version:
“Bring an aura of mystery and magic to your days and nights with Dioressence by Christian Dior. This women’s fragrance is undeniably feminine and enchanting, making it the perfect choice for evening use. It blends notes of bergamot and orange with fruity notes, patchouli and green notes for a distinctive result. Choose this breathtaking fragrance when you want to captivate a crowd without lifting a finger. Its memorable essence turns heads wherever you go.”
It is interesting to note that the original purpose of the 1969 version as a fragrance accessory to wear with furs was no longer used in the 1979 and later promotions and advertising campaigns! This is partly because wearing fur had now become a questionable practice due to the efforts of animal rights activists, thus Dior had to de-emphasize the original purpose of the scent and come up with a new ones in order to keep selling the perfume. It was fine to emphasize wearing this perfume any time you wanted to wear it because there was no reason it could only be worn with furs! They go on to say, “This spicy beauty with a green rose top note is delightful. It teases with its spicy warmth, before enveloping its wearer in a cool veil of moss and vetiver. ”
The 1979 version came in the above spray flacon and remained and remains to this day a lovely choice to wear with furs or anything else! In the 1980s I was very aware of the existence of this perfume but not the fact that it had originally been created to wear with furs!
I have been wearing this 1979 version for a week as my daily perfume while I have worked on this post. I absolutely love it! It makes me feel as if I am in my own magic world – a place removed from the stresses and pressures of modern life – mysterious and special. It smells lovely – not at all heavy, but very long lasting. On me it even lasts through showers and becomes deeper and more special over a couple of days. It makes me feel relaxed and peaceful similar to how I feel visiting a garden in a summer evening after the heat of the day has passed.
Fast forward to the current times – I am writing this post in August of 2024.
In the late 1980s the Dior company began experiencing financial difficulties. Incidentally, I worked for the company during that time and through the 1990s. I attended Dior’s perfume training school but the fact that Dioressence was originally designed in 1969 to wear with furs was never mentioned! The company seems to have forgotten this most interesting history. Again, in the late 80s many of the perfumes from Dior were reformulated using cheaper ingredients for economy or replacing banned ingredients because they were required to do so by law. Alas, due to decisions by the accountants at Dior, Dioressence was again reformulated. Thus we got the 3rd version that is available today on the commercial retail perfume market.
Dioressence has been through multiple reformulations:
The first and the original Barbaric version was created in 1969 by Guy Robert
The second spicier version was created in 1979 by Max Gavarry
The third currently available version which is on the market today 2024 and is not attributed to anyone in particular but seems to have gradually morphed into being little by little as Dior executives cut costs. This is the one that bears little relationship to either Robert’s or Gavarry’s creations.
The fourth version is coming soon as Francoise Demachy, Dior’s current in house perfumer is currently working on a new version of Dioressence.
This brings me to consider the name of this perfume – Dioressence. Doesn’t this seem to say this perfume is the essence of Christian Dior and to dig deeper – the essence of society at the time it was created? Perhaps all these different versions are defining the essence of Dior and the society at the times they came out. It is the job of fashion houses to both make trends and follow them. For example the 1969 version was a barbaric perfume for the 1970s – the age of sex drugs and Rock ‘n Roll. Liberalism before it got bogged down and restrictive. If you were going to be cool and hip and a woman that is the vibe you wanted for better or for worse. It was the time of danger – the time when women were forced to embrace danger. Woodstock happened in 1968 and the world was alive with the sound of music. I feel that 1969 was a year in which they could see ahead and predict what would be happening in the 70s.
The 1979 version calmed down on the barbaric level but became spicier – thus a spicy oriental – a big perfume for the opulent 1980s – with its extreme more is more fashions with their their over-the-top silhouettes, big shoulders, teased hair, saturated colors, puffed sleeves, flashy skirts, spandex, velour, shiny satin, voluminous parachute pants and power suits. The 80s was a bold excess decade, peak Japan, leveraged buyouts, the movie Wall Street, Gordon Gecco, “Greed is Good”, corporate buyouts, cocaine, yuppies, the focus was less on free love, but more decadent in a way. A woman needed to smell good if she was going to stand out amidst all that!
The supermodel phenomenon started in the late 80s and exploded in the 90s co-inciding with a growing media landscape and increasing pop culture interest in fashion.
