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Lady Violette

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Posts Tagged ‘Hats’

Edward Hopper Inspired Portrait Cloche Hat Pattern by Lady Violette de Courcy , Part 2 ~ Knitted Bow Tutorial

Wednesday, February 12th, 2014

My Edward Hopper Inspired Portrait Cloche Hat Decorated with a Knitted Bow

The Edward Hopper Inspired Portrait Cloche Hat is trimmed with a knitted bow which both adds a decorative vintage touch to the hat and conveniently covers and conceals the side seam over the right ear. The pattern for this hat is in yesterday’s blog post here.

Cast on 18 stitches on Size 8 US needles and work 12 inches of stockinette stitch to make a piece of fabric for the bow.

To make the bow cast on 18 stitches on size 8 US needles in the same bulky weight yarn as you use for the hat. Work in stockinette stitch for 12 inches, then bind off. (Stockinette stitch is Knit one row, Purl one row.) Cut the yarn but leave a tail of yarn about 12 inches long to sew the center seam of the bow together.

Do not block the piece of fabric you have made for the bow. You will want the selvedge edges to curl in order to create a nice soft plump looking bow.

Sew the center seam together on what will be the back underside of the bow when it is attached to the hat.

Turn the bow and fold ends inward toward the center. Sew the ends together along the center seam which will be on the underside of the bow when it is sewn to the hat.

Turnover and cinch the bow fabric together in the center with a piece of yarn to create the bow tie shape.

Turn the bow so that the right side is facing upwards. Place a piece of yarn under the center of the bow and tie it together to cinch the bow together in the middle.

Gather together , cinch and tie yarn on the backside to form bow.

Bow should be about 6 inches in length.

You have created a fat puffy little bow about 6 inches long. Smooth the edges and both sides of the bow with your fingers to make the shape pretty.

Place bow on side seam of hat to check the fit.

Set it over the seam of the hat to be sure it is long enough to cover the sewn seam and conceal it.

Wrap yarn tightly around middle of bow several times to create the center. Tie securely on back side and tuck in ends.

Next: Wrap a generous length of yarn around the center of the bow several times tightly to create the middle section of the bow. Tie it firmly on the back side so it will stay put. Tuck in the yarn ends. Your bow is now finished and ready to sew onto your hat.

Center the bow over the side seam and make sure one narrow edge is along the edge of the brim fold and the other is along the edge where you picked up and knit the stitches to create the crown of the hat. I think it is a good idea to try the hat on at this point and make sure you like the position of the bow.

Place bow on hat and sew in place.

When you are satisfied with the placement sew the bow to the hat using yarn and a large yarn needle. Sew the bow on securely but only sew through the bottom layer of the bow fabric so that the top layer of the bow fabric is free and stays puffy and full. I sewed my bows to the center along the side seam of the hat and sewed it down along both short ends ~ sewing along the bottom of the brim and attaching the other end of the bow to the joining stitches along the crown.

Only sew the bottom part of the bow loops to the hat. Leave the top sides of the bow free and open so that you can put your fingers inside to plump up the bow.

I left the top loops of the bow free so that I can shape the bow with my fingers by reaching inside them to plump up the bow.

The bow will cover the side seam and the wearers right ear when the hat is worn.

When wearing the hat the bow should be placed over your right ear. It should completely cover and hide the side seam of the hat.

This type of bow can also be attached to a barrette or hair comb and used as a hair ornament. You can make these bows larger or smaller and use them to decorate hair ornaments, hats, gloves, the backs of little girl’s dresses, and sweaters, even gift boxes! Knitted bows are very pretty and very easy to make. Small ones can even be used to decorate mittens and booties or baby shoes! I made one and applied it to the back of a little girl’s knitted coat at the top of a pleat. They are easy to make and have many uses.

The Edward Hopper Inspired Portrait Cloche Hat in two color ways designed by lady Violette de Courcy

Edward Hopper Inspired Portrait Cloche Hat and Free Knitting Pattern ~ Part 1, by Lady Violette de Courcy

Tuesday, February 11th, 2014

Edward Hopper Inspired Portrait Cloche Hat Designed by Lady Violette de Courcy

I created this Edward Hopper Inspired Portrait Cloche Hat to attend an art museum opening of Edward Hopper’s paintings. I wanted to make a hat in the style of the ones the women in his paintings wore. I also wanted it to look like a proper 1920’s – 30’s formed felt cloche hat, rather than a knitted cap so I made it very thick and sculptural with a turned back rim and graduated shaping. I made a very thick sculptural bow to cover the right side seam of the hat. It comes down over the right ear and has the added benefit of being like a very warm ear muff!

 

This hat is very thick and warm, but I may have to try making one with a bow earmuff on both sides now! I’m thinking of ways to keep even warmer on my 4th day of being completely snowed in! And it is still snowing out! We are in the middle of a huge snowstorm in Seattle and I am taking advantage of using this time to post my recently knitted stuff on Ravelry! You can take a look at my  Lady Violette Ravelry project page here .

 

I’m really happy with the way this hat turned out. The construction was an experiment that fortunately turned out perfectly and is exactly what I had in mind. I am writing the pattern so I can offer it to other knitters who would like to make one. I am making this pattern available to you as a free pattern ~ a kind of Happy Valentine to all you knitters out there. I hope you enjoy it.

I wear this one with a vintage navy blue 1930’s coat in wool gaberdine and a purple wool dress. The outfit is totally inspired by the women in Hopper’s paintings who are always dressed in strong clear distinctive colors. I get a lot of inspiration for my clothing from painters. I like to recreate the moods of the paintings in the way I dress. I can also wear this hat with a purple wool wrap coat with a big ruffled collar. This is more of a 1970’s look, but also very successful.

Size: This hat is made with slight negative ease. I made it to fit myself with a 21 inch head but it fit a 22 inch and 23 inch head just fine as well because it stretched, comfortably, to fit. Note: When you fold the brim back you should try on the hat and adjust the amount of fabric you fold back to the individual wearers preference and your opinion as to what amount of fabric turned back looks the best. Based on my knitting experience I do not think you will find it necessary to adjust the number of stitches or the gauge to fit people within the above size ranges for a comfortable and attractive fit. That is between a 21 – 23 inch head circumference. Please note: I am very finicky about patterns being written clearly and correctly. I have tested this pattern by making it twice myself. I have finished knitting a brown one as well and will photograph it to add to this post within the next few days.

Yarn: Use a BULKY weight yarn.  I used Baby Alpaca Grande Hand Dye from Plymouth Yarn in the color way of Blue/ Purple. This is a Bulky weight yarn. The hat and big bow took 2 skeins. Thus the yarn for this hat cost $40 plus sales tax! Each ball retails for $19.95. Rather expensive for a knitted hat but soft, warm and really beautiful so well worth it. The hat itself takes well over 1 skein of yarn and with the bow you will use about 1 and 7/8 skeins. These skeins are 110 yds each. If you are substituting another bulky yarn with the same gauge you should begin with 220 yds.I plan to use the small amount of left over yarn to make small bows like the one on the hat to decorate a pair of purple gloves I have made. There is just the right amount left over to accomplish this.

Needles:  sizes: US 10.5 – 6.5mm, US 10 – 6 mm, US 9 – 5.5 mm, US 8 – 5 mm, US 7 – 4.5 mm. ( Yes! You will need all 5 sizes of needles to create the sculptural shaping required for this hat!) I used 10 inch long sets of straight needles for the brim of the hat and a set of longer size 9 needles for the crown. I think they are 15 inches long. They are the long old fashioned straight needles and I found it really helpful to have the extra length to handle all the stitches at the beginning of the crown section.

EDWARD HOPPER INSPIRED PORTRAIT CLOCHE HAT

Using 10 inch long straight needles as I did or your choice of alternatives:

Work the BRIM:

1) Begin by casting on 42 stitches on size US 10.5 needles

2) Change to size US 10 needles to work the brim:

Mark wrong side with a small safety pin to help you keep track of your work:

Row 1: (Wrong Side) *K2, p1,: repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 2: ( Right Side) Work stitches as they appear.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until fabric measures 14 and 1/2 inches from beginning edge;

Change to size US 9 needles and continue in ribbing as established until fabric measures 16″ from beginning edge;

Change to size US 8 needles and continue in ribbing as established until fabric measures 17.5 ” from beginning edge;

Change to size US 7 needles and continue in ribbing as established until fabric measures 20″ from beginning edge.

Bind off all stitches in established rib pattern still using the size 7 needles.

The Crown will look like this from the top when finished !

Work the CROWN:

Using long set of straight US #9 needles, Right side facing, begin at Cast On edge and Pick Up and Knit 68 stitches evenly divided along the selvedge to the Bind Off edge.

Rows 1,3,5,7, and 9 : ( Wrong Side) Purl.

Decrease Rows:

Row 2: K1, *k4, k2tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1 = 57 stitches total.

Row 4: K1, *k3, k2tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1 = 46 stitches total.

Row 6: K1, *k2; k2tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1 = 35 stitches total.

Row 8: K1, * k1, k2tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1 = 24 stitches total.

Row 10: K1; *k2tog, repeat from * to last stitch, k1 = 13 stitches total.

Row 11: P1, *p2tog; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2 = 8 stitches total.

Break the yarn, leaving a 10″ tail. Weave tail through remaining 8 stitches twice, then tie off on inside.

SEW SIDES OF HAT TOGETHER:

Thread yarn on a large eye yarn needle and sew sides of hat, including the sides of the crown, together in method of your choice,  being careful to match the lines of ribbing together.

FITTING AND FOLDING BACK EDGE OF BRIM:

Try on hat. The seam should  be on the right side. The narrower portion of the graduated size ribbing should be in the front of the hat. Turn edge of brim back approximately 1.5 to 2 Inches. It should be turned back the same amount all the way around. How much is a matter of desired preference. I turned the brim back so that the edge rested on the lower portion of the 6th ridge of ribbing. Make sure it is evenly turned back all the way around and the hat and brim are adjusted to your preference. Thread yarn needle with yarn and starting on Inside of hat, under the folded back brim, insert needle all the way through the brim inside of a ribbing channel. Then insert needle from front to inside so that you are making one invisible stitch through all the layers of the brim to tack it down securely and hold the folded back brim in place. Tie this single tacking stitch down, then cut the yarn and repeat the process about 4x evenly spaced inside of the hat to keep the folded brim securely, but invisibly in its folded back position.

MAKE BOW:

Using US #8 needles cast on 18 stitches. Work in Stockinette Stitch until piece measures 12 Inches in length. Bind Off. Sew the two 18 stitch long edges together.  Fold so that the seam is inside and  underneath and in the middle of the piece. Take a generous length of yarn and wrap this piece in the middle cinching it together to form a stylized bow. Secure on the wrong side under the seam. Place this bow over the side seam of the hat vertically and sew it down firmly to completely cover the seam on the turned back section of the brim and the side seam of the hat above it. Sew it down firmly all the way around. It should be worn placed over your right ear.

I have added a Part 2 to this pattern, The Knitted Bow Tutorial

FINI

The bow sewn into place covering the right side seam of the hat. Bow is placed over the right ear when hat is worn.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jane Austin Discussing Her Hat

Monday, January 27th, 2014

From Jane Austin – Letter to Cassandra, 1798

“Next week shall begin my operations on my hat, on which you know my principal hopes of happiness depend.”

Just began knitting a new hat and remembered this delightful quote from Jane! Times haven’t changed. If this turns out well I, too, shall be very happy!

It’s Spring So Let’s All Get Inpired to Wear Hats Again & Consider the Princess WOW! Hat Collection Funding Campaign on Indiegogo, too!

Tuesday, March 5th, 2013

A Classic Handmade Feather Beret From Lady Violette's Personal Hat Collection in Brown and Green Handmade by Millinery Artist/ Designer Princess WOW!

I was going through my own collection of hats this weekend while getting out some pretty ones for the spring season when I received a notice from my milliner friend Princess WOW! about her Indiegogo campaign efforts. She wanted my help to spread the word. I am glad to do so through this post, but I also want to get people back into the mood to wear hats! Easter is around the corner – a classic time to wear a pretty hat and hats just generally inspire people, cheer them up and make them feel better. As the flowers begin to bloom again in the spring women should take inspiration from them to bloom beautifully in pretty hats and colorful scarves as well! It is a wide open opportunity to express ourselves in the performance art of wearing a hat which is always fun, easy and a lift for the spirits of both the wearer and those viewing her wearing the hats! Hats, are an innocent and easy way to bring people pleasure. Wearing a hat is fun and takes some personal style and confidence – as demonstrated by the young lady in the picture at the end of this post.

Making hats is a special skill ,as is marketing them, as you can find out by reading this: Mindy Fradkin attended New York’s prestigious Fashion Institute of Technology to learn to make hats in the classic way from old school masters of the craft. She is now Princess WOW! – A Milliner Extraordinaire –  working to raise money for her new collection of beautiful artistic hats through an Indiegogo fundraising campaign. This is a worthy cause if you love hats, hat makers and designers and you can participate on a small or large level. Here is the link to the campaign which is an interesting thing to know about in itself. I am hearing more and more about artists and businesses raising money for their projects in this manner and having read her funding campaign now understand more about how these work. If you are curious about that as well as helping her raise the funds she needs I suggest you check it out too! Mindy Fradkin is Princess WOW! the hat designer, and she has done a good job putting her proposal together. I have known her for years and own over 20 of her beautiful timeless hats myself.  I can testify to her design brilliance and reliability. Of course it costs money to put together a collection and even more to attend high end craft shows where people can go to see and buy your hats. There is much more detail to the millinery business than putting decorations on a hat! Go here to read about what she needs to do and gain appreciation for the business side of millinery as well the beauty of handmade hats.  http://igg.me/at/princesswowhats.

I love wearing hats myself and have amassed quite a collection of artist made and vintage ones over the last two decades. I have been a personal client of Princess WOWS! hats since the early 1990’s! I wrote an article about what happens to me when I wear one of her hats for a magazine in New York years ago.  Here it is again, to get you into the mood of wearing a Princess WOW! hat yourself.

“Confessions of a Head Turner” – or What Happens When I Wear a Beautiful Hat.

“Confessions of a Head Turner ” was originally  written by Lady Violette for Princess WOW! when she was primarily  known as Mindy Fradkin’s Important Hats. It was published in 1995 in Breukelen Magazine in NYC  with accompanying photos of  Lady Violette wearing Mindy’s hats. It still holds true and it is still fun, so we decided to bring it out for contemplation if you find yourself considering wearing hats again this spring and summer as we do. (We being Lady Violette & Princess WOW! and our young model Mademoiselle Coco.)

Over the years we became good friends through out mutual love of hats and our design work together. It is also interesting to note that, years after I originally wrote this piece, Princess WOW! met her husband, artist Roland Mousaa, because he saw her wearing one of her hats while waiting in a line to be seated at a restaurant. Just as I wrote, something special always happens when you wear her hats! A real life adventure!

Now Mindy Fradkin is Princess WOW! and her main focus has changed from making hats to her work for The Smile Revolution but she still makes and wears her own hats in her concerts and performances and for private clients. Lady Violette has taken good care of all her Important Hats and Princess WOW! hats and still wears them regularly. We love hats! And spring is coming! A new hat for Easter has always been a tradition! So, it has gotten me  thinking a lot about hats ~  Hats off to Princess WOW!  And a stroll down memory lane with ~

“The Confessions of  Head Turner”

I love to wear Mindy’s Important Hats. I never go without an Important Hat. I have two dozen of them. They make adventures happen.

I meet men. Men follow me. I feel mysterious, like a heroine in a novel. Like Zelda Fitzgerald or Greta Garbo. In an Important Hat you create an indelible impression… you become an enigma, unforgettable, memorable…

It’s evocative of romance and another time. A hat is an emphatic statement. Jewelry is more subtle, smaller, meant for close up. A hat can be seen across a street or restaurant. At a distance in a gallery or museum. It casts the wearer’s magic spell…

In giving up hats, women gave up coquetry. Mindy’s hats bring it back, but they are not vintage, not ingenue. They are totally modern & sophisticated, they’re history, too…

They’re true art, completely original form and construction. The simplest looking design transforms a face.

She is the Rodin of the sculptured hat.

When you wear her hats heads turn.

I began collecting Mindy’s hats if 1992. Now I can’t stop!! Each hat represents a different facet of my inner personality to the viewer. They allow me to express the different aspects of my character.

Together Mindy and I continue to discover more ~ a great talent in a designer for her client.

Thank you Mindy for presenting my many inner characters to me and to the the world… To love me you (I mean anyone,) must know me. Your hats project aspects of my inner soul to the outside world (when I choose to do so by wearing one.)

Lady Violet de Courcy, Ballet Dancer, Jewelry Designer, Writer and Mindy’s Muse

Mindy Fradkin-Mousaa, now The Princess of WOW! & renowned hat designer and comedienne performs using her hats, in shows and concerts and at “Hat Happenings” regularly around New York City. She also currently works for The Smile Revolution raising conscious awareness for the healing power of a genuine smile. She is a singer, songwriter, and concert promoter but still creates wonderful extravagant hats for private clients and participates in select craft shows  You can contact her at:

www.theprincessofwow.com

For INSPIRATION here is something to think about! Madamoiselle Coco below, who is 4 years old, wisely says, “You can wear hats anytime and all the time.”  Here she wears a white vintage hat with a veil while out doing errands on a Saturday morning.  She says “You can always wear a hat. It makes every occasion special. You do not need a special event or an occasion such as a wedding to wear one! ” Here she is getting a manicure at the local village salon where her unique personal style and lovely vintage veiled hat garnered quite a few compliments! This stylish young lady already has a collection of special hats! “When you wear a lovely hat people smile at you and stop to talk to you and compliment you on it. They tell you how much they like it and they want to meet you! Sometimes they even tell you that seeing you in your hat makes them feel happy! Wearing a hat is definitely worthwhile!”

A lovely young lady - Mademoiselle Coco - wearing a vintage hat with veil shows us that we can wear hats as we go about our regular activities everyday!

Marlene Dietrich in a Fabulous Fur Hat ~ “Fur is Fabulous” Isn’t it?

Monday, January 14th, 2013

Marlene Dietrich in a Fabulous Fur Hat!

“Fur is Fabulous” is my personal favorite quote ~ I made it up myself for myself ~ and tonight I came across a great photo of Marlene Dietrich in a fur hat that I want to share with you. I suspect this might actually be a fur muff that she plopped on top of her head like I did to create a fur hat during a photo session. Anyway, I like it!

Fur is Fabulous~ photo by Leigh LeDare

Just for fun, here is my own Fur is Fabulous picture of me wearing my black fox fur cuff spontaneously plopped on top of my head during a photo session as a hat.

Grace in Furs ~ Beautiful Grace Kelly Wearing Fabulous Furs

Thursday, January 10th, 2013

A Perfect Dress for Valentines Day!

Grace Kelly looked particularly fetching in furs. Here are a few examples. I love this red silk dress trimmed in mink cuffs, and, of course, my favorite photo of her in which she is wearing both furs and flowers together

Gracefully Wearing Furs and Flowers at the Same Time!

is the one I showed in my last post where she is wearing a spring hat decorated with roses with the most luxurious looking long sable fur coat on the planet. I love this picture because she looks both warm and happy!

The Famous White Mink Stole of the 1950's

Attending formal affairs she often wore this white mink stole which epitomized the 50’s chic and accentuated her blondness.

Grace at a State Event in Monaco with Her Prince

This stole looked particularly good with diamonds and long formal gowns required for state events. I think she fueled every woman’s desire to own a mink stole in the 1950’s.

Here is the amazing full length sable again ~ photographed in New York City with throngs of adoring fans looking on! Grace, as usual looking really warm and happy.

Grace After an Acting Class in NYC

This photo appeared in Life magazine and the caption read, ” Grace arrives home (to her 5th Avenue Apartment ) after an acting class.” Grace was not a starving actress barely surviving in NYC!

 

Grace in a Full Length Pastel Mink with Her Famous Kelly Bag

Shopping in Paris with Prince Rainier Grace was often caught by the paparazzi wearing spectacular furs.

Long Blond Mink on Beautiful Blond Grace Carrying the Kelly Bag Which She Made Famous

This next photo better shows the luxurious full length pastel mink fur coat which perfectly complimented her cool blondness. Graces life as a princess was the thing of fairy tales for most women. It was also her job, as Rainier’s wife to make Monnaco look good! She performed this job of princess as perfectly as she had performed as a film actress.

A Formal Portrait Again Featuring Her Favorite White Mink Stole

Monaco’s main industry was, and still is, tourism. Grace was tremendous publicity draw for Monaco. Her life was a fantasy for most women and they loved to read about her in the press. Of course her fashion choices were heavily emulated. Her spectacular designer gowns, jewels and furs were the things other women dreamed of. And she was the perfect real life model to show off designers work.

Strolling in Paris with Prince Rainier Wearing a Fur Stole Over a Wool Suit

I realize this was a job for her ~ she had to look perfect and be perfectly groomed at all times as the wife of Rainier and the Princess of Monaco. Grace did so gracefully. She never had any down time. Grace became the epitome of old world elegance as she aged.

The Epitome of 1960's European Glamor

She was always perfectly groomed and meticulously dressed and throughout it all she retained her personal charm. She epitomized her name.

The Grace Kelly look was famous for her gigantic Kelly bag, her designer sunglasses, (she had notoriously poor eyesight so she probably wore these because she really needed them to avoid eye strain and headaches,) her jewels, her exquisite Hermes accessories such as gloves, belts, and scarves, her beautiful designer evening gowns, day dresses and meticulously tailored suits, her hats, and the ultimate and most flattering fine accessory – Prince Rainier, the prince of a husband. Grace’s real life was like that of a heroine in a romance novel to the public.

Of course, it was a real life and it had its real ups and downs, such as unruly teenagers and her unfortunate untimely death. Real life always has its difficulties! But people like to dream and Grace Kelly was the dream girl of her time.

More Inspiration ~ Marlene Dietrich & Grace Kelly Wearing Flowers With Fabulous Furs

Wednesday, January 9th, 2013

Ultra Fluffy Bleached White Fox Fur Frames Marlene's Face ~ Note the Corsage of Violets!

Marlene Dietrich in all her beautifully lit beauty wearing beautiful luxurious face framing fox furs. I love the added accent of the violet corsage! Nowadays it seems oddly out of season to wear flowers with furs but this was not always so. Apparently women wore warm furs over flimsy floral dresses with floral corsages or flower trimmed hats in past eras. It was certainly charmingly ultra feminine. And solved the problem of wearing a sweet spring light dress while freezing to death on Easter!

Grace Kelly Shortly After Her Arrival in Monaco

This is one of my favorite photographs of Grace Kelly wearing what looks like an exquisite sable coat with an adorable 1950’s rose trimmed pill box hat and white gloves. She looks so fresh and girlish and happy! And warm! So you see, it is possible to wear a spring outfit and not freeze to death! I have found many photos of Grace in furs and she was obviously someone who preferred to be comfortably warm by wearing a proper coat! More Grace in furs coming soon!

A Fashion Ode to Janis Joplin Jacket Part II ~ Philosophy & Ensemble

Saturday, September 29th, 2012

The Ode to Janis Joplin Jacket Inside Worn Outside is a Customized Vintage Fur Coat Made For Janis Joplin

The Ode to Janis Joplin Jacket ~ a Customized Vintage Fur Coat, Eight Strand Ode to Janis Joplin Love Bead Necklace, and The Styled for Janis Joplin Vintage 1930's Persian Lamb and Fur Felt Hat.

 

I recently posted photos of this Fantastic Ode to Janis Joplin Jacket in my first post about her contribution to fashion  The Fantastic Ode to Janis Joplin Jacket ~ One Way to Use Vintage Ties and Furs.

The Back of The Ode to Janis Joplin Jacket Inside Worn Outside

Today I am showing the rest of the opulent characteristic of Janis Joplin Ensemble and The Janis Joplin Accessories that go with it.

The Front of the Ode to Janis Joplin Jacket with the Fur Side Out

Janis loved beads and piled on many strands at once. She was even photographed for Rolling Stone wearing only her necklaces and joked that you couldn’t tell she was nude because she was covered with beads.

The Magnificent Ode to Janis Joplin Necklace

Here is the beautiful eight strand Ode to Janis Joplin Bead Necklace of silver, marcasite, garnets, Swarovsky crystals, rubies, and antique and contemporary glass artist lamp work beads. The ornate clasp is antique silver studded with marcasites.

The Antique Silver & Marcasite Clasp on the Ode to Janis Joplin Necklace

The Ode to Janis Joplin Necklace Over a Wine Silk Burnout Velvet Blouse & Midnight Blue Velvet Tiered Gypsy Style Skirt

The necklace is worn over a wine burnout silk velvet blouse with a dark blue velvet bohemian style three tiered gypsy skirt.

The Crazy Quilted Inside of The Ode to Janis Joplin Jacket is Made of Many Kinds of Beautiful Antique Fabrics and Pieces of Needlework Which Make It a Unique Piece of Bohemian Style Handmade Textile Art.

Janis loved opulent fabrics in deep rich colors.

Legendary Ode to Janis Joplin Antique Black Leather Boots

Janis also loved collected and wore antique boots.

Ode to Janis Joplin Real Victorian Brown Leather Boots

Here is a brown pair of real Victorian Boot Janis Joplin loved and a black pair.

Janis was notoriously quoted in ” FASHION NEWS: I went out & bought myself a $35 pair of boots. Oh they are so groovey!! They’re old-fashioned in their style-tight w/buttons up the front. Black. FANTASTIC! When I get back, I’m going to rent a sewing machine & make myself some sort of beautiful/outlandish dress to go w/them. ”
– Janis Joplin, September 1966

The Ode to Janis Joplin Jacket & The One of a Kind Eight Strand Ode to Janis Joplin Bead Necklace Worn with A Characteristic Janis Joplin Style Ensemble of a Wine Burnout Velvet Blouse and a Midnight Blue Velvet Skirt is Opulent and Amazing!

Here ~ in the gorgeous exotic fabrics Janis Joplin loved ~ is the Ode to Janis Joplin Jacket with the full ensemble of vintage midnight blue velvet three tiered gypsy skirt, vintage wine burnout velvet blouse, custom made one of a kind eight strand Ode to Janice Joplin Necklace of love beads, real Victorian boots and two men’s silk ties worn overlapping each other as a neck scarf. Her fans loved her homemade dresses, skirts and bell bottom pants, and piles of jewelry. And, of course, her customized vintage real fur jackets and hats.

Ode to Janis Joplin Vintage 1930's New Orleans Hat Trimmed in Persian Lamb and Custom Decorated for Janis with Burgundy Ostrich Feathers and A Jeweled Antique Brooch

To top off her outfits Janis often wore vintage fur or felt hats. This Ode to Janis Joplin Hat is originally from New Orleans and is trimmed in curly black Persian lamb fur and decorated with a fantastic jeweled antique brooch, and ostrich feathers! It was picked up at a thrift shop on a jazz festival tour of New Orleans and further embellished with her trademark curling ostrich feathers dyed a rich pink red and a gigantic jeweled brooch. Like everything she owned it is personalized and one of a kind. Janis loved to add colorful ostrich feathers in this form or in elaborate feather boas pinned into her hair.