Mid 80s – the 90s was the Aids Scare, in the late 80s and early 90s Dior was experiencing financial constraints, in the 90s the US was in an economic slump, the UK was in a recession as well. Subdued style suddenly made sense so the revival of minimalism came forward as luxury style. The opulence of the 1980s was taken over in the 90s by a revival of luxury. John Galliano was hired as Creative Director by Dior to revive luxury and bring people back to Dior – get them interested in Luxury again. That was in 1995. And this he achieved from 1996 – 2011.
In popular culture fashion in the 90s engaged in a wide variety of styles, that cycled in and out very quickly. There was always something new, always something a bit controversial, something for everyone. There was reinvention and restlessness in the fashion of the 90s – minimalism, revival of luxury, retro-revivals, grunge, deconstruction and the avant-garde, environmentalism and the global wardrobe. There was hip-hop, rave culture and sports-inspired style. This is the period from which the third generation of Dioressence, the one still available is stores, evolved.
Fashion is and always has always been a signifier of social status and self-expression and a sign of the times – so it will be interesting to see what the upcoming fourth version of Dioressence becomes.
Back to the history of Dioressence:
Guy Robert, was the legendary nose responsible for creating the original barbaric Dioressence in 1969. In The Emperor of Scent, Chandler Burr recounts Luca Turin telling the story of how Dior executives asked Robert to create a fragrance that was “animalic”, would live up to the slogan le parfum barbare, and would be called Dioressence (p. 146, paperback edition). The rest was up to Robert. He didn’t have a firm direction for the fragrance until kismet intervened and Robert washed his ambergris-coated hands with soap impregnated with the scent of a Miss Dior knock-off. Voila! Animal and elegance with a clear tie to Dior.
Burr goes on to record Turin’s response to the current, reformulated version of Dioressence – the third and currently sold version, “t’s now a lie, a total lie to the original, to what it was.” Later, Turin wrote in his now defunct blog, “The last time the word barbare was used in earnest in perfumery was in the 1969 slogan of Dioressence, and that was the genuine article with a weird, scary, overripe, almost garbage-like note.” I read all of this before I ever smelled Dioressence, but I was still eager to smell it, no matter what the version. A “weird, scary” note? Who could resist that? What, on earth, did that description mean?
Burr continues, saying, ” I arranged for a sample of vintage 1969 version of Dioressence through a swap, and eagerly sprayed it on my arm. It kicked off with an intriguing mix of soap and rot. The rot was not musky like body odor, but decomposed, like the vague dead squirrel smell I catch here and there in Guerlain Jicky and Shalimar. The rot smell faded to the background, and a gorgeous floral bouquet, languorous and spicy, nudged in, supremely blended and supremely French in feel. For all its richness, Dioressence wasn’t heavy, and even though the sample was only of the Eau de Toilette, it lasted for hours. I had to have a bottle of it.”
So, he acquired a bottle of the version number three , the one currently available today, and he said, “Yes, my new bottle of the reformulated Dioressence was a bitter disappointment. I felt robbed. The sample I’d first tried and fell in love with must have been vintage. Instead of a compelling, odd, but beautiful scent, I had a bottle of pleasant, rosy, spicy, soapy fragrance that lasted on the skin two hours, tops. I should have been warned when I saw that Dior had moved away from its original barbare description of Dioressence toward the innocuous “mysterious Orient” theme.”
Dior’s website currently, in August 2024, describes Dioressence as a “spicy oriental” and lists its top notes as aldehydes, greens and fruit; its heart as jasmine, geranium, cinnamon, carnation, orris, ylang ylang and tuberose; and its base as patchouli, oak moss, vetiver, vanilla and musk.
All I can say is: Dior, shame on you. I see that recently Dior decided to make the classic fragrances (Miss Dior, Diorella, Diorissimo, and Dioressence) more exclusive in the United States by selling them only at Saks Fifth Avenue. Dior also recently released three expensive, limited edition fragrances (La Collection Particuliere). None of these moves toward repositioning Dior perfume as truly top shelf will succeed as long as the juice is a cheap imitation of its original glory. I’d rather pay twice as much for a vintage bottle of Dioressence (which will last me twice as long having twice the persistence, by the way) than buy a new bottle any day. Poor Guy Robert.
Dioressence : Today
Unfortunately, as Dior suffered financial hardships in the late 1980s, the quality of the formula began to decline, and the version you can find in stores today is a legacy of that period. Little by little the barbaric perfume has morphed into a sheer green infusion of moss and soapy rose. It’s pleasant, but bland. Even the current Christian Dior in-house perfumer Francois Demachy admitted in an interview that he also dislikes the current Dioressence, ( that is the on e being sold now in 2024) which bears little relationship to either Robert’s 1969 or Gavarry’s 1979 creations. This interview is from a Russian issue of GQ and frankly addresses and explains the problems perfumers and consumers are having with current releases of the famous old perfumes. It is very worth reading.