Janis Joplin sewed! And she shopped in thrift stores. She sought out fabrics, notions and vintage clothes that inspired her. She put things together in her own way. Because she was on stage she inspired the people who saw her live in the 1960s to do the same thing for themselves in their own way. Everything was individually  done in this way of dressing and one of a kind, This look was very personal. You had to create much of it yourself from found objects so how you combined things became highly personal. You could not go out to a mall and successfully create such a look.  Janis Joplin made and designed many of her own costumes. She also worked with a designer friend to help execute her ideas as she became more successful. She always dressed as a performer ~ simply because she liked to ~ both on and off stage. For her life was really a continual performance. And she dressed accordingly. To her clothing was another form of her artistic expression and she derived great joy in expressing herself this way.

Her fans loved her style. Her influence on the way people dressed in the 60s effected the entire world. She became one of the 100 most influential people in fashion of all time. Because of the way she herself dressed and how much people liked that. Other people wanted to express themselves and their own individuality in a similar way. How she dressed epitomized  freedom of choice and self expression and inspired the rest of the world to do the same. No one copied her exactly. That was not the point of her influence. The main point she got across to other people was it is a good thing to be yourself and dress in your own way.

She collected fabrics. She loved exotic materials such as silks, velvets, brocades and metallic jerseys. She wore luxurious leathers, furs, and many beads and jewels.~ particularly armloads of bracelets and many rings on every fingers all at the same time.  She wore fluffy colorfully dyed ostrich feather boas in her free flowing long naturally wavy hair. The custom made Ode to Janis Joplin Jacket is hand sewn and skillfully embroidery stitched with many of these types of collected fabrics, including ribbons, hand crocheted lace doilies, embroidered birds and flowers and thrifted Italian silks taken from vintage men’s neckties. People loved Janis Joplin for her music and for her fashion sense. And most of all for her sense of freedom of self.

Janis Joplin’s self made image and often home made style and fashion choices perfectly symbolized what was going on in the world and society at the time. She became the bohemian fashion queen of the hippie movement. She had been ridiculed as unattractive and ugly during her high school years and it must have been tremendously empowering for her ~ in a good way ~ to be admired and respected for her artistic taste and fashion sense! She would probably be amazed to know what long lasting effect she has had on fashion today. Janis Joplin was also innocent and pure in her fashion choices because they came from her heart and soul in the same way her music did. It was improvised spontaneously in the same way she interpreted her songs. Janis always put her own unique twist on things!  Her fashions were in no way commercial or mass produced. Her lovely clothes were lovingly chosen and made either by herself or by other artists. She spearheaded a movement to dress the way you wanted to that swept across the world. In her way she was the ultimate dress reformist. And she accomplished this as a side line to her music and unintentionally. She became tremendously influential in fashion just by doing her own thing.

Slashed Fur Sleeves Patched With Silk From Vintage Italian Designer Neckties.

“Do Your Own Thing” incidentally became a catch phrase of the times! And the basic theme and message of many songs and stage musicals like Hair, and Do Your Own Thing, and OH! Calcutta. I think Janis would have loved that! Janis Joplin’s style was not commercially created by stylists and promotion experts.  She did not have a huge clothing budget or makeup artists and hair stylists following her around at all times. She did not get done up with hours and hours of preparation for interviews and personal appearances. She refused to wear makeup because she hated the way it looked and felt and she allowed her hair to naturally do its own thing – which meant grow and be wavy and simply put some scarves or feather boas in it to add color and volume.

I think she got dressed like some 3 – 5 year old girls do! They have a closet full of clothes and a costume box and left to their own devices put on and mix up colors and styles wearing whatever appeals to them with no care for what others think every time they get dressed. They often look great in a mix of colors and accessories worn in unconventional ways. It is all done quite spontaneously and I hear grown ups say, “Wow! That looks great! I wish we could wear those things and those colors and fabrics together!” And the mother of the child says, “I don’t choose her clothes or accessories. she does it all herself!”  I, personally believe that Janis Joplin got dressed in this same way. And, as she made more money and could afford to buy what she wanted she became all the more colorful and free and self expressive in her clothing choices.

These were simple natural choices for her that were fun and lighthearted and easy for her to accomplish. She had a tremendous natural ease and vulnerability and that was very appealing. It came through in her singing and dancing of course, but it was also how she looked. It amazes me to consider this in contrast to the singers of today – such as Lady Gaga, Boyonce, Gwen Stefani, Rhianna, Madonna and many others who have such commercialized, highly manufactured, expensive to produce and high maintenance personal and stage styles. Janis had none of this “Professional Help.” It is important to realize that she was completely responsible for creating her look herself. I find it hard to see the person under the modern stars styling whereas Janis Joplin was personally completely exposed at all times.

In The Ode to Janis Joplin Jacket- Slashed Furs Reveal Black Cloth Sections of Inner Darkness Beneath the Outer Layers. Rich Deep Colors of Soft Silk Like the Depths of Janis Joplin's Voice and Amazingly Warm and Beautiful Yet Damaged and Vulnerable Furs Enable the Artist to Wear Her Soul On Her Sleeves.

Janice Joplin sang as if she cut herself open and showed us the very insides of her own self and soul in her music in every performance she did. This was the essence of her style and way of dressing as well. Thus, in the Ode to Janis Joplin Jacket the slashed skin sleeves and torn furs revealing sky colored satin embellished with birds embroidered in psychedelic colors of thread perched next to dark rich silks and patches of exotic brocade that symbolize the person and artist Janis Joplin was to those who saw her in the clothing. There are some important patches of personal darkness too in exposed inner sections of black fabric that are open to view under the the torn away outer sections of the amazingly warm and beautiful, yet vulnerable and damaged fur. The Ode to Janis Joplin Jacket is really just like she was ~ original, unusual, delicate, beautiful but rough and exquisite and raw and different all at the same time.

It is important to note that Janis had no aversion to wearing real furs or leather and openly did both. She also loved animals and most notoriously owned a beautiful and affectionate sheep dog. Janis loved her dog. And other furry animals. As far as I know she only wore vintage furs made from pelts of animals killed long before that she rescued from thrift shops. I think she felt, as I do, that rescuing an old fur and giving it new life by wearing it or making it into a beautiful new article of clothing was a way of honoring the already long dead animal from whom it came.

Two Beautiful Men;s Vintage Silk Ties Are Overlapped and Used as a Woman's Scarf Encircling the Lapels of the Ode to Janis Joplin Jacket. The Navy Paisley Tie ifs Vintage Liberty of London and The Wine Colored Floral is Vintage From the Metropolitan Museum of Art Collection.

In Janis Joplin’s  characteristically creative personal way of repurposing materials she loved beautiful thrifted silk men’s ties – a vintage navy blue paisley patterned one from Liberty of London and a vintage burgundy floral one from the Metropolitan Museum of Art Collection are overlapped and used as a woman’s scarf to frame the neckline lapels on the fur side of the Ode to Janis Joplin Jacket. This “scarf of ties”  treatment works in nicely with the crazy quilting of velvets, brocades, lace, ribbons, embroidery and antique silks used in the jacket. some of the silk patches in the jacket came from old neckties as well.

Janice influenced other people to do their own thing and express themselves through their clothes as much as she did. Many people, especially in the 1960s and 70s did so really well. Because, like she did, they “got down! ” They got down and dressed themselves with things they found and made and put together in their own way.They created their own version of an artistic and eclectic look. And this really worked. People were very often beautifully and very individually dressed  in that time. It was a very experimental period. People wore things they really loved with boldness and confidence. It was wonderful to see the things they came up with.

Ever since she came on the scene she has been copied commercially. The mass market has tried to benefit from her style and vision by mass producing cheap imitation versions of her look. They usually look like chap imitations too! It is not exactly a mass produced look! To achieve it and pull off something with a similar success you have to get to the soul of the matter of self dressing. You can do it inexpensively or using expensive fabrics and jewels. You can do anything as long as it is honest and original, preferably self made, found or artist made. It is best done by artists that are your friends or do work that is meaningful to you personally.

You will not be able to go to a mall and assemble pieces to give you such a look. If you do that, or follow the conservative commercial version of “Getting The Janis Joplin Look” as advised in a teen or adult woman’s fashion magazines and certain advice online your attempt to achieve the real Janis Joplin Look will fail completely! I have seen some ridiculous articles and advice columns in magazines and online with utterly tepid versions of the look. You cannot be conservative about this. You have to be absolutely fearless as Janis was. She actually often used very fine luxurious fabrics, furs, beads and jewelry and had a passion for beautiful old high quality boots. She found many of her beautiful fabrics and clothes antique and second hand and this can still be done. As an artist Janis gave old things a new life in her assemblages. Her clothes and outfits were actually artistic collages of wearable items and they became art with her interpretation. Again and again and again her fashion interpretations were like her musical interpretations ~ original and unique with a very personal twist. That is the secret to achieving her look. If you can do that for yourself you will be able to achieve a truly Janis Joplin inspired personal look.

All the Ode to Janis Joplin Clothing and Accessories pictured are from Lady Violette de Courcy’s personal collection, The Lady Violette de Courcy Vintage Clothing Collection.  She is a writer, art and vintage clothing collector and fashion historian.

Photos for this article are by Violette de Courcy

Meet LaMarelle ~ An Artist Who Coutures Her Own Gallery of Unique Designs From Treasures of the Past

Sunday, August 12th, 2012

HER TRUNK RUNNETH OVER! ~ A Still Life Assemblage by La Marelle Featuring a Grandiose Selection of Her Coutured Vintage Designs: photograph by Mike Burnside

 

I have a talented friend named Marelle, an artist and designer, whom I want to introduce to my readers. La Marelle loves vintage fashions and accessories as much as I do! I met her on Etsy where we both have shops. Marelle finds previously owned, loved and gently used vintage purses, handbags, hats, shoes, jewelry and hair ornaments and waves her magic wand over them to couture them into new transformed pieces using the original old piece as a base or canvas, on which to create a unique new piece of fashionable wearable art. She describes what she does to a vintage item to recreate it as one of her own the process of couturing it.

Every item Marelle coutures is different and one of a kind. She has tremendous range and creates items inspired by sources as diverse and varied as the contemporary rebellious youthful street punk scene, to the elegant era of the court life at Versailles, or the refined Victorian period. She is inspired to new levels of interpretation by each vintage piece she finds. Her imagination seems boundless! She is also a painter.

This photo is of a still life composed (by Marelle herself, of course,) of her handbags, shoes, collars, gloves, compacts, photographs, jewelry, perfume bottles and other objects d’art pouring out of a transformed vintage trunk that has been appropriated for a display presentation of her work for the photographer Mike Burnside when he visited her recently in her in her old four bedroom Victorian house and studio where she both lives and works in a small town in northeast Pennsylvania. I like this photo because it reminds me of a pirate’s chest overflowing with choice vintage treasures!

Marelle’s work is so diverse and extensive – she currently has over 400 pieces listed for sale in her Etsy shop alone ~ that I have decided to introduce her in today’s post, with the beautiful still life photo shown above; and follow up with several additional posts that showcase and describe in depth more beautiful individual examples of her work. In this way I will be able to lead you through an extensive  tour of La Marelle’s Gallery viewing and savoring one work of art at a time.

By the way, La Marelle means hopscotch in French, so Marelle named her shop on Etsy Hopscotch Couture. To visit her Etsy store and view the entire gallery go to: http://www.etsy.com/shop/HopscotchCouture.

Marelle sells her work in her online Etsy shop above and also accepts private commissions. She can be contacted  by email at lamarellegallery@aol.com or by telephone at (443) 825.6353.

Her work can also be seen on her website at LaMarelleGallery.com. There is a link on there that will take you directly to her Etsy store as well.

Read More about Marelle and her paintings and designs in this article from The Weekender at http://www.theweekender.com/stories/Marelles-Hopscotch-Couture-One-of-a-kind-finds,61685

The photo for this post was taken by Mike Burnside from Burnside Photographic, Harvey’s Lake PA,  www.burnsidephotographic.com

Be sure to return to my blog soon to see future posts featuring more pictures and descriptions of Marelle’s work.

 

 

An Esquisite Irish Crochet Dress From The Turn of the Century Featuring Roses and Shamrocks in the Hand Crocheted Lace Medalians

Tuesday, April 24th, 2012

A Linen Dress Featuring Irish Crochet From the Turn of the Century - in its Original Condition as I Found It.

I have just picked up a real treasure. I love finding such lost beauties. With a lot of restoration work it appears to be salvageable. The style is from the the early 1900’s. The embroidery on the linen is known as eyelet embroidery and was very popular at this time. The lace edging on the sleeves and the narrow inserts are crochet lace. This has been confirmed by lace collector and expert Shirley Whitcomb whom I asked to help me identify the laces and techniques used in this dress. She also suggests the lace book suggested below should you want to learn more about lace. I assked her to recommend some sources to me so I could better educate myself as I have suddenly become lace fascinated!

Close Up of an Irish Crochet Lace Medallion

The larger medallion inserts are Irish Crochet that was inspired by the 17th century Gros Point needle lace-like my wedding gown. (I will post pictures of this soon.) Only all of this lace is handmade crochet lace. You can identify Irish Crochet lace by the shamrocks and the multi petaled roses.

Note the Shamrocks and the Roses

An excellent guide to lace identification is “Guide to Lace and Linens” by Elizabeth Kurella. She has written a number of very good books on the subject.To purchase it go on www.lacemerchant.com.  It is so amazing to hold some of the older laces and feel the love and patience that went into each stitch. It is a very under appreciated art form- probably because it was made by women.

The Back is Fastened With Metal Hooks and Eyes and is Pleated to Accommdate a Bustle

This dress has pleating in the back to accommodate a  bustle. There has already been a lot of repair work done at one time in its history. This project appears to have been abandoned before it was completed because the dress is currently in rough shape: unable to be fastened up the back, no hem or fabric left on it for a hem, just a torn and frayed edge where the hem border and fabric about three inches deep was removed

Note the Carefully Repaired Areas Under The Arms! A Sewing Lesson in Themselves!

The areas under the arms have been patched quite expertly and the original hem has been taken out – probably to get matching material for repairing other sections. I will have a lot of patching and extending to do to bring the dress back to life…

Much of the dress is originally constructed by hand and will have to carefully stitched back together by hand. Areas of broken crochet thread will have to be invisibly redone. And the hem will have to be repaired by attaching a new piece of fabric where the original one was cut off and used to restore the underarm areas.

The Bodice Heavily Decorated with Crochet Lace.

Here is a close up of the bodice. These photos are my before photos showing the original condition of the dress when I discovered it.

We will eventually be able to compare them to my restored version when I get it put back together.

To be continued!

 

 

 

A Knitted Kaliedescope of Colored Lace is a Work of Art Hat in Japenese Artist Eisaku Noro’s Fine Art Yarn

Saturday, January 21st, 2012

I am fascinated with the Yarn Art of Japanese painter Eisaku Noro. He hand dyes his yarns which are all organic and made of fibers from silk, through cashmere, wool, cotton, bamboo, etc. He dyes and spins the yarn in small batches all produced by hand – and they are absolutely amazing. I see his yarns, fall in love with one and must make something from them! They can be used any way a fiber artist/designer wants to use them – the sky is the limit and the possibilities are endless. I have made several garments from his yarns and have several batches of it stashed for future work. It comes out in extremely limited amounts so you must get it when you see it.

Kaliedescope of Colors in a Spiral Lace Knit Hat in the Making by Lady Violette de Courcy

Currently I am working on another knitted hat – my first experiment using Noro Yarn in a millinery project. I got the yarn, last Monday, came home and stayed up most of the night casting on and knitting until I had to get a little sleep. I woke up and started to knit immediately until I ran out of yarn! I had put more on hold, but I could not get to the yarn store to buy it as I was snowed in completely, now going on a week! But I cannot wait! I have to show you this as a WIP (work in progress) as I am so excited by the way it is turning out!

I am making this in Noro’s Silk Garden Yarn – a very soft blend of silk and wool. That is not a dark hole on the left side in the brown stripe! Just an indent in the lace prior to finishing and blocking the hat. The crown, which isn’t done yet, will be a round burst of all the current colors on the top in a spiraling snowflake~like shape. I underestimated the amount of yarn needed. In a project like this you never know until you make it. It is hard to tell now, but this again will have a 1920’s ~ 30’s vintage vibe to it when I am finished. And I’ll be adding a special surprise at the very end.

I hope I can get out of the house, off my steep Telegraph Hill like hill and back to the yarn store this weekend. Or early next week. The snow is not coming down now but we are experiencing really high winds. Branches are banging against the house and the trees are weaving and swaying. I can hear branches crunching and breaking off from time to time. This could be worse than the snow has been. Winds are whistling through the house too! When this happens here trees often fall across the roads and they are shut off. There is inevitable loss of electricity in the area as well. This is already up to 4,000 homes now which translates to a lot more people. My power is currently on – but It has failed 4x already. I will not be surprised if we are without power again! In nearby areas it has been out for three or four days and they cannot predict when it will get back on. The wind is so loud and violent it was impossible for me to sleep ~ so I got up and wanted to knit, but I am out of yarn on two current projects!

So I decided to write this blog post instead amidst the whistling wind. I imagine Wuthering Heights was like this. It feels very bleak! And it is dark and drafty and cold! I am feeling really housebound. I’m bundled up in knitted tights, mufflers and cloaks to stay warm and I haven’t been to the grocery store for over a week! The food choices are dwindling! Just like the yarn! This storm is difficult for someone who usually goes to the yarn store as often as she goes to the grocery store! At first the snow was nice, but now everything has turned to black ice and it is very dangerous. School has been cancelled for four days.

I am going to cook some old fashioned oat meal now. I am burning off calories trying to stay warm and I am really feeling hungry!

For more information on this hat in the works visit me at ladyviolette on Ravelry and check back to see this piece when I get it finished. The yarn is by Noro and the lace  pattern I have adapted is designed by Linda Medina. Details, including yarn sources and the lace pattern are available on Ravelry, the social website for knitters and  fiber artists.

 

Lady Violette ~ Erte Inspired 1920’s Style Hand Knitted Cloche With Pearly Vintage Accent

Friday, January 20th, 2012

Lady Violette's Rambler Spiral 1920's Cloche Hand Knitted in Cashmere and Silk

Another of My Recent Creations in the 1920’s Mode is a Hand Knitted Rambler Spiral Patterned Forget~Me~Not Luxury Fiber Flapper Style Cloche Hat With Pearly Vintage Accent. I am currently exploring making and wearing elegant knitted hats as feminine fashion pieces as they did in the 1920’s ~ 40’s. Versus the knitted granola hat destined for the ski slope, skate board park or shapeless grunge fashion accent  There are so many beautiful yarns out now that I cannot resist making something gorgeous out of them to put on my head!

I had to attend a 1920’s themed party so I made this little Erte inspired hat to wear with my blue 1920’s vintage dress of the same color rayon brocade combined with a darker blue velvet. I also wore many pearls so I trimmed the hat with a vintage pearly and blue trim piece that I had. I love the way this turned out! And I am already in process making it in two more colors – a dusky berry and a woodsy brown. I have two other stitch variation in mind to try out as well.This is such a cute shape I want to make several of them in many colors ~ perhaps a full bouquet! I am fantasizing about opening a drawer full of them overlapping each other in a rainbow of pretty yarns in many colors!

I used Sublime Cashmerino Silk Aran 10 ply yarn from England and found the basic cloche pattern in  Sublime’s Aran Hand Knits Books. You can use the basic hat pattern with any stitch variation you like. Like all vintage British patterns this one is written to be knitted flat on straight needles and seamed together down the back in finishing. It fits perfectly and looks adorable on. It required 2~50 gram balls of Aran weight yarn but I’m sure I have enough left over to make a knitted flower corsage to pin on one side of the hat. I think that will make a nice accent ~ instead of the pearl piece – when I want a different look. This is definitely a pretty hat design one can wear in the summer!

It’s still snowing here! And very dark outside! When I have the corsage finished and the snow has melted I will get a friend to photograph me wearing the hat and post pictures of it again. I wore it to the 1920’s themed party and it was a hit.

The pearl accent piece is not a vintage brooch. It is 3 vintage buttons wired together in the back and meant to be sewn onto something as an accent. It is a great idea to wire any number of buttons together to make such a “garnish” which is what I have decided to all it. You could also do the same thing with clip earrings. You can untwist the wires anytime to use the buttons as originally intended too! Such a garnish could be used on a coat, jacket, hat, dress, stole, even in your hair! The idea is probably something women came up with during the mend and make do era when they needed to whip up an embellishment in lieu of a jewel to trim an outfit before going out. It is very clever and a great use for pretty vintage buttons.

You can visit my site on Ravelry to find out more about my knitting and see more of my projects. I am ladyviolette on Ravelry. I post photos of the item, yarn and pattern information there so that you can find it if you want to create the same or similar article. If you are a knitter or interested in knitting I urge you to visit Raverly. It is a terrific resource for people with interests in knitting and crochet.

Lady Violette Design ~ Portrait Cloche in Honor of Edward Hopper

Thursday, January 19th, 2012

I know, you have been wondering where I am and what I have been up to. I haven’t been idle! Here is some of the stuff I have been doing!

I have been working really hard on knitting and designing hats, mittens and gloves over the last three weeks. This is a new discipline for me. I have never made gloves or hats before January 1, 2012! And I made a New Year’s Resolution to do so this year! As I mentioned yesterday I am taking classes in these subjects. And, as it is my best personal mode of learning, I am just jumping in and doing some designs of my own at the same time. I feel ready to share a few of them now. So, starting tonight, I’ll unveil one to show you!

Lady Violette's Design ~ A Portrait Cloche in Honor of Edward Hopper

Voila! I created this hat which I am calling my ” Portrait Cloche in Honor of Edward Hopper.” It is hand knitted of hand dyed 100% alpaca which is incredibly soft and warm. Pure Luxury!

I designed and made it to attend an art museum opening of Edward Hopper’s paintings. I wanted to make a hat in the style of the ones the women in his paintings wore. I also wanted it to look like a proper 1920’s ~ 30’s formed felt hat, rather than a knitted hat so I made it very thick and sculptural with a turned back rim and graduated shaping. I made a very thick sculptural bow to cover the left side of the hat. It comes down over the left ear and has the added benefit of being like a very warm ear muff! You could place the bow over the right ear instead if you preferred to do so.

The Overhead View of the Crown of Lady Violette's Portrait Cloche In Honor of Edward Hopper

This hat is very thick and warm, but I may have to try making one with my trademark earmuff bow on both sides now! I’m thinking of ways to keep even warmer on my 4th day of being completely snowed in! And it is still snowing out! We are in the middle of a huge snowstorm in Seattle and I am taking advantage of using this time to post my designs and knitting projects and related stuff on the knitting website Ravelry! (Honestly, I would rather be knitting!)

I’m really happy with the way this hat turned out. I wasn’t exactly sure of what I was doing as I made it but it is perfect and exactly what I had in mind. I am considering writing the pattern so I can offer it to other knitters who would like to make one, but, to do that, I must make another one and carefully write down the steps as I go. I think I should do it in a lighter color so the details really show up. As usual I kept copious design and construction notes on this one, but nobody but me can understand them! I always work the initial design out that way, then redo it for a final run through and perfection test to be sure somebody else can understand and follow them. I probably should point out that this hat requires good technical sewing skills as well as knitting skills.

I wear this one with a vintage navy blue 1930’s coat in wool gaberdine and a purple wool dress. The outfit is totally inspired by the women in Hopper’s paintings who are always dressed in strong clear distinctive colors. I get a lot of inspiration for my clothing from painters. I like to recreate the moods, styles, and colors of the paintings in the way I dress.

Lady Violette's Portrait Cloche In Honor of Edward Hopper ~ Viewed From the Front ~ Features Deep Sculptural Horizontal Ribbing, a Turned Back Brim for Double Thick Forehead Warmth, & Her Trademark Thick Earmuff Bow

My “Portrait Cloche in Honor of Edward Hopper” also reminds me of Dorothy Parker, the brilliant writer, who also dressed really well. She was known for her feminine suits and adorable accent hats like this one. I just know she would have wanted to wear one of these! Do you English majors out there who are interested in fashion agree with me?

I can also wear this hat with a deep purple wool crossover wrap and tie coat with a big ruffled collar. This is more of a 1970’s look, but also very successful. It looks great with this hat. In fact, once I finished the hat I found quite a number of interesting things in my closet that I could use it with. So many I want to go out! I am feeling so horribly house bound! I haven’t been able to get out to go anywhere since last Saturday night. I’d love to get bundled and dressed up in my purple and blue winter ensemble and go to some elegant cafe wearing my “Portrait Cloche.” As soon as I can get out of here I will and I’ll get someone to take a proper photograph of me in the Portrait Cloche In Honor of Edward Hopper in the right atmosphere worn with the right era vintage clothes. This may still be a few days off as it is still snowing like mad! The airports are closed and the streets are blocked off! My classes have all been cancelled.

We only get snow like this in Seattle once every 2 or 3 years. It is inconvenient, but I also love it! I like the opportunity to stay home because I must and get some other things done. And I love the cold and the whiteness and the excitement in the air that the snow brings with it. A lot of people get very upset about their busy schedules getting interrupted, but I don’t. I see it as an opportunity to slow down and get a few things done that I normally do not have time for. Like making a couple of new hats! And setting up my Ravelry knitting site – which is a hugely time consuming project.

And, of course, get back to posting on my blog. So, back to the blog, as I promised and back to the “Portrait Cloche” : Let’s look at some pictures of it from all angles so you can really see what it looks like.

A Profile Shot From the Right Side of Lady Violette's Portrait Cloche In Honor of Edward Hopper. Here I have turned the hat and placed the bow on the right side and toward the back to show a different way to wear it!

I used Baby Alpaca Grande Hand Dye from Plymoith Yarn to make this hat because I happened to already have two balls of it in the perfect colorway of Blue/ Purple. I had hoped to get the hat and big bow out of one skein, but no such luck! It took about 1 and 3/4 altogether. Thus the yarn for this hat cost $40 plus sales tax! Expensive for a hat! But worth it to me. It is very stylish, warm and soft. Alpaca yarn is very luxurious and not at all scratchy. Even people with wool allergies can often wear it successfully. It is important to select non-scratchy or itchy yarn for a hat. I have made the mistake of using 100% wool that caused my forehead to itch and gave me a rash after a half hour. That quickly ruins the hat I spent hours making for me!

I plan to use the small amounts of left over alpaca yarn to decorate the violet tweed gloves I am currently making with little bows to co-ordinate with this hat. That should be really feminine and appropriate to the era that inspired me. And the gloves will be beautiful with the two ensembles I have described above. Here is a picture of them now as works in progress. I am finding it really interesting to construct them on the tiny tiny needles

Violet Tweed Five Finger Gloves With Bracelet Length Cuffs. This is the first pair of Five Finger Gloves I have ever made!

I am going to try to find another suitable yarn to make a spring/summer version of this hat – hopefully using one ball of a nice looking yarn and costing under $25 to make. I want to offer beautiful patterns that can be made up in affordable yarn. Anybody have any good suggestions? This one needs to be really bulky!

I keep trying to make hats out of one ball of yarn but I keep running out and needing to get a second one. This has happened on the Noro Spiral Beanie hat I am currently making as well. (See my work in progress in Noro Silk Garden in pastel colors and gray. I’ll post a picture of that here tomorrow.)