Some people blame the changing fashions, others point to the severity of current fragrance regulations. Guy Robert only shrugged his shoulders and said, “The fashion now is to be afraid, we used these so-called dangerous ingredients for hundreds of years, and nothing happened.”
Apparently, Francois Demachy is currently working on a new version of Dioressence, and I hope that one day we might find this fragrance made, again, with quality ingredients and with at least a hint of a tantalizing barbaric streak! When is is launched it will be version four.
Coming next: Images of the Brutal Furs from Dior’s 1969 Fall/Winter Collection!
Meanwhile: I advise you to hunt down, collect, wear and enjoy your favorite vintage perfumes.
Rare and beautiful historic clothing and accessories and vintage fragrances are for sale in my online shops. I also offer a collection of vintage Christian Dior jewelry and vintage furs. If you see something on this blog that you are interested in buying, but do not find it for sale in my shops message me on Etsy or Ebay and I will get back to you about availability. I check messages daily and can always prepare a special listing for you if you do not find it already listed in the shops. Some perfumes and vintage furs and fur trimmed items are currently listed for sale in my shops and others will be listed as they are ready to sell. Items are always in process of being readied for listing so all inventory is not already listed and photographed. Feel free to message me on Ebay or Etsy if you are seeking something in particular as I may have it or be able to find it for you. There are contact seller buttons on all listings in the stores which allow you to write me messages.
Today I came across this wonderful article discussing the wearing of Vintage Fur : I recommend reading it as it clears up a lot of issues surrounding real fur, recycled vintage furs, fake fur, newly produced furs and the fur industry in general.
I also recommend digging further into the many surrounding issues discussed and reading the other links in the article.
Everyone will come to their own conclusions! I, for one, will continue to wear and promote the wearing and enjoyment of vintage furs!
Many thanks to Barbara Koich “The FUR Lady” for sending me this article!
Barb also carries vintage and recycled furs in her Etsy shop.
Rare and beautiful historic clothing and accessories including furs and fur trimmed items, are for sale in my online shops. If you see something on this blog that you are interested in buying, but do not find it for sale in my shops message me on Etsy or Ebay and I will get back to you about availability. I check messages daily and can always prepare a special listing for you if you do not find it already listed in the shops.
Today I was working on restoring this beautiful 1940s era coat trimmed in real vintage fur. Of course I wanted to preserve it. It is truly a thing of beauty! It needed a lot of work as the thread holding it together was deteriorating. I had to remove the fur pieces so I could have the cloth portion dry cleaned, then hand sew all the seams and reinforce the hand sewn bound buttonholes. In the process I discovered many wonderful details involved in its construction. There was much to appreciate!
The mauve boucle wool coat is originally from the 1940s and features a removable Kolinsky fur scarf collar and wide cuffs that were dyed to look like mink. This coat was made in England. They used to use Kolinsky instead of mink because it was less expensive. It the pelts were not the desired color or perfectly matched they would bleach and dye them to be the desired base color of dark brown or caramel then paint a darker stripe down the center to emulate mink. FYI Kolinsky are a type of weasel and they are not endangered. More about Kolinsky fur at the end of this post.
This fur was professionally identified as Kolinsky by Rene Vogel who is a professional Swiss Furrier who formerly ran the fur salons of Nordstrom flagship store and I. Magnin and Co. in Seattle, WA.
I especially love the crossover fur scarf at the neck and the wool loop with two rhinestone set fittings holding it in place. It is a beautiful and unusual design detail – as are the large still plush and shiny wide and luxurious fur cuffs! When you insert your arms into the sleeves you find a real treat in the form of the surprise details hidden underneath inside the sleeves.
When you turn back the fur cuff you find an inner wrist cuff that buttons snugly around the wrist to keep out the cold air! How thoughtful!
The fabric is a mauve colored wool boucle with a loopy highly textured surface, underneath is is layer of wool interfacing to provide an extra layer of warmth between the main fabric and the lining which is a taffeta-like slippery fabric chosen to slide over the clothes you wear under your coat.