I am about to begin writing up several of my personal knitting pattern designs so other knitters can make them. I know cost of yarn and supplies is an issue for many people so I am planning to suggest several types of yarns in different price ranges so people have a choice. I am always making new things out of old ones and creating new things out of found fabrics and supplies – so this issue is always on my mind. I’d love to hear suggestions from readers of alternate materials you think would work as well. I’ll seriously consider them.

Lady Violette's Portrait Cloche In Honor of Edward Hopper Folds Flat For Convenient Packing

I will be writing out the design and instructions for making Lady Violette’s Portrait Cloche In Honor of Edward Hopper Soon. When it is done & available I will post it here and on Ravelry. Check back if you want the pattern. We could even do a supervised knit along to make it here on my blog if a few people are interested.

If you are  interested in making this hat let me know.  It is not hard to make. In addition to the ability to read a knitting pattern, you only need  these basic knitting skills:

1) Cast On

2) Knitting,

3) Purling

4) Decreasing

5) Binding Off

6} Sewing a straight knitted seam together in mattress stitch

7) Picking up & Knitting stitches

8) Steam Blocking

About Ravelry. It is a knitting and crocheting social networking website, like Facebook for knitters and crocheters. In order to access it it is necessary to join it, even if you are not a knitter or crocheter or other needle worker. However, it doesn’t cost you anything to join. It is am amazing resource and I feel it is well worth joining even if you  currently simply enjoy looking at what other crafters and fiber artists are doing.

It is also the last word on finding information and sharing your work.  I am ladyviolette on Ravelry.

If you visit me on Ravelry you can view all my current projects in these areas and see pictures and read about my past work in those disciplines.

I’d love it if you come by and see me sometime. So will you, I guarantee it!

 

The Original Description For the City or Paris Goldenrod Hat!

Wednesday, May 18th, 2011

The Lovely Goldenrod Hat From the City of Paris

Goldenrod Colored Fur Felt Midinette Beret Hat from The City of Paris

This is a Goldenrod Colored Fluffy Fur Felt Stylized Beret style Hat made by the French designer Midinette for the grand San Francisco department store, The City of Paris and labeled accordingly. It was made in the early 1960’s. It appears to have never been worn or was worn only once or twice and was stored carefully in a hat box. It is clean and in excellent condition. It measures 21 inches inside the brim circumfrence. Inside the hat is stamped Empress Body made in Western Germany. The brim trim and bow are made of a stiffened knit fabric. There is a lot of elegant hand sewing and hand work on this lovely hat. I worked in NYC for a couture hat designer in the 1990’s  and learned to recognize and appreciate these techniques.

I found that this hat can be worn in at least 20 ways! See all the photos! I was only limited by my imagination. And my imagination was only limited by the fact that I had to get some other things done!

Inside View

I tried the hat on tilting and turning it in every direction I could think of. It is very versatile. For example, the bow can be worn in the front or in the back! It is adorable either way. Or you can position the bow to be worn on the side, tilted forward, up or down – front back or sideways! It can be worn over a French roll if you have long hair, or a bob tilted like a saucy beret. It would be darling over a short haircut too! I photographed the Midinette for city of Paris Goldenrod Hat in many positions and from many angles to give you ideas on how to position it on yourself. I was having so much fun figuring them out! The sky seems to be the limit with this piece! It has loads of personality! And I think it would work for many women of many styles and many ages! From a Gigi Ingenue to a Sophisticated Socialite to a First Lady! I could see it on one of the stylistas in Mad Men with a belted black sheath and matching yellow gloves, or on Michelle Obama with a black pencil skirt and chic silk print blouse! It would look lovely accented with gold jewelry! I would wear it myself as a stiffened high crowned French Schoolgirl Beret – think Madeline of Paris – with black capri pants, red patent ballet flats, and a short  black or yellow or tweed swing coat. The possibilities seem endless!

The ways you can wear this little beauty are only limited by your imagination…I can see the right person wearing it to church with an elegant matching suit or an artsy Bohemian type wearing it to a gallery opening with wide legged pants and long flowing hair………………New images of women in this Midiette Goldenrod Hat just keep popping up in my mind – like flowers popping into bloom in a meadow overnight!

Designer's Label

Incidentally, If you like the Midinette Goldenrod Felt Hat you might also like The Issa of London 1970’s geometric print silk jersey wrap dress I have listed. I think they are darling together and would combine to make a stunning ensemble!

I love vintage clothing and the history of fashion and I have amassed a vast personal collection over the last 20 years. Please check back often as I will be listing many more very special unique pieces over the next few weeks. I am at the point where I have to whittle down as I have no more space! Everything I have collected I have chosen for myself. You can be sure it is very special as my standards are very high. Alas, it is time to edit a bit and pass on some of my things to other people who will enjoy them. I do love to help people assemble wardrobes for life and outfits for special occasions. I have many things to list. It will take some time to sort through them, photograph and get them up. Please be patient and keep checking back. I will be happy to try to find you something unique from the depths of my collection if you have a special request as well. I always enjoy such a challenge. I just love matching a special piece or co-ordinating a costume for a special person or occasion. You never know! I just might have the very thing you are wishing for! Thank You for looking! And please visit again! Lady Violette

For my blog readers, this was the original description I wrote to accompany my listing to sell the hat on eBay for the listing of The Goldenrod Hat. It was accompanied by many of the pictures showing the ways it can be worn which I put on yesterdays blog post! This is how much work is involved showing and selling a used vintage item online!

Additionally you must answer many inquiries and re-list the item several times! I finally sold it at a substantial discount after 9 months! A crazy difficult sale wouldn’t you say? Poor little hat is worth more than all that! And it is such a cute hat! I really do miss it!

The Saga of the Goldenrod Hat & The Trials and Tribulations of Selling Vintage Clothes on eBay

Sunday, May 15th, 2011

The Glodenrod Hat from the grand old City of Paris department store in San Francisco

The Saga of the Goldenrod Hat, the trials and tribulations of selling vintage clothes online ~ on eBay, Bonanza and Etsy, ~ and the love of hats! And, the issue of custom designing things for people!

All of these topics have been churning in my mind lately as I am getting ready to list and try, once more, the daunting process of selling Some of my vintage clothes online!

People ask me all the time, “Why don’t you sell some things on eBay or Etsy?”  And “Why don’t you open an eBay or Etsy store?” or, “Are some of the things you are writing about for sale?  As I am diligently at work getting a series of new listings ready for my online vintage clothing sales venues and the experience of selling the   Goldenrod Hat churns in my mind reminding me to consider why I am doing it because online sales can be a mega watt nightmare! People ask me all the time, “Why don’t you sell on eBay or why haven’t you opened an Etsy store.” Well, I do sell online sometimes, and so far I have done it on eBay and Bonanza. That experience I will share with you below. Then you will see why it is not on my list of favorite ways to spend my time!I have been suffering from eBay burnout because of it! I did it for over a year. Now, however, I have some new and some formerly unsold items so I am  going to try it again, this time on all three venues: eBay, Bonanza and Etsy. It is a lot of work. But more about that later. I’ll write about my new experiences when I get those listings  up. Here is what I have already experienced below.

I am using a blogging theme here, on my blog site. That is a template for writing and posting  blogs. In Web Speak or Blog Speak it is called a theme. There are thousands (I think) to choose from. All with different features – it is complex and mind-boggling! I now call it Mind-Blogging.  I spent many hours going over them, trying to choose one to fit my needs. I actually need to be able to post a lot of text and a lot of pictures. I am not completely satisfied with this current theme. I’d like for instance, to be able to post all the photos I took of the pictured pretty Goldenrod Hat I sold recently on Ebay.

Label of the French Designer Midinette for the City of Paris in the Rim of the Goldenrod Hat

Thinking about both experiences (which include blogging, selling vintage clothes online, and the sale of the Goldenrod Hat) has led me to write about the selling of vintage clothing experience on eBay demonstrating what that is like with photos of the yellow hat.

I wished I could put a gallery of photos up – to show (as an example) many angles of the hat all the ways it can be worn, etc. I have about 20 of them. Instead I have decided to post them throughout this post. It is the only way the blogging software theme allows me to do it, but it will also add interest to the essay. This is an experiment! both in blogging and in writing about the eBay selling experience in this online format.

The Charming View Showing the Bow at the Back of the Goldenrod Hat

I took them to post that hat for sale on eBay. Where I finally sold it, for $60. The Goldenrod Hat that is. Not enough! After all the work I went to and the time it took! It was so much trouble! I had to repost it 9 times before someone finally bought it! That is about a $2 fee to Ebay every time. This is because you have to post it anew every 30 days. I had it up for sale for about a year! Then, when it finally sold, I had to find a clean and attractive box, use new tissue paper, buy all that, pay shipping which ended up being $15 w/ insurance and tracking. (I had under estimated that cost. And shipping fees had escalated – with 2 price increases – during  the time I had the hat listed.) Go to the PO, wait in line, and to top it all off pay eBay their high% commission and the commission to PayPal. The buyer wanted to barter. She wanted $15 off the original list price. It took about 7 emails back and forth to negotiate that. I finally took $12 off, but never again. I had listed it at Buy it Now pricing for a fixed price. That was $72! That means, like in a store, the price is the price. If you want to barter, go to the Middle East! This was aggravating and nerve racking and unpleasant! Conflict! The buyer wants to “get a bargain” and enjoys the breaking the seller down process – the seller is offering a total treasure for an already fair price and would like it to be left at that. The process becomes terribly unpleasant for the seller. (It is insulting!)

The Versatile Goldenrod Hat Can be Turned and Worn Tilted With the Bow in the Front!

Many eBay buyers enjoy playing a game with sellers which is the game of whittling down prices to the max, just for the thrill of doing so or seeing if they can. A Buy it Now Listing is an offer to buy it at a certain fixed price. It is not an auction starting price. Nor is it an opening barter price. I, as the seller, price an item at, let’s say, at $15. So, just like a department store. The item has a price tag on it and that is the price. Period. This is explained very clearly on eBay. Apparently there is a certain class of people who shop on eBay can’t read very well!

I was so frustrated in dealing with this customer and all the other people who had dinked me around on this particular hat, which had nearly sold 9x ,that I finally just sold it to get it over with. I was tired of dealing with it. Honestly, I feel insulted when I have to deal with this type of buyer. It is hard. They want to dicker, they have fun with that, it gives them a certain high. I know that, but I find it a drag. For the seller, you guys, this is no fun at all. But eBay buyers are usually very cheap. They want to feel like they are getting a steal. I am not selling steals. I am selling treasures. Period. If I own something it is special. If I post it for sale it is unique, in very good condition and rare. I price things very fairly. If a sale went smoothly and quickly it would yield me a bit of a profit or allow me to rotate things in and out of my collection, If it is as much of a hassle as it is it isn’t profitable, or fun and therefore isn’t worth the trouble it takes. It turns out to be a burn! This is why many eBay sellers have quit – over eBay burnout. But only one of the many reasons. eBay has also made all their policies favor the big box type of seller over the person with a few unique items.

Or Jauntily Tilted with The Bow on One Side

I owned this lovely hat for several years before I sold it. Now I wish I still did. After I have gone through all of this! I got to know it far more intimately during the eBay/Bonanza selling process and now, during the blogging process. Thus I am telling you this story. In brief, believe it or not! Really!

Now I really miss my Goldenrod Hat! It makes me sad! I’ve wanted to wear it several times and I don’t have it anymore! Tears! I can only hope the person/people who bought it , a woman who referred to themselves as we – (I wondered if she were writing/speaking in the royal plural?) – her tenses switched around in a confusing way just as I have demonstrated here – like or likes it as much as I do. This is always hard, usually impossible, to know once an item is sold and out of my possession.

BACK TO THE GOLDENROD HAT!I had it posted on Bonanza as well, also for 9 months. So, when I sold it on eBay,  I had to take that Bonanza listing down which was also sad as thhis hat had been selected for featured picks many times and thus was featured on the homepage of the Bonanza site and got written about by the other sellers and the visitors to the site over and over again. They liked the color and the style and the story and the pictures… It also led people to my site as a result. it was doing me more good on a PR basis than selling it! Live and learn.

In Profile: The goldenrod Hat Jauntily Tipped Down with the Bow in the Front & Tilted Up in the Back

By the way, – you, as a seller, – are allowed to list things concurrently on Bonanza and eBay and any other sites as well. Yes, all at the same time! You just have to take them down if you sell it on another site. Not a problem. It is so hard to find a potential buyer out there that you have to list items in as many places as possible. And yes, I do know how to use the search engines. Note, it took me 9 months to sell the Goldenrod Hat  that I had listed on two major auction sites and featured on Personal Picks regularly. I had good visibility, such as one can maneuver to get it on both eBay and Bonanza. It just took that long for a buyer who could finally make a decision to move on it to do so. That is the life of selling vintage pieces on eBay. It is very slow!

This particular piece was chosen many times by other sellers to be featured in personal Picks so it shows up immediately looking very desirable when anyone logs into the sight. I have an item featured on personal Picks almost all the time because of my appealing photos and high quality merchandise. But take note! It is the other sellers who select the the merchandise to be featured on personal picks. Not buyers.

DURATION: I began selling on eBay and Bonanzle a year ago. Over the last year, I have sold about 50 of my prize vintage items on Bonanza and eBay and I actually totally regret  it every time! Here is why. I lose the piece I sell. I do not make enough money to benefit from that, it takes me way more time than I end up being compensated for when all is said and done. And it just isn’t worth the time investment and the aggravation. The money I make barely pays the costs of maintaining the sites and the fees involved and I have to use funds from other sources to cover those some months. There are fees and commissions every step of the way. Shipping is expensive. I do not think the USPS postage service would even manage to be in business anymore if it were not dealing with online buyers and sellers.  You have to figure in the cost of the containers too. It just keeps adding up. I recycle as much as possible but I always ship attractively. I don’t want someone buying a pretty vintage dress and receiving it in a dreadful looking wrapper all wrinkled and torn. In the buyers mind shipping is part of the cost of an item. In the sellers mind it isn’t because the seller receives none of that money. It all goes to the carrier service that gets the item to the buyer.

A Complete Turn Around! Back in Front Dramatically Tilted Over One Eye!

To post and sell an item on eBay you have to put up an excellent well researched description, take and post an entire gallery of beautiful photos, deal with the immense amount of time it takes to set up the listing so it looks very appealing, and then, once it is up, inevitable tweak it a few times as problems with the listing and eBay or Bonanza tend to occur.

Then you have to wait, and wait and wait for a buyer, meanwhile you have inquiries you have to answer – almost every day – from flakes who have no intention of ever making a purchase but want to write to you and chat because they haven’t got a life! I have found that the person who usually ends up buying an item either has written me with a quick shipping question or has been able to come to a decision on his or her own and make the purchase. There is an entire subculture of buyers out there who just like to write back and forth.

Then there is one of the biggest aggravations of all! Waiting for and collecting their payments! I can realistically say that 50% of the buyers I get do not follow through and complete the sale! They tie up your merchandise, causing you all sorts of work to try to collect, deal with eBay to do this (there are complex rules that must be followed,) wait the alloted very long time (it is weeks actually) before eBay will allow you to re-list the item, get the fees they and PayPal charge for the un-consumated transaction taken off your account (this requires many emails and phone calls and hours of time per situation.) Now it is common to see notices “Bid only if you intend to pay!” posted on sellers sights. This is because there have been so many instances in which a buyer commits to buy and doesn’t ever follow through. It may sound negative to read such a posting but, if you had been through the process of selling and experienced the non paying sellers you would understand the reason for it.

The Options Are Seemingly Limitless! A Side Bowed French Beret!

When the hat or other item has finally been sold and some money from that is in my PayPal account, it is mostly eaten up by my monthly Inkfrog fees, and my eBay fees. And my PayPal fees, etc. I am not able to sell a lot on eBay. I do not have a lot to sell and I do not have the time it takes to nurse maid the sites and the possible potential buyers. Mostly it is the aggravation factor that I don’t have time for. It is terrible.

eBay CONTINUED : I never sell by auction anymore, that was a total bust, I sell only on the Buy it Now program where I set a fixed price for my listing so I can be sure to get some money for the item. At first I was all excited about the prospects of doing auctions on eBay, and I studied up on it, did it and lost big time on every item I posted that way. It was an awful experience! eBay buyers are notoriously cheap. They want to pick beautiful things up for a song. Like $500 brand new designer blouses in perfect condition with their tags still on them!  for $9.99. eBay encourages you to list an item such as that that way, in order to instigate a buying frenzy – you know the theory of how auctions operate, and they teach you that method will encourage bidding to start and continue to a fair market price! What a line! It doesn’t. For the first two months I sold I listed things on auction, the first two times using their advised low entry price method, and when I got terrible burned on that (actually selling the $500 blouse for $9.99 – stab me in the heart!) and about 10 more similar transactions, I changed to a starting bid of the lowest amount I would take, and for a month, that is all I sold the items for. I did list to properly utilize their search engines. I did a tremendous amount of research. I talked to a lot of other sellers who are selling vintage clothes. I found that all of them are having similar problems. The old timers told me eBay has really changed in the last couple of years. It is a very hard place to sell our type of merchandise now. Seasoned sellers who had been doing it for 10 years or 7years, etc. advised me to list items on Buy It Now for a fixed price, so I moved over to that and stuck with it.

Crisply Bowed in Back!

Crisply Bowed in the Back

Buy it Now! listing is the only way it is even barely worth the aggravation involved. You have to list at a fixed price and renew the listing every 30 days if you don’t sell it and want to keep it on the market. Now buyers are watching something for 3 months. Waiting to see if it has sold. If it hasn’t they contact you – after a listing has expired – wanting to circle around eBay and avoid paying your fees included, in their minds, as part of the price.  eBay doesn’t want you to do this, understandably. They want their commission from the sales, not just the listing fees. They get both. Many buyers practice fee avoidance. They wait for a listing they like to expire and contact you, the seller, right after it does so asking for a discount of $15 or so from the listed price. This happened with the Goldenrod Hat! The buyer, true to their pattern of behavior, contacted me the very day the listing expired offering $15 less than the asking price. I told her – “I still have to pay eBay their commission because you found me and the hat while I had it listed there.”  This is true.

The hard cold fact of the vintage clothing selling online world now is that you have to put an item up as if putting in a store for sale and wait for the right person who wants it to come along. This can take months! Maybe even years. It is a waiting game. The right person has to find the right dress or hat at the right moment!

I have been amazed that normal stores, like Nordstroms and Neiman Marcus, JC Penny’s, and Sears, (note my fair range of types of stores and price points used for comparison) can list an item of clothing for sale and use only one photo and sell it for a good fair price. While, on Ebay, you are expected to take and post 15 excellent photos to sell a vintage one-of-a-kind spectacular piece for a song. I realize they are Nieman Marcus and Nordstoms and JC Penny’s and Sears. and I am just little bitty Lady Violette, but my quality level is as high and higher and many of my items are as special and definitely more unique as they are rare and often one-of-a-kind. I also realize that I am selling antique and vintage and pre-owned and pre-used items, but I am extremely selective. People who buy something from me off my eBay or Bonanza sites are going to receive very nice items and the prices are very fair. If you are interested in taking a look go there, What do you think? It is pretty interesting.

Classic Profile ~ I Can Imagine A Girl in a Film Wearing this Hat in All of the Many Ways I am Demonstrating ~ and Becoming Known for That!

MORE SPIN OFF FROM THE GOLDENROD HAT LISTING EXPERIENCE :

The Goldenrod Hat came from The beautiful City of Paris grand San Francisco department store, now closed. When I was selling it I met an elderly lady who had shopped there, in a doctor’s office waiting room, who told me stories about that store. Including about the delectable treats served in the elegant mezzanine dining room. Those were the days in which women got dressed up to go downtown to shop and have lunch or tea, wearing gloves and hats and carrying beautiful handbags that matched their shoes. They dressed to be seen, to show off their elegant outfits or “getups”  as my mother called them. It was one of the main venues for doing that. You would go to lunch and try to get a good table to position yourself to see and be seen. The hosts and waiters knew it was their job to provide that strategic seating element, and they would be well tipped for doing so. What you wore that day would prove to be very important socially. You would meet your friends, your rivals would see you. Your costumes would be analyzed and gossip ripped to shreds, Your photo could very well show up in the paper, and hopefully some man like Cary Grant or Gary Cooper would just happen by. You know! Like in the movies… Anyway, I ended up with the recipe from this lady, for the City of Paris Dining Room’s Creme Brulee! She had asked the maitre d’ for it and gotten it just before the store closed down. I intend to make it soon and if it is great, which I expect, I will post it here for everyone to try!

Sophisticated and Stylish With Hair French Rolled in the Back

Dressing up to go shopping in those good old days was a performance art. Ladies planned carefully what they would wear, what handbag they would carry, which handkerchief, mirrored compact, shoes and lipstick would properly set off their outfit. They dressed to be looked at. They had their hair done and wore makeup and jewelry. This truly was their performance. Their version of an appearance on the stage by a broadway actress. Church was a similar event. These were socially important venues where you met people in the old days.

ADDITIONALLY, the GOLDENROD HAT EXPERIENCE LED TO THIS!

The buyer, asked me if I knew of anyone in NYC who could do custom hat designing for her! And, fortunately, I said, “YES!”  I did. That person was my old friend, Mindy Fradkin, now married and named Mindy Fradkin-Mousaa, but also now known, professionally, as Princess WOW! She used to predominantly design and sell beautiful couture level hats to private clients and high end shops. She also worked as a professional photographic shoot fashion stylist. she also designed hats for women to wear to The Kentucky Derby! and many other noteworthy events.

The Interesting Interior Structure of This Handmade French Couture Hat

She also was a talented entertainer and comedienne and showed her hats at events called Hat Happenings! She was known as the Mad Hattress! these were often held in places like the ultra-elegant Barbizon Plaza Hotel, (Yes! the one that Eloise lived in!) Mindy would dress up in wonderful costumes and wonderful hats and entertain the guests and, at the same time, end up taking orders for custom design hats. At that time her hats were sold under her then label, Mindy Fradkin, Important Hats! and she was also known as The Mad Hatress of Hat Happenings! She also did a comedy act, with her hats, in night clubs. She would use the hats to change characters. She was very good and very funny and triste! at times, and it all fit together marvelously. Mindy was a force of nature!

Over the years Mindy’s personal and career emphasis changed from predominantly promoting the wearing of hats because they are charming and fun, to predominantly entertaining and social consciousness raising work. she has become known as Princess WOW! and she still wears hats all the time to aid in promoting her causes, but she puts most of her time, effort and energies into her other projects. I have blogged about them, but please look back over the last few weeks of postings to see what they are about. And see links to these at end of this blog post/article.

I contacted Mindy/Princess WOW! for my eBay buyer, and put them in touch with each other. They are now involved in the complex back and forth give and take negotiations of the eBay buyer discussing with the milliner artist/designer the making and purchase of a custom design couture level hat. A one-of-a-kind hat creation. This is going on and on and on. Same as the transaction I experienced selling the same woman The Goldenrod Hat that led to this interaction. She/we can’t decide quite, she/we wants pure white, not off white, She/we will send a deposit at such and such a date, she/we has to change that and postpone to send money until the 26th of February.

The very busy Princess WOW! has sent the eBay referred buyer many photos of the kinds of hats she does. (She can make anything.) And written many very tactful and patient emails back and forth. – still no money has been exchanged, No actual order has been taken. This has gone on for over a month! It took the buyer 3 weeks to buy the Goldenrod from me.

The Glodenrod Hat is Made of Real Fur Felt ~ It Looks Very Rich and Soft ~ It is Shiny and Very Lush Like Silky Animal Fur Which Essentially is What it is Made Of!

I did not really expect her (mysterious eBay buyer of the Goldenrod Hat) to follow through, but she finally did. She dinked around, then called Princess WOW! back a month later. As they sometimes do! So I have explained all this to Princess WOW! And advised her to take the order and fill it if she receives a deposit, but not to put anymore effort into it until that transpires. Wow! lives an hour outside of NYC now. She will have to travel into the city to get supplies for making this white special order hat – only one, mind you, – and also, once it is under way again to take it to the blocker! It will require a lot of time and a lot of effort not to mention her expertise in making the hat. Her hats now are custom creations, she does them for private clients with whom she has experienced completely reliable follow through. She cannot economically, afford to be dangled along like this. This is the problems one has as a custom designer. The clients can be very high maintenance. It is OK once you have an established relationship. LIke MIndy has had with me for many years, but some supposed potential buyers are so bizarre and indecisive that they aren’t even worth working with! Ever! Under any circumstances.

I asked Goldenrod Hat buyer what she did. She told me she was in the medical profession. Princess WOW! asked her what she did, and she finally admitted she was working on a movie and she wanted the hats for the actress to wear in a film. She explained the reason for her delays by saying, “We only have $300 in her hat budget this month. But next month, on exactly the 26th at exactly 2PM I will be able to make a $120 deposit. Until then I will not be able to be reached by email.” This was to be toward a $300 hat.

$300 is not expensive for a hand made one of a kind hat custom made! It will take 16 hrs to make and, additionally, 2 or 3 trips into the city which take up to an hour each way. Princess WOW! told the buyer she had worked on movie sets and costumed films in the past and knows what is involved. WOW! is the most sympathetic and understanding person, but this buyer was so weird! Finally, after 2 months of talking about it it became impossible and WOW! had to tell the eBay buyer she could not do it for that price. WOW! decided it wasn’t worth her trouble at any price. And it isn’t.

Divinely Couture, Uniquely Chic!

I AM THE PERFECT HAT CUSTOMER: I figure out what I want. I look at her collection or supply her with drawings or photos of what I want. We discuss and decide and I place an order with a deposit. If I need to do so – to help her speed up the production process – I supply some of the materials, such as fabric or netting or flowers. Each case is different. I pay the balance and shipping as soon as I am notified that the order is filled and ready to ship. I receive my hat a few days later, Everyone is happy. I now own over 20 of her hats. I wear them often. I have written articles which were published in NY about my experiences wearing them. I will soon post these on my blog. I have been over 100% satisfied with every hat I have ever bought from MIndy Fradkin Important hats, now/ Princess WOW! I have never had a single complaint or even the slightest misgiving. She delivers! But, I must add, I know exactly what it is like to be on her side of the drawing board! Why? Because I am a designer myself and have been through the exact same types of things that she has with the customer/client interaction processes! I design and sell jewelry and clothing. In fact, that is how we both met, Princess Wow! and Lady Violette We met when we were both presenting our designs at Henri Bendle in NYC in 1992!

THAT IS HOW TO BE THE PERFECT CUSTOM ORDER/COUTURE CUSTOMER!

WHY DO I LIKE COUTURE? WHAT IS IT ALL ABOUT?  –

A Couture Hat by Joe Bill Miller Originally $400 ~ Listed on Bonanza & eBay for $85 ~ a Real Bargain!

It is about the unique experience. And the process, I like the uniqueness of the pieces. The custom designs and the colors, the fit, how well made they are, how I can make or have made an item that is a true work of art suited just to me. I love special unique, beautiful things. I am one! After all. And I embrace this fact 100%. The things I make and sell are not meant for everybody. Nor are Princess WOWS! I have most basic things I need. Beyond that it is about self expression! Dressing beautifully is an art form. By doing so we are able to bring pleasure to ourselves and others. I embrace this.