The lining is a pretty sort of lavender grey color printed with spools of thread and sewing needles – charming harbingers of the tailors art – when you look underneath you see all the fine sewing techniques. Look at the elegant stitching. Every seam is finished with care. There are no raw edges of fabric, no strangling untied off or un-trimmed threads, no irregular seams.
When this coat was made and sold in the 1940s women went shopping and inspected the seams and linings and insides of clothes before finally buying them to be sure they were well constructed and beautifully made. They were going to be sure that a garment not only looked fashionable and attractive, but would also hold up over time. They looked for high quality fabrics and furs, excellent tailoring technique, and perfect stitching. Mothers would explain all these characteristics to their daughters to teach them to shop carefully. In the next photo you can see the hand sewn bound buttonholes and custom made self-fabric covered buttons.
You would look for pockets, then put your hand inside to check how deep it was, and whether is was lined. Was the lining, hopefully, soft, warm flannel ( it would hold up better than a satin lined pocket as well as be warmer should you need to put your hands into your pockets on a cold evening walk to keep them warm. ) You also needed to determine whether the pockets were deep enough to hold a pair of gloves. It was important because you would not want to lose an expensive pair of gloves should they fall out of a pocket that was not large enough to hold them deep inside.
This one would do on both accounts! A testament to the fact is that I actually found a pair of brown kidskin gloves still deep inside the pockets of the coat when I acquired it! What an unexpected thrill!
It was important to look carefully at the coat from all angles to be sure it hung correctly on your body, fit well across the shoulders and allowed you to move feely when wearing it. Of course is should look elegant and fit well too! In the olden days they had three-way full length mirrors situated at regular intervals throughout stores. Why? So customers could see how the clothes looked on them. And because it was a great selling tool. If you could easily determine that a garment fit you and looked good you were far more likely to decide to buy it and to make that decision quickly. In the dressing rooms there were even better mirrors and they often had shoes you could try on with clothes to achieve the proper effect – again, an effort on the part of the store to provide the shopper with the necessary tools with which to make a decision to purchase the garment. Stores also had alterations people and tailors on hand to guarantee a proper fit. Consulting with a professional tailor on staff was a free service provided by most stores. Trousers would be hemmed at the proper length, sleeve length adjusted to the best length for the customer, etc. This was most often a service included in the purchase of the garment. Only really extensive alterations were charged extra. Did this work as a sales technique? Yes! people came back to the same store and the same sales person over and over again. I am always annoyed in contemporary stores by the lack of mirrors on the sales floors.
Upon inspection of the shaping this coat has beautiful shaping through the shoulders. Note the sloped seaming and the way the raglan sleeves are constructed. The fur scarf can be removed so this can be fully seen. And, the scarf can be worn by itself on other garments! A silk scarf can be used at the neckline on the coat also to change the look and presentation of the coat! You can wrap the scarf in a similar manner as the fur crossing one side over the other and slipping one end under the fabric loop to hold it in place! I do not have a silk scarf on hand at this moment to demonstrate this but will come back and do so again later. You can visualize how it will look by substituting a silk scarf for the fur scarf.
This coat is beautiful and well made and I am quite proud of myself for restoring it and bringing it back into circulation as a useful, wearable and admirable piece of vintage clothing. It is a prime example of why we should save vintage clothing from the junk heap, rescue it from those who want to throw it out and reuse and re-appreciate it. In my personal opinion the design of this coat is exceptionally nice!
Just as I was finishing writing this post I received a link to an article in an email from a friend who also loves vintage furs. The link was to an article she found about vintage furs coming back into style and issues surrounding the controversy of the subject. Please read it. It will be my next post!
Wearing Vintage Furs and the Controversies Surrounding Them.
Rare and beautiful historic clothing and accessories, including coats and furs, are for sale in my online shops. If you see something on this blog that you are interested in buying, but do not find it for sale in my shops message me on Etsy or Ebay and I will get back to you about availability. I check messages daily and can always prepare a special listing for you if you do not find it already listed in the shops.
You can reach professional Swiss furrier Rene Vogel via email Rene’ Vogel <rdcvogel@msn.com> or by phone at (425)322-9638 to schedule appointments for all your fur related needs.
I want to make it clear to my readers that I chose to write about Rene Vogel to share information I have learned from him about furs and to provide them access to him as a reliable professional furrier should they wish to find one. Rene is not paying me to write about him
Posted in Manton de Manila | Comments Off on Buying & Renovating Vintage Coats, Vintage Fur Coats and Wool Coats with Fur Trim