A Garden Party Extravaganza I Had Listed on eBay for 9 Months Without a Nibble! It's Spring so time to Try Again! It's Absolutely Beautiful in Person!

I am an artist and this is one of the ways I choose, as such, to present myself. and I greatly enjoy seeing it in other people, too.

BACK TO THE GOLDENROD HAT: FULL CIRCLE to THE CIRCLE OF HATS FRIENDS –

I had not spoken with Princess WOW! for quite a while when I got the request to from the eBay Goldenrod Hat Buyer to refer her to a custom hat designer. She wanted to know if I knew someone who could make her something extra special to order. She lived in NYC in Chelsea and wanted someone nearby. I’m in Seattle, on the West Coast, but somehow I am the only person she knew of to ask. In retrospect I am now wondering whether or not she may have gone through  all the hat designers within a 100 mile radius of her home and work!

A Gorgeous Hand Made Designer Hat of Italian Straw Designed by August ~ Prettier Than any of the Royal Wedding Hats! ~ Also Exquisitely Made ~ $400 New ~ and I Had asked Only $95 on eBay!

We reconnected at this exact moment only because of her request. I’d had Princess WOW! in the front of my mind and I had a box of vintage clothes to send her sitting in my hallway. But that is always there, – interesting suitably WOW! items I am collecting. I seek out unique items for her and other artist friends. eBay buyer of Goldenrod Hat asked me why I do this? And what kind of vintage clothes? I replied, “I know her style and I like to do this for her. It is what I do as an artist. And it varies as to kind.”  She didn’t ask me any more about it.

Well, Princess WOW! and I talked on the phone. She was in a huge whirlwind of promotional activity and high pressure performance schedules. In fact had a concert coming up in about 10 days and nothing exotic enough to wear for it that had not already been seen. I had just the thing – sitting in my box of costumes for her – a bright hot pink Indian Silk Sari Tunic and Harem Pants outfit with massive amounts of colorful metallic embroidery. I knew it was perfect. I offered to send it right away. And I did. It was perfect. It got worn for that performance and it was a huge hit. And it fit her perfectly. I know these things. This is my area of speciality. She knows this and knows she can trust me.

With a Profusion of Hydrangea Blossoms and Striped Grosgrain Bows! Again, I Tried to Sell it on eBAY and, After 9 Months Took it Down Due to Lack of Interest!

I sent that Sari and several other great things – Bright beautiful vintage silk scarves covered with bright flower prints. Quite a few of them. A flowered vintage chiffon negligee, a lacy green camisole, etc., several pairs of gloves. A great box of beautiful items.

While all this was getting done, eBay buyer of Goldenrod Hat was looking at many slides Princess WOW! had sent her showing pictures of her work and hemming and hawing over whether should she do this or get that and in what shade of white, etc. Nothing was actually getting started. Because she hasn’t been able to make a decision. This is a bit embarrassing to me because Princess WOW! was only willing to take her (the eBay buyer of my Goldenrod Hat) as a client because she was referred by me. And because I am her good client.

I Love the Over Head View of this Romantic Confection! I See Wearing it with a Brown Silk Dress With Fluttering Sleeves and with Huge Pink Polka Dots On It!

Unfortunately referring a flake to your custom designer is bad for you as a client. You have to be careful. It can negatively impact the relationship you have with your dressmaker or tailor or hat designer to refer a person to them who wastes their very valuable (financially) time and causes them unneeded aggravation. I am really quite worried about that in this current situation, Princess WOW! and I have discussed it. She is irritated about it. It is a touchy go so to speak. I am unlikely ever to do business with eBay Goldenrod Hat buyer again, but should she turn out to actually start buying Princess WOW! could, or could have, picked up a decent client. We have no way of knowing this in the beginning of a relationship with a new buyer.

Here’s why….Right now eBay Buyer of Goldenrod Hat and an unknown entity that emails with her and is included in the “we…….” references she makes write “we are unable to email or send any deposit until Feb. 26th.” Who’s we? She is the only one on her eBay acct. her PayPal acct. or her email. It is either her partner of some sort, (with whom she makes all fashion and spending decisions) or it is she alone speaking in the royal plural. This round about indirectness is bugging Princess WOW! (I know from personal experience that it is a totally typical of eBay buyers style stall. ) All I can do is tell WOW!  that and advise that she came through finally for me and paid and I sent the Goldenrod Hat. I think, based on my personal experience dealing with eBay buyers, that she just wants to wait until the end of the month to plunk down any cash. So, all we can do is wait it out.

BUT NOW I HAVE A PROBLEM:  Trouble is: I now want to order another hat. Princess WOW! has informed me, via royal decree, that, in order to consolidate her time, she wants to produce both hats – my new one and the one eBay Buyer of Goldenrod Hat may order – into one supply shopping trip and one production episode and one trip to the blocker, so she can make up both orders and ship them with one trip to the shipper at the same time. As a designer I totally understand this requirement. And I am willing to wait, but, the truth is, suddenly, this eBay Buyer of Goldenrod Hat is holding things up for me. I am having to wait longer for my order! And who knows how long. this person I do not even know, for whom I did a favor, is influencing, and to tell you the honest truth, slightly fucking up, my life!

A Designer Hat by Toucan Soon to be Offered For Sale by Lady Violette in One of My Shops ~ It Has Not Been Listed Yet & it Will be Interesting to See What Happen ~ It is a Really Lovely Hat Actually!

NEXT EPISODE; While eBay Buyer of Goldenrod Hat is dilly-dallying around, I have caught up with Princess WOW! on a personal friend basis, and finding her extremely busy and in desperate need of help I have jumped into my old role of personal assistant, designer and stylist with her.  I have gone into full gear and run around as a stylist and assembled and sent her a costume she has worn in one concert performance to positive acclaim. I have shipped her several boxes of accessories, and fabrics from which to construct hats to wear with her costumes. Additionally, I have designed from scratch, and made her, from the bottom up two more complete original concert ensembles. These are two evening length dresses/concert performance gowns that I have designed, drafted and constructed from the ground up. I have had numerous shipping trips to fabric stores and sewing accessories shops, and I have bought the shoes, stockings, and underwear that are to be worn with the costumes. I have designed and made the very elaborate jewelry to wear with it. And I have designed and procured the makeup she will wear with it. When Princess  WOW! gets her costumes from me she will open the box and everything she needs to put on and make up for her entrance onto the stage through the entire performance with several co-ordinated changes will be right there. All pre-assembled and ready to put on and go on with the show. The costumes are made to measure, hand beaded, and sequined, they are expertly designed, assembled and sewn – a couture creation from the get go. And they are one of a kind originals. They are also designed and made with the special needs of performance kept in mind. So they are comfortable, she will be able to move in them, and they will not come apart, etc. Everything that needs to be taken into account for her special performance need will have been considered. Needless to say we have had to send several emails back and forth to check measurements and such. But, because we know each other personally, and as clients and designers this is working out well.

Handmade Ribbon Flowers and Leaves

While talking about her sewing and clothing needs I was told about everything else going on her life and found out that she needed a letter of reference written to help her procure a grant, so I did that, The grant was granted. Amazing! good news! Then, she had me look at her Princess WOW! blog and Facebook sights, She needed help.And I flew into action. I studied the things already up, figured out what she needed done, cleared it with her, had her make me an author, and wrote a few blogs to put up to co-ordinate her sight. We have posted those an d have more in the works. She needed them up by yesterday and tomorrow, We did one on Valentine’s Day. We made it a day early! This is feeling so good! I co-ordinated all this activity with launching my own blog this two months ago. Thus we are able to run pertinent posts concurrently. A lot is happening!

Today, Princess Wow! just happened to ask me, in the middle of this flurry of activity, “What has happened with eBay Buyer of Goldenrod Hat? Have you heard from her? ” I had to say,  “No, I  havn’t. And we will undoubtedly have to wait to hear from her until she said she would call you next.”  WOW! said, “I just don’t get it, how anybody in this day and age can even be in business and not go online every day. That will be 3 weeks from the time she last emailed me. ” That is right, it will! and it remains to be seen whether she will ever get back to either of us. It is very rude, but she probably doesn’t realize this or see any of it in the way it effects us, that is, in the way her online shopping habits effect the artist/designers through the ultra slow trickle down to the order and the deposit and the payment way – finally, if ever, to the artist! I can bet you she is cluelessly ignoring the way this is effecting us.

Double Sided Burgundy Velvet Ribbon Band Woven Through the Felt to Decorate

Thus, I decided to write a blog post about the process. So that eBay shoppers such as the Golden Rod Hat Buyer might finally realize how they influence the market.

I myself have not posted any vintage items for sale on either eBay or Etsy over the last few months, but I have been getting a few more ready with the hope of selling some beautiful prom dresses and shoes and elegant little purses and accessories this Spring. To be honest, experiences like dealing with eBay buyer of the Glodenrod Hat and several other difficult ones have dampened my enthusiasm for listing and selling beautiful vintage treasures online.

I simply had to take a break! However, I am gritting my teeth and plan to try it again. I have been photographing and writing descriptions for listings all week. I have about 30 items just about ready to post.

Artists and designers are not bad business people. Just the opposite. They are excellent business people in my experience.

As a Seller I Have to Think Carefully About What I Choose to List Because it Costs Me to Offer the Item for Sale. Things can be Beautiful ~ Such as Many of These Hats, but if They Don't Sell You Lose Rather Than Make Any Money! There is No Telling What Kind of Things Online Vintage Clothing Buyers Want! It is Completely Random! Totally Unpredictable!

FULL CIRCLE OF HATS FRIENDS: The only good that has come from the sale of my Goldenrod Hat on eBay transaction so far is that I have reconnected with my old design friend/comrade Princess WOW! and we are working together again. I am happy about that. I wanted to fill in the Goldenrod Hat Buyer. I had no idea what she did as a career. So I asked, and found out she is employed in the medical field. I asked if she loved hats as we do and if she collected them, and I got a rather round about answer. I sort of understood that she sort of did and sort of didn’t. It was a vague non-commital answer! I told her, via email, that I was immediately starting a new hat group, a group of people who were committed to hats, hat-making, hat-wearing and hat-history. I told her I was doing it right here and now because we had all connected and she could be included if she wished. I included her because she was the reason that Princess Wow and I had reconnected. I added her name and address to my founders notice letter. It now included, Me, Princes WOW!,  and the eBay Goldenrod Hat Buyer. Princess wow! was excited. She jumped up and down at the opportunity! Yeah! So was I! the Princess said, “You must contact Opera Singer Client of MIne. She will want to be included. She is the second biggest collector of my hats after you! ” So, I contacted the Opera Singer and she did want to be included. I also made friends with her. I am now full tilt ahead enthusiastic about having started this new Circle of Hats Friends, but It is only for the committed. It is not for dabblers.

Every Listing is a Complete Gamble as to Whether There is Someone Out there who Will Want to Buy It! You Just Never Know!

I have to determine what to do with the eBay Goldenrod Hat Buyer person. She didn’t voluntarily join my circle. I offered to join her into it as a cool courtesy. I don’t think she appreciates this. I am going to proceed to make the circle a professional entity. This week. I have a wonderful picture I want to use with which to officially initiate it. It is a great photo of me, smiling, wearing a Garbo nautical style hat that was designed and made for me by The Princess of WOW! when she was known as Mindy Fradkin: Important Hats. It is a perfect wave to the old company and salute to the new one of my new hat enthusiasts circle. This will be a professional circle – an organization of designers and artists committed to the art of the hat from the design conception through its production through the act of wearing it. We must promote hats. In all directions. I am a writer, a dancer and a jewelry and clothing designer and a hat model,  Mindy is a designer, and entertainer, the Opera Singer is a stage performer who wears the hats. We all wear the hats in our work and as fashionable women. We are not alone as you can see from the Royal Wedding a couple of weeks ago! I was not enamored of most of the hats worn there but I am glad that they all had to wear hats per Royal decree. (Yes, it is required!) I like Kate Middleton’s taste in clothing and hats, but her wedding guests were another matter! ‘

Online Selling Seems to REquire Many Pictures of the Item From All angles ~ Unlike a Store's Catalogue Where 1 Photo is Sufficient!

I can see including a few photographers who like hats and like to photograph women in them.  The Circle of Hats Friends is for people who are serious about the wearing of hats  and the promoting of wearing hats. You can look forward to seeing a lot more about hats on this blog in the future!

I was initially bothered by the Ebay Goldenrod Hat Buyer issue. In no way did I want to kill my friend’s possible order of a hat. But now, since both of us have found her to be much too difficult to work with and decided not to work with her any more I decided it was fine to write about her to show how and why some buyers are impossible and selling online is not always a pleasant or smooth experience. ( I am not mentioning her name of course. )In every way online selling of vintage clothes is way too labor intensive for the money you make. Example: You have to take and post 8 photos of an item from every angle to sell it for $12! Versus a store like Nordstroms has to post only 1 picture in order to sell the same item at 10X the price! Each Photo has to be pretty good too – as if Avedon took it! I generally post way more photos than are really needed to be sure to cover my bases.

I have finally decided that it is necessary to teach buyers how to buy! And how to be good buyers. Companies fire customers who are too much trouble to deal with all the time. This makes it obvious that some training needs to be done on the behalf of designers, sellers, and customers so that people better understand each other!

The buyer of the Goldenrod Hat is a great example of buyer nuttiness. I feel that buyers need to understand this so they don’t act like that! Princess WOW! and I have discussed the fact that we need to inform buyers what is expected and teach them how to be good customers. Everyone involved will benefit from that! The hat designer or dress designer is an artist. She wants to please the client but must have the co-operation of the client to make a beautiful garment and have a good experience with great final results all the way around!

ABOUT SELLING ON EBAY, ETSY and BONANZLE

Ascot Worthy Don't You Think?

Everything I choose to buy and sell and list is in beautiful condition, immaculate, often carefully and expensively cleaned, and restored if necessary to make it as pristine as possible. Everything I have listed and sold and will continue to, when I do it, is top quality. I only buy for myself. I do not go out to buy stuff to sell on eBay , Etsy or Bonanza . Everything I have collected I own because I wanted it personally for myself. I would never have acquired it in the first place had I not really loved it and knew how beautiful and special it was. Therefore I am only offering things for sale because they are up to my own standards which are very high!

The Ever Important Label

I select things to list for sale from my own personal collection. I am completely different than the people who sell their mother’s and grandmother’s treasures that they have inherited and don’t appreciate for whatever they can get. (Thus insulting their mothers and grandmothers in my opinion! ) In fact I have a lot in common with those little old ladies who originally owned the stuff! If your mother or grandmother would have liked it, I probably will like it! And that brings me to size. I said little old ladies. Vintage clothing is usually quite small. It usually only fits women up to a modern size 4 or 6. Rarely do I ever see it in large sizes. This limits me to buyers who are small in stature, like vintage, like high maintenance clothing and accessory objects and are willing to take care of it. I am highly specialized! And I only ever have one of something, so far! This is not the way one makes big profits in this day and age. You have to sell in volume at low prices to profit now, most of the time. Look at Target for example, Nordtroms, Macy’s. Walmart. I am definitely not that!

Oops! Time to insert another picture so you don’t get bored reading this! Doing so also will show you how many for darn sake! photos I have to post of each item. Lots, huh!

This is the Amazingly Lovely Straw Hat by August Once Again!

I know some people who sell on eBay shop for new old stock, They go around and find locked up warehouses full of never sold or worn merchandise from say 1920 or 1930! Would I ever love to come upon such a thing! However, I do not have the resources to buy it at this time. I should mention scarcity. The kind of things I own are extremely rare. And are getting more and more so as they have gotten older and as people have sought them out. So the source’s are dying out. There is less to be had. Thrift stores have raised their prices to astronomical levels for items of terribly low quality. They have come to think that they should get the same prices they are under the allusion sellers receive on eBay. So they jack up the prices. It is common to see a very dirty old coat full of moth holes, with torn lining, no label, stains on it, missing buttons and so dirty no one would want it, in a thrift store for $29.99. I am tempted to quote Maria von Trapp in the first act of both the play and the film version of The Sound of Music. Maria, who apologized, when she came to Baron von Trapp’s home from the convent seeking employment caring for his children,  on the dismal state of her dress. She said that the clothing she had been given to wear by the nuns was so shabby, “Even the poor didn’t want it.” That is one of my favorite quotes. This can be seen in the beginning of the movie! It is worth watching it for. She was immediately given several adorable drindls to wear and looked very pretty. This must have helped the Baron to fall in love with her. Looking pretty always helps to kindle romance, Right?

And Here is the label to Show that it is Authentic!

There has been only one benefit from selling on eBay and that is some of the people I have met. I have met some very interesting sellers who have shared their experience with me. And I have had a few buyers who have been really cool and funny and made selling to them a good experience even though I didn’t make much or any profit. I have received a lot of compliments on the high quality of my listings. And for my photos. It is nice to hear that, and that, partly, has influenced me to start blogging about vintage clothes because I want to benefit from people reading what I know about the genre and seeing the photos I have taken of all these beautiful clothes. I think the efforts I have gone to in writing about them and documenting them will benefit more people this way. And I think I will benefit more from the blogging experience. Hopefully I will build up a good following of people serious in the genre of vintage clothing and the history involved in it who enjoy reading what I write and studying the pictures. I can write about more things too which I will enjoy because I feel it is all integrated.

I have also been asked about the hand sewing – millinery sewing techniques I mentioned,  were used in making the Goldenrod Hat. As far as the sewing techniques: You can see them in my other Goldenrod Hat photos. I am going to try to get them up later today.

Such a Beautiful Hat! there were times in History That a Woman would Have given Just About anything to Have A hat Like this! How Lovely it Would Have Been Worn With an Empire Waisted silk Dress in Brighton in One of Jane Austen's Novels! During that time Your hat Was Important Because it Got You Noticed! !

Such a Beautiful Hat! There Were Times in History That Such a Hat Would Have Gotten You Noticed!

Please realize that the formant of the theme I am using does not allow me to post a big thematically presented gallery of photos. Thus I decided to post the many angles of the Goldenrod Hat throughout this article to add illustrations and give a thorough “picture” of the hat.

You see? How intimately I have gotten to know that hat? And how my involvement with it even though I have sold it, continues to grow? Because I have written about it and used it to describe all that is frustrating about selling vintage clothing online! I am actually sorry I sold it! I really miss it now! I have gotten to know it so very very well! I posted it for sale because I hardly ever wore it. With all this activity surrounding it I have become more fond of it! I have wanted to wear it several times since I no longer have it! At least I have the photos I took, but alas, the hat no longer! It is a real work of art in every way and I feel sad about having let it go. I do know this though! Had the person who bought it been easy to deal with, appreciative and nice I would be happy to have sold it to her!

Goodbye Goldenrod!

I honestly wish my lovely little Goldenrod Hat from the grand City of Paris San Francisco Department Store had gone to a new owner who loved and valued it as I did! Hopefully it ends up being worn by an actress in a film who compliments it and enjoys it and wears it well. If I were the costume person who located it for this purpose I would have sent me the seller, a photo of it modeled by the actress and a nice note! The eBay buyer who ended up with it has not done so. She has eluded to Princess Wow! that it is for a movie, which is why I have concocted this possible scenario in my head!

If she really is a costumer for films she should be building relationships with vintage sellers of unique items for her future needs. That is how I would be doing it!

 

 

 

 

 

People Keep Asking Me How I feel About the Royal Wedding

Saturday, May 14th, 2011

No Comment!!

My friend Lavande Lamour sent me this today and it sums up my feelings quite succinctly!

Royal Wedding Hats and Royal British Style in General!

Saturday, May 7th, 2011

I fianally had a bit of time to look over magazines and review the royal wedding last night! And look carefully at the wedding guest’s much talked about Royal Wedding Hats. I have always been a great fan of hats, so I was interested to see what the fuss about all the guests hats was about! And I actually hated the hats! Yes! I hated them. Here’s why:

A hat should flatter a woman’s face and body, not detract from them. All these hats did the exact opposite. They took over. They  looked ugly and ridiculous. They made mockery of the women who wore them.

A hat should never distract and detract from a person. It should only enhance her. You should always see the woman and her face and naturally remark on her over all beauty, not just gasp in horror at the gaudy or distasteful hat she is wearing.

In contrast the bride and her sister really stood out because we could see them, their faces, their hair. The ridiculous hats served one purpose. They made the bride and her sister stand out as having good taste and restraint. If this was the plan it certainly worked!

I own a good collection of beautiful flattering hats. Not one would make me look ridiculous! I would never wear a hat like any of those wedding guests wore. It is more than possible to get an attractive hat. It is amazing to me that all those people with all the money they had to spend collectively managed to look so terrible! Poor taste was on display. A parade of it unfortunately. It did give the press something to talk about!

For the rest of my life it will make me think twice about what I ever put on my head! I’ve always been careful of this, but this royal wedding hat fashion fiasco will make me even more so! The British have always been world renown for their poor taste in formal attire. Take note of the head to toe pastel ensembles the queen always wears! They are always dowdy and frumpy and in incredibly bad taste. She is famous for this style! I never liked Princess Diana’s choices or taste in clothes either! Her wedding dress was awful! As was her trademark haircut. And the style she later grew into never appealed to me either.

The casual normal manner of dress worn by Kate and her sister Pippa is a modern refreshing change. Let’s hope it lasts.

 

 

 

Grace Kelly in Vintage Furs with Flowers Charmingly Demonstrates Dressing Appropriately For Cold Spring Weather While Still Looking Like it is Spring!

Thursday, May 5th, 2011

 

Also Adorable

Exquisite Fur Stole & Flowers!

My favorite - Fur Coat & Spring Hat!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It’s supposed to be spring! Pretty spring fashions – that means pastels and flowered dresses are featured in every shop. Flowers are blooming, but it is so cold out it is hard to get in the mood to wear them! I have a closet full of vintage coats – several furs, a few stoles, and short fur capes and cashmere coats with fur collars. All pretty and feminine. Many in soft spring colors like champagne and pale blue, ecru, pearl gray and beige.

I love vintage furs, especially the coats from the 50’s and 60’s. They are well made, full enough to fit over suits and full skirted dresses, flattering and above all, warm! I absolutely hate being cold. I do not feel pretty or attractive when I am frozen.

The other day I was reading about Grace Kelly and the author said she always dressed weather appropriate which meant warm enough to be comfortable. That made me like her and respect her fashion sense even more than I did already. So I decided to see if I could find some pretty examples to emulate. And, Voila! I did! Here are two of my favorite photos. Aren’t they exquisitely romantic?

I imagine she is wearing a pretty spring dress or suit ~ that matches her hat ~  under the cozy fur coat. She looks warm, lovely, feminine and happy! Because she isn’t cold! I am inspired to dress this way for the next few weeks. Probably until the Fourth of July the way it is going around here! A quick check of the weather worldwide tells me it is the same in a lot of other places ~ Vienna, Paris, London, Moscow, San Francisco, New York, Tokyo and Seattle are all cold today and it is May 5th!

I don’t know when these two pictures of Grace were taken, but they look like April in Paris in the 50’s to me. I do know the one on the right, in the fur coat, was taken after she became Princess Grace of Monaco. And that is all the explanation I need to be inspired by them! From now on I say furs worn with flowers as accessories are in for spring! The dainty gloves are charming too and serve the purpose of keeping your hands warm. And I love the hat with the flowers cascading over her forehead.Dressing like this epitomizes fashion as a feminine art. Just lovely!

 

Great Green Felt Vintage Hats for Saint Patrick’s Day

Wednesday, March 16th, 2011

Green Vintage Hats for Saint Patrick's Day!

The Irish love hats. And I love wearing a green felt hat on Saint Patrick Day. Being of Irish decent and having red hair and green eyes I learned long ago that this was a huge hit! Walk into any nice restaurant and bar in your charming green hat and every man in the establishment offers to buy you a drink and dinner. Men love these green hats. And the women who wear them on Saint Patrick’s Day! The one on the glass head is a “Daschette” by Lilly Dache. The one in the back with the two covered buttons is by Stetson for Women designed for Maier and Frank in Portland Oregon. The plain round one is a fur felt beret by Tosca of Italy. It is plain and simple alone or can be easily adorned with a clip or flower from your own collection. All these hats are from the 1950’s. Christian Dior advocated adding a clip to a plain hat to personalize it. The Daschette with it’s black ribbon is undoubtedly inspired by the cloche hats of the 1920’s. And would be adorable with a black flapper dress and a cacoon style black satin coat, matching green tights and black low heeled shoes. In fact, I think that is what I will wear tomorrow! With a long strand of green flapper beads as well! There is a painting by Edward Hopper in which a woman is sitting in a restaurant wearing just such a green cloche hat. I distinctly remember her hat! I will try to find that painting over the next couple of days and post it so you can see her hat. I often find good inspiration from paintings and drawings for how to dress!

Christian Dior on Hats in 1951 ~ “Now We Come to the Most Pressing Problem of This Time. Shall You or Shall You Not Wear a Hat?”

Friday, March 11th, 2011

Hat from Spring 2011 Dior Collection

“I think that in town you cannot be really dressed without a hat. It is really the completion of your outfit and in another way, it is very often the best way to show your personality. It is easier to express yourself sometimes with your hat than it is with your clothes. Hats are important!

A hat can make you look gay, serious, dignified, happy – or sometimes ugly if you don’t choose it well! A hat is the quintessence of femininity with all the frivolity this word contains!

Women would be very silly not to take advantage of such an efficient weapon of coquetry.

And with hats it is the same as with handbags and your clothes – always select the best possible materials.

In the winter velvet and good quality felts are lovely and very versatile and you can get wonderful, rich colors in those materials.

Fur is lovely, too – and besides being warm a little fur hat is very feminine. If you cannot afford a fur coat but yearn for a little something fur for cold days, then, by all means, have a fur hat!

The line of a hat is just as important, too, as the line of your frock. Too many hats are just  “shapes” cluttered up with numerous decorations in the form os feathers or flowers. If a hat has a good line it will still be attractive without any trimmings as all.

Equally when you have a hat with a good line don’t clutter it up with a bunch of flowers you suddenly have a whim to wear!

For summer, little silk or straw  hats are very nice – and I purposely say “little” because they are much more convenient to have than big ones. You quickly tire of having hats with enormous brims and except on very still summer days  they are difficult to wear elegantly – you do not always want to be holding onto the brim!

Of course on the right day and for the right occasion – like a garden party – nothing is nicer or more provocative than a really big hat, sometimes covered with a profusion of flowers.

For sport or in the country, I do not very much like hats – unless rain wind or strong sun draws them back to their original use which is to cover the head.”  From the entry on Hats in Christian Dior’s Little Dictionary of Fashion published by Abrams in 1951

As Lady Violette I am delighted to see that Christian Dior used  the term important hats! And that he says a hat is one of the best ways to show your personality. And he goes on to say that hats are the quintessence of femininity and are such an efficient weapon of coquetry!

A Charmingly Veiled Cocktail Hat - Spring 2011 Dior Collection

The hats pictured are by John Gallianos for Dior 2011 Spring – just before his firing! Too bad! He was and still is a brilliant designer!

See my next post for a Dior hat in an ensemble designed by the master himself.